Cleaning The Idle Air Bypass
#1
Cleaning The Idle Air Bypass
My 4.6 has been making a wierd noise and its sounds like a humming. The humming went away when i gave it gas or was running at any rpm abouv idle. Hence why i went strieght to the idle air bypass. I found it was making the noise s oi pulled it off. It looked real dirty and all crudded up. Is there a way to clean it up or do i just have to bite the bullet and go buy one for $70. Somebody online was disscribing a filter in the back after you took of the sensor. How do you get it apart?
#4
I use "Deep-Creep" made by Sea-foam, it cleans and lubes at the same time.
If it's real bad - use brake cleaner(or carb cleaner) and compressed air (shot of B-Fluid -then blow that crap out of there) first , then Deep-creep or WD40
Move the components by hand(small pair of needle-nose) to free them up good.
Look closely for any deposits on the rod itself (usually black) - try to get those without scoring the rod and she'll idle smooth - reboot the PCM after(You should have the neg. off anyway before performing this procedure)
If the "Rod" is too f'ed up (pitted) or other , you need to replace. I still have my stocker- has 206,000 on it lol..
Another note: I don't use gaskets on anything above the lower intake - gaskets leaked(even new ones, on mine), I checked w/propane. I now use "Permatex RTV High heat silicon" Black, cures faster and no leaks.
If it's real bad - use brake cleaner(or carb cleaner) and compressed air (shot of B-Fluid -then blow that crap out of there) first , then Deep-creep or WD40
Move the components by hand(small pair of needle-nose) to free them up good.
Look closely for any deposits on the rod itself (usually black) - try to get those without scoring the rod and she'll idle smooth - reboot the PCM after(You should have the neg. off anyway before performing this procedure)
If the "Rod" is too f'ed up (pitted) or other , you need to replace. I still have my stocker- has 206,000 on it lol..
Another note: I don't use gaskets on anything above the lower intake - gaskets leaked(even new ones, on mine), I checked w/propane. I now use "Permatex RTV High heat silicon" Black, cures faster and no leaks.
Last edited by jbrew; 01-11-2007 at 10:30 AM.
#7
No, but take that off anyways to clean, also clean the elbow it bolts too. Throttle body cleaner works good, with a toothbrush. The IAC will work good probably till this time next year or two years but at least you'll know it works. After cleaning the truck may idle funny, wait for a bit it's normal. Mine would idle then raise a few rpms, say 150-200 then back down. I didn't disconnect the battery also so probably do that to avoid any issues. Keep in mind that cleaning just prolongs the enevidable, a new one costs around a hundred bucks or so (cheapest) I've heard about.
Oh ya, be careful taking the IAC bolts out and remember that there is a gasket, don't loose them, be careful.
Oh ya, be careful taking the IAC bolts out and remember that there is a gasket, don't loose them, be careful.
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#8
I've clean the TB with TB cleaner. Had it working for a while before it started again. I then did a little more reserch and found out about the IAC. Went back in with some TB cleaner and was going to remove and clean the IAC. I must not know where the IAC is. I thought it was on the right hand side of the TB attached with two brass looking screws. I unpluged the wire from it and tried to turn the screws be couldn't get them to move. Started to strip the head of one so I stopped. You say that it has bolts. I know jbrew shows a pic of one off the TB already. Are there any more pics out there? Thanks for all your help! Trying to keep it away from the dealer $$$!: eek:
#9
Only the 97 is on the side. I posted a pic of the 2000,(in the back) just 4 threads down from yours , here click on the link to see were yours is -
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=268079
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=268079
Last edited by jbrew; 01-11-2007 at 02:55 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by Keith Hudson
I've clean the TB with TB cleaner. Had it working for a while before it started again. I then did a little more reserch and found out about the IAC. Went back in with some TB cleaner and was going to remove and clean the IAC. I must not know where the IAC is. I thought it was on the right hand side of the TB attached with two brass looking screws. I unpluged the wire from it and tried to turn the screws be couldn't get them to move. Started to strip the head of one so I stopped. You say that it has bolts. I know jbrew shows a pic of one off the TB already. Are there any more pics out there? Thanks for all your help! Trying to keep it away from the dealer $$$!: eek:
#13
#14
Originally Posted by jbrew
If it's real bad - use brake cleaner(or carb cleaner) and compressed air (shot of B-Fluid -then blow that crap out of there) first , then Deep-creep or WD40
#15
LOL - WD40 don't last long enough to gum up - work great for loosing up the components , I blow it out with air , it does two things - frees everthing up and when you put the air to it it forces lube into areas you can't reach - been doin it for 206,000 miles ..Just common sense needs to be used , like dialing down the pressure.