Oil pan gasket leak
#1
12-02-2006, 10:49 AM
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Oil pan gasket leak
I got in my truck this morning and started driving off when the oil pressure dropped to nothing and the light came on. I immediately pulled into a grocery store parking lot and checked my oil to find nothing on the dipstick, and
there was a pretty good spot of oil where I parked. The last time I checked this past Monday, everything registered fine.
I ran in the store and got some oil. I only had to add 1 quart and a half to get it up to normal, but I'm concerned about the leak I apparently have. The only thing I could think of that would cause it was the cold snap we just had Thursday. Plus, after I put the oil in, I'm not seeing a leak while it's warmed up. It seems like the oil pan gasket has blown. So my questions are:
1. If I only had to put in a quart and a half and I had only driven about half a mile, how much do I need to worry about any engine damage?
2. I had been using a synthetic, but all the store had was some Pennzoil high mileage. Is it a big deal these are mixed?
Also, is the pan gasket hard to replace? Seems simple enough, but I thought I heard somewhere that you have to raise the engine or something.
there was a pretty good spot of oil where I parked. The last time I checked this past Monday, everything registered fine.
I ran in the store and got some oil. I only had to add 1 quart and a half to get it up to normal, but I'm concerned about the leak I apparently have. The only thing I could think of that would cause it was the cold snap we just had Thursday. Plus, after I put the oil in, I'm not seeing a leak while it's warmed up. It seems like the oil pan gasket has blown. So my questions are:
1. If I only had to put in a quart and a half and I had only driven about half a mile, how much do I need to worry about any engine damage?
2. I had been using a synthetic, but all the store had was some Pennzoil high mileage. Is it a big deal these are mixed?
Also, is the pan gasket hard to replace? Seems simple enough, but I thought I heard somewhere that you have to raise the engine or something.
#2
12-02-2006, 11:46 AM
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Can you see the spot on or around the oil pan where it leaked the oil from? If the whole lower end is dirty/oily enough that you can't tell, use a pressure washer to clean it all up. Make sure oil is filled, start 'er up and run it to see if you can find the leak. My guess is that you have a leaking drain plug, or a seal more than the pan gasket, or maybe even a valve cover gasket up top?? Do you have an external cooler or remote filter? It could be a leaky hose or fitting.
The oil pressure dropping to 'nothing' is a bit interesting though if it only took 1-1/2 quarts to refill it. To me that doesn't make alot of sense unless you popped a hose to a remote filter or cooler. Typically you'd have to lose more than 1-1/2 qts of oil before you lose pressure like that, but who knows?
If you have to drop the pan you'll be draining the oil anyway so mixing oils shouldn't create any real problems for you. Just change it all out as soon as you get the problem resolved. As for any damage?? DId you hear any clacking or other noises?
It is likely you'll have to raise the engine to get the pan to clear
The oil pressure dropping to 'nothing' is a bit interesting though if it only took 1-1/2 quarts to refill it. To me that doesn't make alot of sense unless you popped a hose to a remote filter or cooler. Typically you'd have to lose more than 1-1/2 qts of oil before you lose pressure like that, but who knows?
If you have to drop the pan you'll be draining the oil anyway so mixing oils shouldn't create any real problems for you. Just change it all out as soon as you get the problem resolved. As for any damage?? DId you hear any clacking or other noises?
It is likely you'll have to raise the engine to get the pan to clear
#3
12-02-2006, 12:57 PM
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#4
12-02-2006, 01:09 PM
#5
12-02-2006, 01:31 PM
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I've got a 2000 4.6 4x2 with standard oil filter, not remote. Looking at it, I have an occasional drip. The leak is somewhere above the crossmember that the suspension control arms mount to. Seems to be leaking onto the crossmember and then from there to the ground. Looking at my oil pal, theres a pretty good build up of crud. Looks like dirt that's built up with oil over time.
I don't see any oil coming from anywhere at the top or front of the engine. It looks like its coming from the oil pan somewhere around the oil filter.
I'd much rather do this myself, but sure enough, you have to raise the engine up, and I'm not equiped to do that. Which sucks because I already got one quote that was going to run over $500.
I don't see any oil coming from anywhere at the top or front of the engine. It looks like its coming from the oil pan somewhere around the oil filter.
I'd much rather do this myself, but sure enough, you have to raise the engine up, and I'm not equiped to do that. Which sucks because I already got one quote that was going to run over $500.
#6
12-02-2006, 04:38 PM
You can rent a collapsible (portable) engine hoist for ~$20/day. Or if you're creative, you can build the style that Ford recommends: a crossbar that rests on the fenders & lifts the engine by the alternator bolt holes. Some scrap metal, a piece of pipe, & a big threaded rod with matching nuts & washers would do it. You might spend $30 & an hour or so putting it together, but you'd have it forever.
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».
2. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-03A».
3. Remove the radiator air deflector (8326).
>1 - Remove the screws.
>2 - Remove the radiator air deflector.
4. Remove the accelerator cable snow shield.
>1 - Remove the bolts.
>2 - Remove the accelerator cable snow shield.
