just bought a used 2000 f150. i wanted to change the plugs but i cannot even find them. i feel so stupid asking this but want to know where they are. i dont even see plug wires. i see up by the fule injector rails there are round cap things but i dont know if these are the top of the plugs or where they are. if someone can explain it to me or post a pic that would be great. thanks

 

Each cylinder has its own coil. The COP (coil on plug) is on top of each spark plug. The spark plug wells are on top of the engine.
The COPS on my 1999 5.4L engine are shown in the picture below. The COPS are attached to the engine with a small bolt.

 

Way down in never never land. Took me four hours to do the 97. Grrrr, I love the older trucks...

 

good luck changing that last plug on the passenger side, next to the firewall. Take your time and try not to swear too much. If it is not missing or throwing any codes and has less than 100K, I would leave them alone. YMMV.

 

yup, just what i though coild on the plugs and they are bolted in.. wow. yes i think i will have to take my fule rail off to get to them. i love the ford trucks but it seems nothing is easy on them. another thing i hate is leaning over a truck. well i hope my plugs last a long time i dont want to change them for like 20 years lol.

 

I did not have to remove my fuel rails and I don't think you will have to if you have the proper wrenches. Removing the coil boots and getting in and out of other stuff on the engine can be a bitch, though.

 

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u will need a 8 mm swivel socket to remove some of the bolts holding the coils on

 

Other than the 8mm swivel socket, anything else? Standard socket extension good enough? Torque wrench assuming the 1/8 to 1/4 turn after booted isn't precise enough for our comfort level..

#3, #6, and #8 misfiring so replacing the cops and plugs this weekend. Don't want to find out I don't have the right tool for the job. The money I'm saving doing it myself, IMO, justifies some goodies for the tool collection..

 

The COP hold down bolt is a 7mm. If you do decide to remove the fuel rail the bolts holding down the fuel rail are 8mm. To keep from tearing an O ring a dab of engine oil on the ring will help them slide into place. When installing the COP hold down bolt start it by hand just to be sure it is not cross threaded. The hold down bolts use a fine thread so they don't back out under vibration from the engine. I use antiseize on mine so they come out easier. I also use anti-seize on the plug threads. Some people do and some don't so that is up to you. Oh, and don't forget dielectric grease on the end of the plug boot.

JMC

 

I ended up cross-threading one of my cop bolts and ended up having to replace it with a shorter one because the old one would no longer go all the way in. It can be difficult to get those cop bolts started back in and if you use a magnetic end like I did you can have problems knowing if the bolt is starting to thread to correctly.

 

If you decide to pull the fuel rails...........
Make sure to check for the o-ring on top of the injector.
They sometimes have a tendancy to stick in the rail.
When reinstalling rails, use petroleum jelly on the injector o-rings and triple ck for fuel leaks befor starting the engine.
Cycle key to run pos. then back to off. Visually ck for leak. Repeat, repeat.

Jeffro