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The heater core restricter was a TSB when I first read about it - not a factory part. They're probably building it into the water pump nowadays. But if the truck has one, it NEEDS it.

 

A tip. When you start to remove the hoses,use a razor blade knife to slice the hose the long way. You can then unwrap the hose without placing any pressure on the cooling system fittings. A larhe set of pliers will work to remove the "hog ring" clamp.

 

the reducer is just that . it is there to reduce pressure to the heater core and hopefully prevent the heatrer core from leaking.

I broke the plastic connectors since i was replacing the hoses anyway. I believe but have not tried it that you can squeeze the tabs on the connector while pulling and the hose will release.

 

Thanks for the info. Purchased 2 new hose from pepoys with quick connects on them already. Was told by old school mechanic to try using 90 degree needle noses to release old ones. Going to attempt SAT. Bought lower rad hose rig for $41??? Any suggestions/advice on how to tackle that?? All help much appreciated!! Also new hose does have built in restrictor--I can feel it in the hose. Will 1 cold start up wreck the core???

 

Probably not, but you'll know if you see coolant under the truck coming from the HVAC drain. Until then, there's no point worrying about it.

 

I have found that the trick is to push the hose in the "install" direction while pushing in on each clip, one at a time where they extend out the end of the hose connector. Not the square cutouts on each side of the connector. Once each side has snapped loose then squeeze the both at the same time and pull the hose off. I have remove these types of hose several time on different vehicles and gotten them off in less than a minute this way. Just my fingers, no tools.
Spraying some silicone Lubricant into the the connector on the o-rings allows the hoses to snap on with little effort.

 

Here is a pic of the fitting. It will help you understand how they release.

JMC

 

Warning...Be absolutely sure that the hoses "click" when you put them on. 3 gallons of coolant, mucho steam, new cuss words for the dictionary, and one lost friend later, they were good

 

Make sure they click and leak check with water only, less mess and a lot cheaper. :

 

you did not mention what year you are working on,

when i replaced my heater core it was easy, i just cut the hoses and pulled the core out with the fittings still attached

as for the lower rad hose (97 f150 4.6) i removed the tire and wheel well guard/ liner, made easy access

before removing old heater hose's from engine,and after removing old rad hose's, direct 1 hose toward the ground and connect a hose fitting (such as one used to repair garden hose) to the other and connect garden hose and power flush engine with out having to run it, after flushing it i installed new rad and heater hose's