Starter removal on 1997 4.6
#1
Starter removal on 1997 4.6
Hi,
My starter went and have had a heck of a time trying to get it out with all the rust and corrosion that has accumulated. I finally got both bolts out and the sucker would not budge. I gave it several good wacks figuring it should pop right out. I looked to see what could be stopping this thing from comming out. A THIRD bolt?? You gotta be kidding. I've replaced many starters over the years and NONE of them had 3 bolts. So I tried to get it out and I can't even get a socket on it or to it. Is there a trick to this without removing the exhaust manifold?
Thanks
My starter went and have had a heck of a time trying to get it out with all the rust and corrosion that has accumulated. I finally got both bolts out and the sucker would not budge. I gave it several good wacks figuring it should pop right out. I looked to see what could be stopping this thing from comming out. A THIRD bolt?? You gotta be kidding. I've replaced many starters over the years and NONE of them had 3 bolts. So I tried to get it out and I can't even get a socket on it or to it. Is there a trick to this without removing the exhaust manifold?
Thanks
#3
But you need a universal which I used but because of the angle and length the socket pops off with the slightest torque. It's almost as if someone has to press against the extensions to stop them from moving laterally. I've got an air impact wrench to get the bolt off. But I can't keep the socket on with the angle I'm working with.
#4
#7
I had the same problem with the starter on my 96 thunderbird about 3 years ago
That top bolt on the 4.6L's starter can be a PITA. When had to yank my starter the top bolt was ceased in. Two broken extensions, a broken socket, numerous messed up knuckles, the use of a torch, and the use of a buddy's way smaller hands who also ended up with some battle wounds, the top bolt finally came out.
That top bolt is in a really cramped space. I like many others didn't put that top bolt back in. I just put the other 2 in and used lock washers on them.
Thats what I had to do with that. Almost 3 years later those 2 bolts are still holding fine so when you put it back in don't even waste your time with that top bolt. It's a very common thing to leave that top bolt out at least with the thunderbirds
That top bolt on the 4.6L's starter can be a PITA. When had to yank my starter the top bolt was ceased in. Two broken extensions, a broken socket, numerous messed up knuckles, the use of a torch, and the use of a buddy's way smaller hands who also ended up with some battle wounds, the top bolt finally came out.
That top bolt is in a really cramped space. I like many others didn't put that top bolt back in. I just put the other 2 in and used lock washers on them.
Thats what I had to do with that. Almost 3 years later those 2 bolts are still holding fine so when you put it back in don't even waste your time with that top bolt. It's a very common thing to leave that top bolt out at least with the thunderbirds
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#8
#10
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 9,417
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Try doing it with long tube headers. Chase the threads on the tranny so the top bolt can be tightened by hand. I use a deep socket and a 3 inch extension to get it started and finish with a short socket and a 6 inch extension. Once you have done a few you can do it with your eyes closed. Keeps the dirt out.
JMC
JMC
#11
Originally Posted by keith97xlt
i have to disagree.put that top bolt in, pain in the *** but just think you will probably never deal with it again. starter coming loose will always happen at the worse time.
#12
Originally Posted by azreael344
OK see thats why you put the lock washers the 2. Again 3 years later.....has never showed any signs of coming lose and I abuse that car like a red headed step child......... 2 bolts is fine
Yes it is a PITA to R&R. Creative use of extensions and u-joints (duct or electric tape around a u-joint limits it's floppiness!) is the ticket to success.
#13
#14
#15
I take off the wheel and remove the plastic inner fender liner.
Then i can sit on the garage floor and remove the bolts real easy. the inner fender well is held in place by 5 phillips head screws and 3 plastic retainers. it takes about 5 minutes to remove it and asnother 5 to reinstall it.
I use a 13 mm flex socket on a 18" extension (the extension is a $3 piece of Taiwan crap that i have been using for the past 15 years, not a Snap On heirloom). I rest the extension on the frame to remove the top bolt.
I live in AZ and regrease the planetary gears in the starter about every 2 years because the grease dries out and the gears start to rattle.
the whole job takes less than a n hour including cleaning the gear drive and regreasing.
removing the fender liners also makes changing out the O2 sensors real easy. I did both in 45 minutes and had all my tools cleaned and put away. by doing the sensors this way the sensors can be removed with a 22 mm box end wrench or 7/8" box end.
Then i can sit on the garage floor and remove the bolts real easy. the inner fender well is held in place by 5 phillips head screws and 3 plastic retainers. it takes about 5 minutes to remove it and asnother 5 to reinstall it.
I use a 13 mm flex socket on a 18" extension (the extension is a $3 piece of Taiwan crap that i have been using for the past 15 years, not a Snap On heirloom). I rest the extension on the frame to remove the top bolt.
I live in AZ and regrease the planetary gears in the starter about every 2 years because the grease dries out and the gears start to rattle.
the whole job takes less than a n hour including cleaning the gear drive and regreasing.
removing the fender liners also makes changing out the O2 sensors real easy. I did both in 45 minutes and had all my tools cleaned and put away. by doing the sensors this way the sensors can be removed with a 22 mm box end wrench or 7/8" box end.