B Man,

One thing I remember is to spend the extra $20 and get the fan puller kit from your parts store. I usually use a strap wrench and a big adjustable. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the strap tight enough. I would have been worth the couple of bucks to have the wrenches. In the same area once you pull the bolt out of the main crank pulley, there is a big washer over the rubber seal. I tried like heck to get that pulley off without ever realizing there was a washer on it. Spent probably another 2 hours on that.

See two really simple things that now I know.

MX,

I have a question about the tension on the timing chain. The chain going to the passenger head. I only was able to put marks on the head sprocket. How much slack should be on the "top" of the chain? I didn't do that side and I have the rough idle. I think my timing is off slightly. Now that I really think about it, the slop all should probably be on the bottom since that is where the tensioner is. Is this correct?

Thanks.

Doug

 

The slack should be on the tensioner side. Thats the reason you mark the chain on opposite ends and line the chain marks up with the gear marks, its possible you could be off on your timing. I know your engine will bend valves if the timing is off. What I don't know is how far off you can be before it bends valves.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I am about to tackle the same job for the same reason as you dnale.

Any one out there have the applicable portions of the service manual available and willing to share.

It figures I'd blow a plug at this time. I'm military and at a family members house between a PCS transfer. Gotta tackle it this week so that I can report to my new location.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

OP is LONG gone probably. 7 years is along time..

 

If you're talking about removing the cylinder head because a plug came out, buy a Timesert kit.

No need to pull the head.

 

How is the Timesert different from Helicoil? I was going to pull the head and have my machine shop Helicoil all cylinders so that I'm not doing this again when another plug blows?

My concern with doing the repair with the head on is shavings getting into the engine. Not to mention accessibility to the rearmost cylinders.

 

This is a fairly common problem and the installation of the timesert is pretty much down to a science. If you dont wanta do it there are lots of shops capable of handling it. Expect to pay about $400 a hole. Heilicoils dont work.

 

Yep, timeserts work, -heilcoils don't. That's all you need to know.

 

Timeserts are hardened inserts, helicoils ain't.

As far as metal shavings falling into the cylinder, coat your tap with heavy grease and back it out a little every turn or so, the metal chips will get caught by the grease.

Or, if you're really worried (and I know this sounds silly), roll the piston to BDC and fill the cylinder with shaving cream. Cut your threads, then roll the engine back around to TDC, the shaving cream will get pushed out of the cylinder along with any metal bits or pieces.

 

Sounds like the Timeserts are the way to go.

In the instructions on their web site they say:
Any one have experience doing this with the head installed? Any advice on the rear cylinders?

I'm a military guy in between duty stations and can't shell out $400 for a shop to do it.

 

bmw, there's quite a few guys that have done this repair without pulling the head and all were successful. In fact, I don't know of anyone who has pulled the head to do this.
User Galaxy of Galaxy Lubricants use to rent the Timesert kit cheaper than it is to purchase one yourself.

Start a thread with the proper heading in order to fish these people out lol, - for info.

Galaxy and others have even did #4 and #8 with the heads and motor still under the hood.

Or search the engines forum for "Timesert Repair".

Good Luck.

 

Hello Ian. Is there any way you may still have the PDF? If so, could you please send me a copy to: joelravel@gmail.com? I am working on my 98 F250 LD 5.4 and would really appreciate it. Thank you very much.