I bought a brand new 2015 XLT 5.0 last November. I've not bought a new vehicle since 1991. Back then I would religiously change the oil and filter at 1000 miles during the break-in process. I'm at about 1200 miles now on my 5.0. Is this still a good habit with modern motors? How long should I run the original oil before changing?

 

No longer necessary, but it wouldn't hurt.

When you do, it takes 7.7 quarts of 5w20, I'd recommend Motorcraft oil and filter.

 

Yes to what glc posted. I will give you what the standard was for testing new production engines right off the assembly line at Ford.
We would run an 18 hour break-in prior to most durability tests of the modular engines.
This break-in as stated above ran for 18 hours and entailed various RPM and load settings through out that period of time. Basicly following what the average person may drive in normal everyday driving. Some idle time, stop and go and highway driving. However no heavy towing during this time. At the end of this time frame we would change the oil and filter then proceed with the dyno test selected for that engine. We used 5W-20w and Motorcraft filters.
Personally I have always changed my oil on a new vehicle around 1500-2000 miles for the first change, never had a problem. One myth is that there is a special breakin oil installed at the factory that is simply not true its just regular 5w-20w oil that meets Ford specs. The only exception was the GT40 engine and a few other niche built high performance engines that took full synthetic as original factory fills.

 

I changed mine on two of them st 3000 and they have been great. 85,000 on the 2011 and 30,000 on the 2014. Both have been great, no oil used.

 

Good advice. I'll change the oil then when it warms up a bit.

I've used a lot of Mobil 1 and Amsoil in the past. Should I wait until "full break-in", maybe 3k miles, before changing to synthetic?

 

Personally, I'd stay with Motorcraft oil, at least through the warranty period. But, if you want to try something else, do a search for some of Labnerd's posts on oil. Mobil 1 does not appear to be the best choice and Amsoil may not be so good either.

I'm still using Mototcraft in my 2014.

- Jack

 

If you use Mobil 1, use the 5w20 EP with a Mobil 1 filter. If you use Amsoil, use the Signature 5w20 with an Amsoil filter. No need to wait to switch these days, full synthetic is factory fill in more and more engines these days, especially in European vehicles.

However, the Motorcraft semi-synthetic is an excellent oil, as are their filters.

Mobil 1 and Amsoil are not great choices for the Ecoboost, but they are fine in the 5.0.

 

I've recently read that some of the new Corvette engines were blowing up due to machining debri left in the engine. Also, some V6 Hyundai engine had the same issue. I don't think Ford has had that problem of not cleaning the oil passages well enough, but it can't hurt to change it early.

 

I happen to have 10 quarts of Mobil 1 5w20 EP in the garage. I've been using it in all my 4 wheelers for the past few years. Thanks for the reminder, that some new cars come with Mobil 1 in them from the factory. I don't remember ever seeing Motorcraft oil for a sale anywhere. Where is this sold? Hopefully somewhere else than the dealer.

 

Walmart sells Motorcraft oil and filters.

 

Not only Walmart, but Autozone and O'Reilly carry Motorcraft.

Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator and I believe Conoco/Phillips makes the oil.

 

Regarding oil brand in terms of warranty coverage.
Part of my job was to write engine teardown analysis reports for Ford that were made available to everyone in Ford Motor Co. These reports were also used for evidence in warranty claim disputes. If a customer tried to sue Ford for rejecting a warranty claim etc. Those reports could show evidence of neglect in terms of maintainance. The brand of oil is not a big concern with the auto makers as long as you are using oil that is approved by company in terms of chemical makeup. Such as SAE approved etc. If the vehicle must use Synthetic and you use regular oil then you violated the terms of the warranty for that vehicle. But Quaker State, Mobil one, Motorcraft, etc. that is quality oil and SAE approved is not the big concern as most major brands are quality oil blends. What is important is that you have dated sales receipts from the oil purchased or proof of oil changes performed at the dealer or oil change shop or yourself during regular company recommended intervals. That's what they want to see. In other words while you are under warranty oil changes and proof of them can be cheap insurance.

 

Good to know.

 

One thing to think about as far as maintenance goes is
carfax will show all maintenance performed at the dealer or in most cases at quick lube places. When it comes time to sell potential buyers who use carfax will be impressed by those records. No records make it appear you didn't take car of it. A log if you maintain yourself is good for that reason as well. Also as mentioned if you have a failure under the warranty you'll NEED those receipts!