One of the issues with any of the direct injected engines is the oil gets so hot that it evaporates. That's why some of you are running a catch can on the breather. What is important on these engines is the motor oils NOACK or the ASTM D5800 testing(one hour at 250C/482F). As I was searching thru the info at PQIA I came across an oil that has an unbelievably low NOACK. Take a look at the attached linky. It's Pennzoils conventional 10w-30 yellow bottle motor oil with a NOACK of 4.4 and rechecked since this is WAY low for a conventional oil, at 4.2. So apparently it's real. If you're having to use a catch can or having oil disappearing on the dipstick, this might be the cure. The formulation shows a lot of moly and boron which is ideal for these engines. I'd consider a 5000 mile OCI.
FWIW, this conventional oil beats any synthetic out there for heat issues and formulation. This is for 10w-30 only. It also will go easily to minus 25F in regards to the test parameters and in reality go colder.
http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html

 

Fantastic info as always, Mr. Nerd! I certainly wouldn't have thought it, but great info nonetheless. In fact, I'm rethinking my choice of Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum. Never would've thought a conventional would be a better choice than synthetic.

Thanks, sir!

 

Hey Dewser... You are still using my quote! Awesome! I still remember that post and that "College Boy" was really a dweeb...

Wow Labnerd. That's some very interesting info for sure.. I used 10w30 Pennzoil 30+ years ago in whatever vehicle had back then... Good, cheap oil when I was only making $4/hour in whatever job I had at the time..

I think the Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 is 9.3 or something like that? Lower than Mobil 1 and Castroil Edge.. Both of which I used in the past as well..

I recall you saying that once you change weights of oils, that's all you can run from then on? If the 10w part is good to -25F why do the manufactures all say we have to use 5w? Not trying to argue.. Just trying to learn. The coldest I've been in is in the teens in WA State and if it gets colder than that, I'm outta here! No way I'd live anyplace that gets colder than the PLUS teens..

Do you have any info on the 5w30 Pennzoil regular oil? Now, wouldn't that be something if it has less NOACK rating then their Platinum at 9.3?

Thanks,

Mitch

 

I think that's an old wives tale.

Marginally better fuel economy and easier starts when it's really cold out.

 

This may not be applicable with today's oils. But, I remember reading when 5w30 first came to be that the manufacturers found out that there was less cam/lifter wear on initial startup when the switch was made to 5w30 vs 10w30 due to quicker oil pressure to the area. That was back before roller lifters and OHCs.

 

Thanks for the info, nerd. I also have to point out this is an old man's thread. The youngster is glc with a join date 9 years ago.

 

So what happens when I run 10w30 and then have some issue with my truck and take it to ford and they say, nope, oil is wrong we can't cover your warranty lol.

 

I just can't imagine a conventional oil flowing well at minus 25F . Sorry

 

I hope motorcraft semi syn is good, because I have had 3 ecoboosts and that is the only oil I have used. Don't pull a dipstick between oil changes and am not familiar with the catch can deal.

 

You are confusing actual performance versus test criteria. The 10w oils are not tested by the same requirements as a 5w. If you assumed that a 10w oil will have less cold flow performance you'd be wrong. A well formulated 10w oil will flow better and offer more cold start up protection versus a mid quality 5w. Considering the Pennzoil 10w-30 oil has a Viscosity Index of 147, it's no junk oil. A well formulated oil in 10w will often exceed or equal a 5w oil. I've attached a pic of a chart so maybe you'd understand better. If you find the lines for the 5w and 10w oils per test criteria, you'll see there isn't much difference. Formulating a good oil with a higher than usual Viscosity Index and it can equal or exceed a 5w. If you have the need for an oil that has good cold arctic start up temps, a 5w isn't going to provide much help over a 10w. If your cold start ups are minus 35, you need to be looking at a 0w synthetic based oil. It's all about the formulation and the base oils used that yields a higher VI oil and that is what makes the difference.



Just to add to this, are you aware that a 20 motor oil at 190F is the same viscosity as a 30 at 220F and a 40 at 240F? They will all be about the same viscosity.