Fuel Pressure Relief...
#1
12-30-2006, 02:59 AM
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Fuel Pressure Relief...
So I decide to replace my fuel filter before driving back up to Chicago from Orlando since I have no idea if I'm still running on the original. I yank the kick panel and disconnect the switch. I start the motor and let it run for a few seconds until it stalls out. I pull the clips and insert the fuel line quick disconnect tool anticipating what Haynes describes as "fuel spillage" when I disconnect the lines... I got hosed from face to waist and this was before I even pulled the line off the end of the filter. Yeah... my girlfriend thought it was pretty funny considering I had just gotten out of the shower ten minutes before saying "I won't get dirty; it's a ten minute job". "Fuel pressure relief"... relief as in humor... haha get it? 
#2
12-30-2006, 03:24 AM
LOL - Been their done that , But didn't shower first , geezz
Sounds like you did something with the Inertia switch
Y? Is this some new procedure I haven't heard of??
Anyho - The "Schrader Valve" is what releives the pressure.. (on mine anyway) - It's located on the fuel rail and looks kinduh like a valve stem you use to fill your tires.
First pic has the tools used - Releive pressure with the fuel presser guage(it has a releif valve on it) - Or you can wait for awhile and the pressure will bleed off itself - newer vehicles take longer tho.. Also , in the pic -that blue tool is the filter tool I used..
2nd pic is the schrader local - at the bottom of the green line on top of the chrome fuel rail is the schrader valve - you can't see it in the pic.
Sounds like you did something with the Inertia switch
Y? Is this some new procedure I haven't heard of??
Anyho - The "Schrader Valve" is what releives the pressure.. (on mine anyway) - It's located on the fuel rail and looks kinduh like a valve stem you use to fill your tires.
First pic has the tools used - Releive pressure with the fuel presser guage(it has a releif valve on it) - Or you can wait for awhile and the pressure will bleed off itself - newer vehicles take longer tho.. Also , in the pic -that blue tool is the filter tool I used..
2nd pic is the schrader local - at the bottom of the green line on top of the chrome fuel rail is the schrader valve - you can't see it in the pic.
Last edited by jbrew; 12-30-2006 at 03:28 AM.
#3
12-30-2006, 03:25 AM
#4
12-30-2006, 03:29 AM
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#5
12-30-2006, 03:32 AM
Originally Posted by Neal
HI!... Before you tried to unhook the fuel line fitting, you should of released the residual fuel pressure at the shrader valve on the fuel rail. It looks like a tire air valve. It's on the passengers side of the engine in the middle of the fuel rail. 
He already new!! That sucks , he coulduh said that a little sooner.
Last edited by jbrew; 12-30-2006 at 03:40 AM.
#6
12-30-2006, 08:08 AM
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#7
12-30-2006, 08:21 AM
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#8
12-30-2006, 08:25 AM
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#9
12-30-2006, 08:50 AM
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#10
12-30-2006, 09:31 AM
On the V8 - Just make sure you bleed the air - On the shrader after bleeding the air initially - that still doesn't relieve ALL the pressure and you'll still get a bath. Make sure you take off the gas cap..Important ( :
Listen , because this is the safest way or I wouldn't be posting it. After you bleed the shrader valve, stuff a rag underneath and unscrew innards of the shrader - inside the stem , if you don't, well, your getting another bath, that's no bull. When your finished just check out the rags.... Just because someone else's lines are crap and don't hold pressure, doesn't mean that yours won't. 200,000 miles on my truck, I changed mine many times and took allot of baths before learning the best way to stay dry. Some people love to give bogus info, you have to be careful..
If you have a pressure guage, use a pair of vise grips to hold the bleeder valve in, while your changing the filter - that works too.
you'll still get a little fuel so be ready , but this will be gravity fed, can't get away from that. Gas Cap first, Gas Cap first....( :
If you have a rag ready in the frame rail, you may prevent a drop from leaking on the floor lol - if you lucky haha
Listen , because this is the safest way or I wouldn't be posting it. After you bleed the shrader valve, stuff a rag underneath and unscrew innards of the shrader - inside the stem , if you don't, well, your getting another bath, that's no bull. When your finished just check out the rags.... Just because someone else's lines are crap and don't hold pressure, doesn't mean that yours won't. 200,000 miles on my truck, I changed mine many times and took allot of baths before learning the best way to stay dry. Some people love to give bogus info, you have to be careful..
If you have a pressure guage, use a pair of vise grips to hold the bleeder valve in, while your changing the filter - that works too.
you'll still get a little fuel so be ready , but this will be gravity fed, can't get away from that. Gas Cap first, Gas Cap first....( :
If you have a rag ready in the frame rail, you may prevent a drop from leaking on the floor lol - if you lucky haha
Last edited by jbrew; 12-30-2006 at 10:17 AM.
#11
12-30-2006, 10:14 AM
Senior Member
Originally Posted by jbrew
On the V8 - Just make sure you bleed the air - On the shrader after bleeding the air initially - that still doesn't relieve ALL the pressure and you'll still get a bath.
Listen , because this is the safest way or I wouldn't be posting it. After you bleed the shrader valve, stuff a rag underneath and unscrew innards of the shrader - inside the stem , if you don't, well, your getting another bath, that's no bull. When your finished just check out the rags.... Just because someone else's lines are crap and don't hold pressure, doesn't mean that yours won't. 200,000 miles on my truck, I changed mine many times and took allot of baths before learning the best way to stay dry. Some people love to give bogus info, you have to be careful..
If you have a pressure guage, use a pair of vise grips to hold the bleeder valve in, while your changing the filter - that works too.
you'll still get a little fuel so be ready , but this will be gravity fed, can't get away from that.
Listen , because this is the safest way or I wouldn't be posting it. After you bleed the shrader valve, stuff a rag underneath and unscrew innards of the shrader - inside the stem , if you don't, well, your getting another bath, that's no bull. When your finished just check out the rags.... Just because someone else's lines are crap and don't hold pressure, doesn't mean that yours won't. 200,000 miles on my truck, I changed mine many times and took allot of baths before learning the best way to stay dry. Some people love to give bogus info, you have to be careful..
If you have a pressure guage, use a pair of vise grips to hold the bleeder valve in, while your changing the filter - that works too.
you'll still get a little fuel so be ready , but this will be gravity fed, can't get away from that.
#12
12-30-2006, 10:21 AM
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
C'mon jbrew,i'm a big boy.......i know you're taking shots at me;I can handle it.And,you're correct,there will be a bit of fuel spillage,either way,relieving the pressure or not.Sure,I get a bit of fuel on me,but I can still replace my filter in 5 minutes or less.This is my 3rd F150 in the last 14 years with this type of fuel filter and in these 14 years i've become very good at replacing them! At first,I did relieve the pressure.But,it took too long.So,now I just wait about 8 hours or more and dive rite in.Try it sometime,you'll see!
I do it the same way you do , I just posted the safe way. Yuh got me -
We know when to duc, they don't..
