3-valve Heads On 2-valve Block???
#1
3-valve Heads On 2-valve Block???
HI!... With the truck being down for the winter, I been playing with some ideas to possibly do. O.k, I'm new to the 3-VALVE set-ups on the newer 5.4.
My question is : Can a set of new 3-valve cylinder heads work on a 2-valve 5.4? I would think that they would physically bolt on. Just curious if Ford changed any of the coolant/oil passage locations? I already have a 5.4 , 3-valve complete intake manifold but would probably custom fabricate one from aluminum to fit my needs. Now I know the cam phasers are on the 3-valve heads. Can I remove the 3-valve cam gear and install a 2-valve cam gear? Will they bolt up to each other? If not, can I delete the cam phasers and run it like a normal 3-valve head just like a 2-valve head would operate? I just like the flow #'s on the 3-valve heads 300CFM intake and 215CFM exhaust for stage III heads, compared to my FOX LAKE stage II's that flow 225cfm intake AND 195cfm exhaust. Before any of you say it, I don't want 4-valve heads. The 2 - valve heads make good TQ but low H.P. The 4 - valve heads make good H.P but low TQ. The 3 - valve heads seem to be the happy medium and make good H.P and TQ. Any info on this or a site or link that someone has already done this would be great!!!
My question is : Can a set of new 3-valve cylinder heads work on a 2-valve 5.4? I would think that they would physically bolt on. Just curious if Ford changed any of the coolant/oil passage locations? I already have a 5.4 , 3-valve complete intake manifold but would probably custom fabricate one from aluminum to fit my needs. Now I know the cam phasers are on the 3-valve heads. Can I remove the 3-valve cam gear and install a 2-valve cam gear? Will they bolt up to each other? If not, can I delete the cam phasers and run it like a normal 3-valve head just like a 2-valve head would operate? I just like the flow #'s on the 3-valve heads 300CFM intake and 215CFM exhaust for stage III heads, compared to my FOX LAKE stage II's that flow 225cfm intake AND 195cfm exhaust. Before any of you say it, I don't want 4-valve heads. The 2 - valve heads make good TQ but low H.P. The 4 - valve heads make good H.P but low TQ. The 3 - valve heads seem to be the happy medium and make good H.P and TQ. Any info on this or a site or link that someone has already done this would be great!!!
Last edited by Neal; 12-29-2006 at 01:28 AM.
#5
check the head gaskets if the head gaskets are the same it will all be the same
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...64274035QQrdZ1
3v heads
i just looked the coolant and oil passages are very different
nm i looked at it from a better angle the head cooling and oil passages look to line up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...64274035QQrdZ1
3v heads
i just looked the coolant and oil passages are very different
nm i looked at it from a better angle the head cooling and oil passages look to line up.
Last edited by Faster150; 12-29-2006 at 03:04 PM.
#6
#7
HI!... Well I talked to a buddy of mine that works at the Windsor FORD engine plant here in town. This is the info I got so far to do the swap :
- You need 3-valve heads
- 3 - valve, valve covers
- 5.4L 3 - valve timing chain cover/belt tensioner
- Timing chains should be the same. (He's checking on that for me)
- 5.4L 3 - valve intake manifold
- You will need to custom fabricate a adapter for a cable driven TB
- custom headers need to be made due to the exhaust port shape is different than the 2 - valve ones
- Must run the FORD goofy spark plug lol!
- Will have to change over to 5.4L 3 - valve coil packs
Now none of this is a real big issue to me. All of the shelf products you can buy and some fabrication. No big deal.
The only problem I see is if the can phaser can be totally eliminated, thus removed from the cam gear. This can physically done but the cam phaser is internally oil presure fed through the hollow camshaft. If the phaser is removed, can the oil passage be blocked or does it feed something else? Or will the oil pressure build up and blow out the head gasket?
Option 2 : Find the NEUTRAL setting on the cam phaser and lock it down, aka, weld or bolt it down so it doesn't move. I was told by people at Fords that the VVT (Varible Valve Timing) was there basically so they could eliminate the EGR system and to still pass emissions. If it could be locked into the NEUTRAL position and the wires to the solanoid capped off it would run like a 2 - valve head but with 3 valves.
- You need 3-valve heads
- 3 - valve, valve covers
- 5.4L 3 - valve timing chain cover/belt tensioner
- Timing chains should be the same. (He's checking on that for me)
- 5.4L 3 - valve intake manifold
- You will need to custom fabricate a adapter for a cable driven TB
- custom headers need to be made due to the exhaust port shape is different than the 2 - valve ones
- Must run the FORD goofy spark plug lol!
- Will have to change over to 5.4L 3 - valve coil packs
Now none of this is a real big issue to me. All of the shelf products you can buy and some fabrication. No big deal.
The only problem I see is if the can phaser can be totally eliminated, thus removed from the cam gear. This can physically done but the cam phaser is internally oil presure fed through the hollow camshaft. If the phaser is removed, can the oil passage be blocked or does it feed something else? Or will the oil pressure build up and blow out the head gasket?
Option 2 : Find the NEUTRAL setting on the cam phaser and lock it down, aka, weld or bolt it down so it doesn't move. I was told by people at Fords that the VVT (Varible Valve Timing) was there basically so they could eliminate the EGR system and to still pass emissions. If it could be locked into the NEUTRAL position and the wires to the solanoid capped off it would run like a 2 - valve head but with 3 valves.
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#9
Originally Posted by Faster150
sounds like alot of trouble why not just buy a 5.4 3v long block and change out your internals.
Let us all know what ya find out!
#10
Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
I agree with this--somewhat. Why not take out all of your good internal parts from your 2 valve shortblock (crank, rods, pistons) and put them in a low milage 3 valve block? I want to do this same thing too, by the way. Also, you may want to reuse your 2V injectors if possible, since I heard that the ones they were using on the 3 valves can stick open.
Let us all know what ya find out!
Let us all know what ya find out!
also alot of what helps with top end power is the variable valve timing.. its more noticable in the 4.6 mustang. and same reason the new 5.4 makes alot more top end. so if u go 3v ud want the VCT also.
#11
HI!... The factory installed VCT so they can make power of idle all the way to redline. I don't want the VCT. It can be easily over come by your cam and head work selection. I don't care if I lose H.P/TQ below 3000 RPM due to I have a 3000 stall converter. The way my engine is set up now, I make power up to 6000RPM. Once the turbo gets installed that will climb up towards 6800RPM. Also the amount I would spend on a long block would be the cost of a set of STAGE III 3 - valve heads which with a long block, I would still have to remove the heads and sent them out to have STAGE III done. Doesn't make sense. I have a complete built 5.4 short block now. Just add heads and intake (<which I already have) and a few small things and go.
#14