Vehicle: 1986, 302 FI, dual tanks.
Problem: I have sucessfully replaced the in line fuel filter. However I have been less than successful at removing the cap to access the fuel filter inside the tank switching valve. So far I have shot 2 large cans of WD 40 at it, bent the handles of 3 perfectly good oil filter wrenches, and shot 5 hours of my day off. Toughest piece of plastic I've ever seen. Anybody replace one of these filters before? I don't think it's been replaced since 1986 judging by the tightness of the cap and the clogged state of my fuel system.
Please give me some ideas on how to remove this blasted thing without tearing up the valve. I have a 2,000 mile road trip starting on Monday and need to get the pre trip PMS done ASAP.
Thanks!

 

The plastic threads gum up with varnish from old gas. There's nothing to do but soak it with penetrating oil & twist... There ARE other styles of oil filter wrench, though. Several styles that are driven by a 3/8" ratchet. Shop around.

But 3 things: 1) Make D@@@MNED sure you have the right replacement filter AND the o-ring! Without a NEW o-ring, you're going nowhere. 2) Very few trucks have a filter inside that valve, and virtually NONE have 2 filters. So don't be surprised if you fight it open & there's nothing in there. 3)Why do you think the filter needs to be replaced? Have you tested all the fuel pumps with a meter, a fuel pressure gauge, &/or a 12V power source? It's MUCH more common for an in-tank pump to die than for that filter to become so clogged that you can feel it.

 

I'm in the process of mechanically overhauling this truck. So far I have had both tanks dipped, replaced both in tank pumps and sending units, replaced the lift pump, cleaned the injectors. That's just the fuel system. I have also done brakes, engine rebuild, clutch replacement, and many other minor things. The truck has a slight hesitation at full throttle. Past experiences have told me this would be a fuel delivery problem. It improved after replacing the inline filter again, that is why I would like to replace the one in the valve as well. Assuming there is one in there.

 

There are a LOT of things that can cause a "slight hesitation". Unless a fuel pressure gauge says there's a problem, I wouldn't risk breaking that reservoir.

 

Before I overhauled the fuel system I could pin the pedal to the floor and the truck would just die. Let off and it goes. Since I've begun my overhaul the problem has improved, so I think I'm on the right track. However I'm just a welder. I build steam plants, oil refineries, and nuclear power plant welding. Working on trucks is something I just stumble through. Keep replacing parts until I fix the problem. What do you think the problem could be? The engine was tuned up, as in all the timing adjustments, fuel pressure was adjusted, and belts were tensioned at a shop in addition to spark plugs, rotor degreeing, and some other things. Like I said, I'm a parts replacer, not a mechanic. Point me in the right direction and I'll get after it.

 

Buy a Haynes manual (the RED cover if you can still find one) & read it. Swapping parts is the LEAST effective & MO$T expen$ive way to fix a truck.



Check eBay for a red Haynes.

If you've reduced it from dying to just a slight hesitation, I'd say you're done. Until you put a long block in it, that's about as good as it's gonna get. But you can tell a LOT about an engine's internal condition with just a compression test & a vacuum gauge hooked directly to a manifold port. You might also be interested in an oil analysis - they range from $20-60.