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Pulled the motor to rebuild the heads a second time because the machine shop botched the job.. Valve stems were 0.020" over spec and that caused them to be stuck open partially. Additionally, the seats weren't cut properly and had to be redone. AND because the valves weren't closing it fuel washed the oil off of the cylinder walls and scuffed the teflon off of all of the pistons, so had to replace all the pistons a second time.
Upon pulling the heads, noticed that there was some rust, but it was all contained within a portion of the headgasket between 2 water jackets. I took a 3M 120 roloc and some WD40 to clean the rust without removing too much material and I'm left with some pitting. I took a straight edge and can see that there is a tiny amount of light getting through in the pitted areas (not surprisingly). I contacted felpro and the engineer there suspects it might have been overheated at some point. Which It very well could have been when I was trying to bleed the coolant on initial startup it got air-locked pretty bad.
During the initial rebuild the block was decked (0.010") and bored (0.020"). & The heads have now been resurfaced twice.
So now I'm left with some questions.
1. Is this issue likely to recur if I replace the head gasket with the block in its current state? Or not likely since the initial damage was likely caused from overheating?
the portions of the engine block deck with pitting are not close to any of the water jackets or oil ports, so I'm hoping the headgasket will seal along the permiter of the water jacket and the pitted spots don't matter.
However- the pitted spots do seem to border where the embossed portions of the headgasket do seal.. so that is concerning. I think the location of the leak is of no concern because it is between 2 water jackets and everything else remained sealed.. but one of my concerns is possible rust jacking if the leak / corrosion does recur.
2. If the deck is a no go in its current state, do I have any options to repair the block that don't involve getting the block decked again?
3. With 0.010" removed from the block and the heads being resurfaced twice, do I HAVE to use a .010" thickened headgasket? My machinist says no. But after research I'm concerned about the timing being thrown off, cause by now there could be as much as 0.030"+ material loss between both the heads and block deck.
Pulled the motor to rebuild the heads a second time because the machine shop botched the job.. Valve stems were 0.020" over spec and that caused them to be stuck open partially. Additionally, the seats weren't cut properly and had to be redone. AND because the valves weren't closing it fuel washed the oil off of the cylinder walls and scuffed the teflon off of all of the pistons, so had to replace all the pistons a second time.
Upon pulling the heads, noticed that there was some rust, but it was all contained within a portion of the headgasket between 2 water jackets. I took a 3M 120 roloc and some WD40 to clean the rust without removing too much material and I'm left with some pitting. I took a straight edge and can see that there is a tiny amount of light getting through in the pitted areas (not surprisingly). I contacted felpro and the engineer there suspects it might have been overheated at some point. Which It very well could have been when I was trying to bleed the coolant on initial startup it got air-locked pretty bad.
During the initial rebuild the block was decked (0.010") and bored (0.020"). & The heads have now been resurfaced twice.
So now I'm left with some questions.
1. Is this issue likely to recur if I replace the head gasket with the block in its current state? Or not likely since the initial damage was likely caused from overheating?
the portions of the engine block deck with pitting are not close to any of the water jackets or oil ports, so I'm hoping the headgasket will seal along the permiter of the water jacket and the pitted spots don't matter.
However- the pitted spots do seem to border where the embossed portions of the headgasket do seal.. so that is concerning. I think the location of the leak is of no concern because it is between 2 water jackets and everything else remained sealed.. but one of my concerns is possible rust jacking if the leak / corrosion does recur.
2. If the deck is a no go in its current state, do I have any options to repair the block that don't involve getting the block decked again?
3. With 0.010" removed from the block and the heads being resurfaced twice, do I HAVE to use a .010" thickened headgasket? My machinist says no. But after research I'm concerned about the timing being thrown off, cause by now there could be as much as 0.030"+ material loss between both the heads and block deck.
if it were me, I’d toss all that in the scrap pile and start over with a fresh donor motor
11-25-2022, 07:30 PM
