Considering it's the first time I've replaced plugs on a RWD V8, it's not that bad. I figure if I could replace the clutch on a FWD car this couldn't be too bad. I anticipated requiring a variety of different extensions and wobbles but it turned out that I only needed 2 different lengths of extensions and 1 wobble. That's ok, you can never have too many tools.

I went ahead and loosened the fuel rail because I can't imagine pulling out the COPs without bending and folding the wires. I didn't know if they were going to be delicate or brittle and didn't want to risk it. Since I let the truck sit overnight there was barely any fuel leakage. For the most part the fuel rail sat where it did but I just lifted it out of the way or twisted an injector when it was in the way.

If I remember correctly only 2 of the plugs required the wobble, the rest were practically straight shots. The 3rd plug in on each head were the tricky ones. Lots of anti-sieze, di-electric grease and about 2 hrs later I was done. I can probably do it quicker next time but you folks who can do it under an hr are badasses.

I noticed my old plugs showed signs of running lean, are there any common problems that could cause that? Truck isn't pinging or overheating.

One final note; although I've always known the differences between Japanese and American vehicles it was very obvious while replacing the plugs. Things are easy to work on with American cars. Pretty much straightforward, although the obvious RWD/longitudinal configuration of the motor helps out. Japanese cars have much higher detail engineered in. I noticed a handful of hoses and wires that are in constant contact with other things, which after 85K miles have caused wear and rubbage. No wonder we get coolant/vacuum leaks and whatnot. I have never noticed this in my prior Japanese vehicles where everything is safely tucked and routed away from everything else.

All in all, it wasn't that bad and I'm hoping to improve my 13 mpg.

 

Form what i`ve read here,,most of our trucks run a little lean from factory...as for stuff rubbing..that is one reason i want to do a dressup kit on mine...

 

Just my frikking luck.

Truck started misfiring worse than when the dealer washed under the hood. So after about 100 miles of smooth driving it's acting up.

Looks like I'll be buying new COPS and replacing them very soon.

 

You don't have to replace all of the COPS unless you want to spend $450.

 

I just bought a set off of ebay for $96. They just came in today. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

$12 a piece?

 

What type of plugs did you use? These motors are *very* picky about their plugs.

 

Holy cow, these engines are really picky like you say, both with brand of plug but probably install technique. I knock on wood mine's still mint, was pretty easy too, except #7 and 8, a bit tricky. Good thing it's over 100k before she's due again.

 

OEM Motorcraft which I then gapped to spec. I'm giving the Ebay COPs a try since I've read a few forum members here have had good luck with them. I had a gut feeling that I should've replaced the COPs when I replaced the plugs.

BTW the misfiring in addition to the cold weather has really made my MPGs drop.

 

Apart from my '99 VW Golf, I've had to insulate or re-route wires or hoses to avoid rubbing....

I usually keep a few offcuts of heater hose or old ones, to split and place over the offending parts, using cable ties to hold them in place if necessary.

The braided fibreglass sleeving found in high temperature electrical applications like heaters and coffee makers works well in hotter areas (I've seen it used from the factory around EGR parts) but it doesn't take to rubbing as well. I suppose high temperature silicone would work too, say just a dab of it if you don't mind how it looks, and it'll work like a low-strength adhesive to keep parts together.

 

Yeah, Kevin (@ Global Automotive) sold out a couple weeks ago - He's been selling close to a year now..

He was selling F150 kits over the summer (8 Motor craft Platinum Plugs/8 COP's) For $130.. I'm not sure if he's offering the package deals at this time. Last I seen , he's re-stocked and is selling 8 COP's for $96... - Like "cavo" said above..

I ran his COP's for 2 months and they worked great - (I swapped those out for a new set with bolts from a Romeo Crown Vic crate motor for $65 - OEM) - I didn't notice any difference in performance and I know of 2 Super crews that's been running them for about 7 months without issues. Quite a few people on this site run Kevin's COP's..

 

lol yes they are, mine gave me headaches repeatedly with autolite plugs.

now i stepped up to iridium, less hassle so far and it's passed the usual 10k mark the other plugs gave me hell at.

 

Same Here - Autolites lasted 40 miles - I received misfire codes on the way to work and barley made it home - Those things heated up and turned six different colors lol... Funny, Autolite makes Motorcraft Plugs..They even look the same..



Bocsh Plugs - Worse - real bad!!

Thru Motorcraft in there and she was golden again - I've heard good reviews about Iridiums.. I also heard these motors like NGK's (trying these next).. So far the only fail safe plug for my truck , is the OEM Motorcrafts..

 

I've got 13K miles on Denso Iridium plugs without a hiccup so far.

 

i just installed the troyer ignition package for the 4.6. msd coil packs, accel wires and denso plugs. Truck idle's so much smoother and at 600rpms on the dot. MPG's i dont know yet. My alternator died and i was getting horrible milege when it died. Computer was reset again. So i need to wait a bit.