Hey all..Well ultimately i will be pulling the motor in search of a coolant leak, hopefully to only find a bad or popped freeze plug..

history is hear in these two threads if interested:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=we287gn



https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...t=freeze+plugs

I have done a quick search here in the forums, but havnt really cam up with much internal stuff yet..

with 160+K miles i would love to slap a rebiuld on it, but financially its not in the cards, and we are hard up for transportation..(wifes car went through a puddle recently and pulled water in through the intake, now the motor is hurt)..
at minimum, i am thinking rear main seal, front seal on tranny, pulling the oil pan, cleaning, checking pick up screen, changing all freeze plugs for brass(suggested)
1. any thing else besides these small things i should address?
timing set, timing sprockets, dont really know much about this 4.6

2.also i have the intake off already from checking the heater pipe, my haynes manual states i need the intake removed to pull the motor. can anyone confirm this???

3.also i do not seem to have any tabs or brackets to hook a chain on to pull the motor, on other motors i have just bolted the chain to the heads, but that was on all cast iron jobs..any special place i should be lifting by??

thats all i can think of for now, again to all those who have helped out so far, thank you so much

this site has been a great help, cant wait to get it running again

Chris

 

Well, got my lift, have the engine stand, air tools ready, going to head out and pick up some freeze/core plugs in hopes thats all my problem is.

giving a little bump here in hopes to catch any info before pulling the engine this weekend
thanks
Chris

 

I've heard the freeze plug behind the pass side - head has been known to give way, also where the block heater plugs in , drivers side towards the back - not much help , that's all I know..

 

Hey jbrew, thanks for the reply,
ya the side plugs are dry, i wish it was the plug on the backside of the head, although not sure how easy that would be to change with the head still on?
Chris

 

Chris, Send me an e-mail with a phone number. I think I can set you up with a set of hangers and bolts that would make it easier for you to pull the engine. Yes it is better too have the intake off for engine removal. If I was you I would think about changing all the exhaust manifold studs while you have the engine out.

 

Thanks for the offer, if i get stuck i will hit you up..ok, i already had the intake off so i guess thats a good thing..my exhaust manifold studs look very bad, i will add that to the list ..thanks
Chris

 

Ok, i didnt get as far as i wanted this weekend, only had this afternoon..

managed to pull everything except, TC nuts and oil cooler line, but other than that she is ready to pull..
as i was starting to pull off the TC inspection cover ...,,, out dropped one of the rear freeze plugs...son of a gun.. this is a good sign, but i am not getting happy till i see the rear of the block..
along with new main seals, tranny seal, pan gasket, i guess i am adding manifold studs to the list.
i lucked out on the manifold to pipe bolts, they were so rotted they were as skinny as a toothpick, they would have broken at any point soon, i was able to wack at them with a big screwdriver and crack em off, ..Lost the starter solenoid stud, but another thing that would have eventually given electrical problems with the rust and corrosion..so not the worst things in the world to be repalcing because they would have given problems very soon, now it will all be fresh..
since i am dealing with the TCC shudder i am thinking bout replacing TC as well, but will post that in the tranny forum.. man this 4.6 is wide, quite interesting setup..
thanks
Chris

 

We pulled the 4.6 out of mine on saturday (goin back with a 5.4). When you start to pull you will see why the intake had to be removed. You also need to pull the radiator and AC condensor, also taking the steering shaft loose and getting it up out of the way will be helpfull.

We had to pull the motor up and torward the front and let it back down and reset the chain so it would turn almost straight up and down to rotate it up and out, you won't believe how small the opening is for pulling it out. It may be different on yours mine is a 2000 model, wish we could have pulled the upper core support but it is part of the inner fenders. We are most likely gonna go ahead and pull the core support and fenders to go back with the new motor then just put everything back together.