Just open the hood and perform a visual inspection of the wiring plug and harness that connects to the switch on the front of the brake master cylinder.

A completed recall will have an extra butt-ugly harness plugged inline and zip-tied nearby.

No extra harness or an unplugged connector means it was either or only half done. Since in your particular case the cruise works, the connector will not be in an unplugged state.

Steve

 

isnt it just another f^n fuse? thats so damn dumb in my mind when i heard what the remedy was.

 

shoot me your vin number and i can run an oasis to see if it has been done yet to your vehicle. i work in the parts dept at a ford dealership.

 

It's a harness with a fuse link. It's sole purpose is to keep the truck from burning your house down if the switch fails by shorting.

Does it still sound dumb now?

Steve

 

Wow the search botton works... Steve I have an o1 screw with cruise that no worky I went out a just did the test when I press RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
there is no light so this means this switch is broke right??? Thanks for the Help

 

I have an '01 F150 with the recall fix completed - approx. Sept '06. Two days ago my CC just stopped working. I performed the Self-Test Diagonostics, here are the results:
All buttons flashed as I pressed them in sequence (wait to push next button after light goes out).
After the SET/ACCEL button light went out, I got 2 additional flashes.
Could not tell if the speed control servo tested - did not notice throttle pedal movement.

From the diagnostics instructions, 2 additional flashes indicates:
"— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped)."

What is BPP? What circuit? What is CPP? I know I didn't have the brake applied.

What are my next steps?

Thanks!

 

My cruise stopped working a couple days after having the recall fusible link installed. The link remained good but no power was going to the link.
I wiggled all the main heavy duty fuses in the black box next to the brake
master cylinder, under the hood.
Had to do that a couple of times, but finally cruise has worked for about a year now.

 

First off Hello everyone. I know this post is a couple of years old. But alas this problem is cropping up for me and the post has thus far be helpful until i ran into a few question that are not covered in thus far.

Cover Story:
I bought a 2001 4.2L V6 in December with 208,000 miles. I have no problems out of the truck besides basic maintenance and the cruise control not working.

Steps i have taken:
1. Checked the fuses, all the fuses seem to good now.
2. I completed the Self-Test.
Results:
1. Entered Diagnostics Mode (Flash)
2. No other flashes (5 Flashes to indicate a defective speed control servo)
3. On (Flash), Resume (Flash), Coast (Flash), Set/ACCEL (No Flash), Brief Pause
then 3 Flashes. (From my understanding of the troubleshooting matrix, this indicates the "Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective"

From my research i have have only be able to determine that the "Deactivator switch" are the steering wheel controls. If this is correct is there another way to test these switches with out pulling the airbag off and taking them out. (a pin out of the steering wheel wiring harness would be helpful - no luck on finding one online)
I am pretty handy with a multimeter, so that would not be an problem chasing wires.

If i am looking at the wrong part can someone kindly redirect me in the right direction.

Thank you for you help
Rob

 

You sure the fuse in the recall harness isn't blown? Isn't the deactivator switch the SCDS in the master cylinder that's the subject of the recall? Check for brake fluid leaks at the SCDS.

 

Thank yoh for your response. I double checked the fuses in the recall harness and they were both good. I didnt notice any leakage in the connector to the switch or any thing on the harness.

I did read another post last night about trying to bypass the switch to test the switch. I tried that suggestion and it is the switch that is bad. I called the local dealership to see about the switch and i got two answers. Yes they sell it separate from the kit but it costs more ($30) and they sell the repair kit with the switch for about $25.

Now that i know its the switch I can go ahead and replace it.

I do have another question in my test drive with the bypass, the cruise did disable when i hit the breaks. so that would be the sensor for the break pedal position over riding the system?

Thanks
Rob

 

Yes, the brake light switch also sends a disconnect signal.

 

The pressure switch on the master cylinder is a redundant safety disconnect that operates should the primary disconnect fail.

Get the "recall kit". It's cheaper and you get a new fused harness, just in case.

 

I talked with the ford dealership here and theh recommended the same thing. The switch by its self is $30 (if you can get it) and the kit with the switch is $25.


Thank yiu for the responses,

Rob

 

Hi all - this thread has been really useful. A quick question: I just purchased a used 2001 F150, and the cruise control is not working either. It appears that the recall (fused) wiring harness was inserted, but the switch on the master cylinder is now leaking break fluid (no idea when that started).

I ordered a new switch and cable (Motorcraft SW-6350 Speed Sensor Switch Repair Kit) on Amazon. It was easy to replace the switch.

My question has to do with the new cable. Do i plug the new cable directly into the connector coming out of the main wiring harness and throw away the recall wiring? Or do i plug the new cable into the recall wiring? I ask because it doesn't appear to me that the new cable has a fuse in it. Just want to be safe and not burn up my truck!

 

Plug it in directly. The new switch is the improved model that doesn't leak and the pigtail that comes with it replaces the fused recall harness.