One other bit of advice: Don't use any kind of abrasive pad or metal scraper on the head or block to remove the old gasket. Ford recommends using a liquid gasket remover and a plastic scraper. Ford actually mailed all the dealers a plastic scraper that looks like the ice scraper you guys up north got use during the winter

Ha Ha it was 70 and sunny today in Texas

 

It was 45 yesterday here, but it's falling today. By the time I start working on the truck it will be 25. D'oh!

Where did you get your crank case tool? I was planning on using some paint (ok some liquid paper...)

I'm hoping this goes smoothly. It may not be quick, but hopefully smoothly.

Should I mark the chain at both the head and crank and the head and the crank?

The lucky part of working on the GMC was that we had an uncle who is a gm mechanic at the GM proving grounds....He was working all the OT to get those prototypes ready for the NAIAS.

 

i would mark the chain/cam sprocket in 3 places,(3,9,12 o'clock) and the chain/crank sprocket in 2 places(4,7 o'clock). make sure you spray the stuff off with a good cleaner before you mark it. one other thing, be careful when you remove the front cover. you can remove the valve cover bolts on the front of the driver side and gently pry the front cover out, but be very careful not to "roll" the gasket under when you put the front cover back on. i would definately change the oil when you are finished. even though you drain the coolant, when you pull the head you will probably have some run down into the cylinder which will more than likely let a little in the oil. i'm telling you this is a pretty intimidating job, i hope you know what your up against. i am lucky enough to be 5'7" and 165lbs. so with the hood off i could just climb down in there and stand on the sway bar. it was still a sucky job to do. good luck.

 

I work for a Ford dealer so I get my special tools from Rotunda, you should be able to buy it from your dealer they should be able to order you one with overnight shipping. this is the part # 303-448 (T93P-6303-A) I think the 303-448 # is a OTC # and if your dealer can't get it try a tool dealer that can get OTC tools.

Just in case you haven't thought about it you'll also need the left valve cover gasket also.

Are you pulling the head to repair an oil leak? If so I would advise waiting untill you have some good pictures showing the proper timing procedures.

When you go back together don't forget to put the exicter ring back on the crankshaft I did it once I felt like a real idiot and then had to waste a couple hours pulling it back apart.

 

DNale;

I have a factory shop manual with all of the timing procedures, drawings, tools, etc. If you want a copy, send me an email and I will PDF it for you.

BTW the special tools are:
Crankshaft Holding Tool: 303-448(T93P-6303-A)
Camshaft Holding Tool: 303-557(T96T-6256-B) - looks like you need two of these
Camshaft Positioning Tool set: 303-S568(T96T-6256AR)

Ian

 

Ian & MX,

I have the manual on CD. Which tool would I need for the timing? MX, you said you don't use them all.

Why would I need the driver's side valve cover? The ford dealer didn't say anything about it.

 

Guys,

I called my dealer and he said they don't sell tools. The OTC tool dealers can't locate them from the numbers I have... HELP!

 

You need to pull the left valve cover in order to remove the timing cover. Your dealer can sell you tools They must choose not to for whatever reason. I became my dealers shop foreman a while back and I've ordered tools for customers. Maybe you should try to contact your dealers shop foreman and ask him to get the tools for you. I only use the crank positioning tool. Its the same tool used to align all 4.6l has well.

 

Ok, will I need any other special tools?

The crankcase positioner is not available. The OTC dealer found one for $18 but it's on order and 3-4 weeks out. I called 3 dealers, none of them sell tools. One suggested I try to "borrow" and that was a big REJECTED at all of them. It's an $18 part. I'd pay them to borrow it!

Do I pull the radiator? To do that do I have to pull the fan? I probably have to do that to get at the timing cover. It looks like more and more parts and pieces. Aww crap...

 

I got the head off, fixed and back in the truck in a weekend. Granted it was a lot of work, but the truck is back together. I would be driving it today, but I messed up and broke the thermostat housing. D'oh! The truck starts and idle's great. No leaks other than the thermostat housing. No codes either. I figure my cousin and I spent about 24 hours on it. So about 48 hours total. I know for sure of 2 things that we could have done that would have cut about 6 hours or more off of that. It actually went back together pretty fast. It took about 5 hours friday night and about 11 hours saturday to get everything apart. Then we fixed the head Sunday morning. Spent another 2 hours prepping the block and head and intake. Then we started putting things back together. We finished about 10:30 last night. Then I saw the water coming from the thermostat housing. I could have kicked myself. Now I need to drive an hour to get a housing so I can get the truck out of my uncle garage. I owe him big time! Not to mention the mess I have under the truck. Love that oil dry!

Thanks to all for thier help.

Doug

 

I got the head off, fixed and back in the truck in a weekend. Granted it was a lot of work, but the truck is back together. I would be driving it today, but I messed up and broke the thermostat housing. D'oh! The truck starts and idle's great. No leaks other than the thermostat housing. No codes either. I figure my cousin and I spent about 24 hours on it. So about 48 hours total. I know for sure of 2 things that we could have done that would have cut about 6 hours or more off of that. It actually went back together pretty fast. It took about 5 hours friday night and about 11 hours saturday to get everything apart. Then we fixed the head Sunday morning. Spent another 2 hours prepping the block and head and intake. Then we started putting things back together. We finished about 10:30 last night. Then I saw the water coming from the thermostat housing. I could have kicked myself. Now I need to drive an hour to get a housing so I can get the truck out of my uncle garage. I owe him big time! Not to mention the mess I have under the truck. Love that oil dry!

Thanks to all for your help.

Doug

 

Doug,

if you don't mind my asking what work did you have done to the head? I have the oil leak and am in the same situation as you at 110k miles on the truck. I am trying to decide if I should have the valve guides replaced / heads rebuilt when I have the truck repaired. did you replace your cam bearings as well?

You went after way more work than I would want to, congrats on getting it done.

Pat

 

Pat,

I had new threads (an insert) put in the head. I did nothing to the head other than that. It was better to take it off the truck so I could get the insert seated the whole way. Biggest pain would be either the back bolt on the intake on the passengerside or the couplew of studs on the backside of the passenger head. They are all by feel.

Give me a shout if you need more info.

Doug

 

Doug -

Congrats on the kick@ss repair job! It takes b@lls to tear into these trucks nowadays.

Do you think you could share the 2 things that you could have done to shorten the repair job by 6 hours with the rest of us?

I for one like having all of that kind of info I can get.

Again, congrats... You obviously are not an "average" mechanic!!

B-Man

 

Dude,

That rocks that you guys were able to do it that fast. I've just gone through my second head gasket replacement, and both times its taken my dealer 3 days. And my dealer is the 6th largest Ford truck dealer in the nation, the only time the shop is closed is from 6pm Sat. to 6am Sun. I think I'm going to have to sell my truck at about 75,000 when the extended warranty runs out, because I can't see doing or paying for this job myself. I've never seen anything like this. You can pretty much go to Vegas and put money down on these 5.4 passenger side heads leaking.