5. Disconnect the throttle body cam.
>1 - Disconnect the accelerator cable (9A758).
>2 - Disconnect the speed control actuator cable.
>3 - Remove the accelerator return spring.
6. Remove the accelerator cable bracket bolts and position the bracket and cables aside.
7. Disconnect the main vacuum harness.
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor and engine vacuum regulator connectors.
9. Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
10. Disconnect the vapor management valve vacuum line.
11. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR connector.
12. Remove the nut and disconnect the brake booster vacuum line and bracket.
13. Disconnect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to «Section 310-01A».
14. Disconnect the idle air control motor electrical connector.
15. Position the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube aside.
>1 - Disconnect the upper fitting.
>2 - Loosen the lower fitting.
>3 - Disconnect the two vacuum lines.
>4 - Position the tube aside.
16. Disconnect and remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
17. Remove the four bolts and remove the throttle body adapter.
18. Position the power steering reservoir aside.
>1 - Remove the upper bolt.
>2 - Remove the lower bolts.
>3 - Position the reservoir aside.
19. Disconnect the eight fuel injectors.
20. Disconnect and remove the eight ignition coils. For additional information refer to «Section 303-07C».
21. Remove the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
22. Disconnect the heater hose.
23. Position the fan shroud (8146) aside.
1 - Remove the bolts.
2 - Position the fan shroud aside.
24. Remove the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
25. Install the 3-Bar Engine Support Bracket on the engine using the generator mounting bolts.
26. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».
27. Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil.
28. Remove the RH motor mount bolt.
29. Remove the LH motor mount bolt.
30. Lower the vehicle.
31. Raise the engine using the 3-Bar Engine Support.
32. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
33. Remove the oil pan bolts. Position the oil pan (6675) aside to gain access to the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622).
Note: Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket (6710). The oil pan gasket is reusable if it is not damaged.
34. Remove the bolt securing the rear of the oil pump screen cover and tube.
35. Remove the bolts securing the front of the oil pump screen cover and tube.
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».
2. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-03A».
3. Remove the radiator air deflector (8326).
>1 - Remove the screws.
>2 - Remove the radiator air deflector.
4. Remove the accelerator cable snow shield.
>1 - Remove the bolts.
>2 - Remove the accelerator cable snow shield.
5. Disconnect the throttle body cam.
>1 - Disconnect the accelerator cable (9A758).
>2 - Disconnect the speed control actuator cable.
>3 - Remove the accelerator return spring.
6. Remove the accelerator cable bracket bolts and position the bracket and cables aside.
7. Disconnect the main vacuum harness.
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor and engine vacuum regulator connectors.
9. Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
10. Disconnect the vapor management valve vacuum line.
11. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR connector.
12. Remove the nut and disconnect the brake booster vacuum line and bracket.
13. Disconnect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to «Section 310-01A».
14. Disconnect the idle air control motor electrical connector.
15. Position the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube aside.
>1 - Disconnect the upper fitting.
>2 - Loosen the lower fitting.
>3 - Disconnect the two vacuum lines.
>4 - Position the tube aside.
16. Disconnect and remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
17. Remove the four bolts and remove the throttle body adapter.
18. Position the power steering reservoir aside.
>1 - Remove the upper bolt.
>2 - Remove the lower bolts.
>3 - Position the reservoir aside.
19. Disconnect the eight fuel injectors.
20. Disconnect and remove the eight ignition coils. For additional information refer to «Section 303-07C».
21. Remove the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
22. Disconnect the heater hose.
23. Position the fan shroud (8146) aside.
1 - Remove the bolts.
2 - Position the fan shroud aside.
24. Remove the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
25. Install the 3-Bar Engine Support Bracket on the engine using the generator mounting bolts.
26. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».
27. Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil.
28. Remove the RH motor mount bolt.
29. Remove the LH motor mount bolt.
30. Lower the vehicle.
31. Raise the engine using the 3-Bar Engine Support.
32. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
33. Remove the oil pan bolts. Position the oil pan (6675) aside to gain access to the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622).
Note: Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket (6710). The oil pan gasket is reusable if it is not damaged.
34. Remove the bolt securing the rear of the oil pump screen cover and tube.
35. Remove the bolts securing the front of the oil pump screen cover and tube.
Last edited by Steve83; 12-02-2006 at 04:51 PM.
#7
12-02-2006, 04:52 PM
Installation
1. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.
2. Position the oil pan gasket, the oil pan and the oil pump screen cover and tube together to the cylinder block (6010).
3. Install the bolts.
4. Install the bolt.
5. Apply the silicone at the engine front cover to cylinder block mating surface. Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.
Note: If the oil pan is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure may result in future oil leakage.
6. Apply the silicone at the rear oil seal retainer to cylinder block sealing surface. Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.
Note: If the if the oil pan is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure may result in future oil leakage.
7. Position the oil pan gasket.
8. Install the bolts and tighten in three stages, in the sequence shown.
Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Lower the engine and remove the 3-Bar Engine Support.
11. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
12. Install the RH motor mount bolt.
13. Install the LH motor mount bolt.
14. Install the drain plug.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Remove the 3-Bar Engine Support Bracket.
17. Install the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
18. Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
19. Install the throttle body adapter and the four bolts.
20. Install the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube.
>1 - Hand-tighten the fittings.
>2 - Tighten the upper fitting.
>3 - Tighten the lower fitting.
>4 - Connect the two vacuum hoses.
21. Connect the idle air control motor.
22. Connect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to «Section 310-00A».
23. Connect the brake booster vacuum line and bracket and install the nut.
24. Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR connections.
25. Connect the vapor management valve vacuum line.
26. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
27. Connect the throttle position sensor connector and the engine vacuum regulator connector.
28. Connect the main vacuum harness.
29. Install the accelerator cable bracket and the bolts.
30. Connect the throttle body cam.
>1 - Connect the accelerator cable.
>2 - Connect the speed control actuator cable.
>3 - Install the throttle return spring.
31. Install the accelerator cable snow shield and the bolts.
32. Connect the upper radiator hose and position the clamp.
33. Install the engine air cleaner and the air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-12».
34. Install the radiator air deflector.
35. Connect the battery ground cable.
36. Fill the engine with Super Premium 5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.
37. Fill and bleed the cooling system. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-03A».
1. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.
2. Position the oil pan gasket, the oil pan and the oil pump screen cover and tube together to the cylinder block (6010).
3. Install the bolts.
4. Install the bolt.
5. Apply the silicone at the engine front cover to cylinder block mating surface. Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.
Note: If the oil pan is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure may result in future oil leakage.
6. Apply the silicone at the rear oil seal retainer to cylinder block sealing surface. Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.
Note: If the if the oil pan is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure may result in future oil leakage.
7. Position the oil pan gasket.
8. Install the bolts and tighten in three stages, in the sequence shown.
Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Lower the engine and remove the 3-Bar Engine Support.
11. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
12. Install the RH motor mount bolt.
13. Install the LH motor mount bolt.
14. Install the drain plug.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Remove the 3-Bar Engine Support Bracket.
17. Install the generator. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-02».
18. Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
19. Install the throttle body adapter and the four bolts.
20. Install the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube.
>1 - Hand-tighten the fittings.
>2 - Tighten the upper fitting.
>3 - Tighten the lower fitting.
>4 - Connect the two vacuum hoses.
21. Connect the idle air control motor.
22. Connect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to «Section 310-00A».
23. Connect the brake booster vacuum line and bracket and install the nut.
24. Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR connections.
25. Connect the vapor management valve vacuum line.
26. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
27. Connect the throttle position sensor connector and the engine vacuum regulator connector.
28. Connect the main vacuum harness.
29. Install the accelerator cable bracket and the bolts.
30. Connect the throttle body cam.
>1 - Connect the accelerator cable.
>2 - Connect the speed control actuator cable.
>3 - Install the throttle return spring.
31. Install the accelerator cable snow shield and the bolts.
32. Connect the upper radiator hose and position the clamp.
33. Install the engine air cleaner and the air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-12».
34. Install the radiator air deflector.
35. Connect the battery ground cable.
36. Fill the engine with Super Premium 5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.
37. Fill and bleed the cooling system. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-03A».
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#8
12-02-2006, 05:19 PM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Yeah. It's going to a shop to get that done. I just don't have the facilities to remove all of that just to change out the oil pan gasket. I don't understand why they designed it to where you have to pull half the parts out of the truck just to get to the oil pan that's sitting right there in your face.
$500 down the drain...
$500 down the drain...
#9
12-02-2006, 06:39 PM
Because it's cheaper to build & assemble - they don't really spend much design time on repair considerations.
Just FYI: The 4WD procedure is MUCH easier.
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Support the front axle housing with a jack stand.
4. Remove front axle housing support.
>1 - Remove the front axle mount bolt.
>2 - Remove the axle support bolts.
>3 - Remove the axle support.
5. Remove the right and front axle housing mount bolts and lower the axle to allow clearance for the oil pan to be removed.
CAUTION: Use care when lowering the front axle housing, or the vacuum lines to the axle solenoid may become disconnected or damaged.
6. Remove the oil pan.
7. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket. Clean the sealing surfaces. Use Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow the surfaces to dry for four minutes or until there is no sign of wetness, whichever is longest. Failure to do so can cause future oil leaks.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs, or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These may cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
Just FYI: The 4WD procedure is MUCH easier.
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Support the front axle housing with a jack stand.
4. Remove front axle housing support.
>1 - Remove the front axle mount bolt.
>2 - Remove the axle support bolts.
>3 - Remove the axle support.
5. Remove the right and front axle housing mount bolts and lower the axle to allow clearance for the oil pan to be removed.
CAUTION: Use care when lowering the front axle housing, or the vacuum lines to the axle solenoid may become disconnected or damaged.
6. Remove the oil pan.
7. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket. Clean the sealing surfaces. Use Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A. Allow the surfaces to dry for four minutes or until there is no sign of wetness, whichever is longest. Failure to do so can cause future oil leaks.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs, or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These may cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
Last edited by Steve83; 12-02-2006 at 06:42 PM.
