I am coming up on my first oil change and was trying to see if there was a consensus on synthetic oil vs standard vs blend for the EB.

 

Motorcraft 5-30 blend.

 

5w30 Motorcraft synthetic blend, change it at least every 5k, if not sooner.

 

7,500-8,000 will work just fine..........

 

Labnerd, who knows what he's talking about, says that used oil analysis on the EB usually comes back pretty nasty by 5k. It's a byproduct of the direct injection.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...ution-oil.html

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...synthetic.html

Those are just 2 threads - open up the advanced search and search on posts made by Labnerd in the V-6 forum. Ignore all the Amsoil bashing, that doesn't pertain to this.

 

5k is being generous depending on what your doing with the truck, best thing to do would be to get an analysis done to see where you stand. Every engine is different.

Oil recommendations, take your pick depending on how much you want to spend. I personally ran Pennzoil Platinum in my EB. I switched over to German Castrol for my current truck though.

 

I would never waste my money on oil blends. By government regulation, they're only required to put as little as 15% synthetic oil into a "blend", to be able to call it as such. Mobile 1, Royal Purple or AMSOIL for me. Mobile1, while not quite as good as AMSOIL, is certainly more affordable. That's all I use in my vehicles these days.

 

The Motorcraft synthetic blend is less than half the price of full synthetics, and it's proven to be a very high quality oil.

 

One thing I can't help wondering about, is Ford specing a 5W-30 oil in a twin turbo V6 engine. I would much rather see a 0W-40 or 5W-50, especially for those who live in hotter climates.

I'm itching to add an oil temp gauge to see how things are doing inside.

 

They would prefer to spec a 5w20 like they do for most of their other engines for fuel economy reasons, but it becomes too diluted and broken down by the change interval.

 

I changed my oil for the first time on my 13 FX4 EB, I found Castrol Edge with Titanium tech 5w-30 at walmart. I did the first change at 900 miles, will do them anywhere from 3500-5000 depending on how hard she works. 6 quarts and filter was $50.... using a mobil one extended performance filter.

Also I noticed something on mine, if you look in the owners manual it states Motorcraft FL-500 as the filter part number. However if you go down to an auto parts store and look in the book or on their computer it will say Motorcraft FL-500S. I originally bought the FL-500S and when I took the original filter off, the 500S was a good inch shorter than the OEM filter. So off to the store I went to exchange and the Mobil 1 Extended filter is the same length/diameter as the OEM filter. I figure I want the same size as what was put on at the factory.

Here is a good test that was run by Amsoil. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

 

Sorry, but I don't get by much anymore. Here's some things for you EB owners to consider about the quality and the OCI for your trucks.Concerning fuel dilution, it lowers the load carrying capability of the oil. It promotes lube breakdown. Decreases viscosity and increases the chance of fire or explosion- I've seen 2 now explode doing a lot of damage to the truck. The top of the engine was basically gone and the hood and fenders are what caught it. The pan went out the bottom on fire. Fuel dilution causes excessive wear at the combustion zone. For those getting oil reports, it's not going to show up on FTIR/spectrscopy. You'll have to start getting 2 more tests done to get the full picture- gas chromotography and ferrography. Expect this to cost a couple hundred bucks. Fuel dilution causes sludge and varnish. It causes deposits to form on the intake parts as the engine tries to cook off the fuel and other contaminants via the EGR and PCV. There is no fuel system cleaner available to add to the fuel to clean this up. Oxidation rates double for every 18F increase in oil temps. Any metallic particulates will accelerate the temps even higher. As gas fuel decomposes in the engine, it creates resins, varnish, and acids. These are NOT oil soluble so once you have them, yer stuck with them. They must be manually removed or parts replaced. Those resins and varnish stick to the hotter parts of an engine like the piston skirts and they are known to completely fill the oil and compression piston ring grooves. Again, there is no magic in a bottle to help get rid of these.They are also finding what they refer to as "coffee grounds" sludge in these engines. It's removed mostly by trashing the engine but sometimes a hammer can break it up.Fuel dilution rates at over 6% will cause metal to metal contact at the bearings. This is not going to come out in FTIR folks so don't look for it in a 20 dollar report. You'll need a particle count or ferrography to tell the real story. Unfortunately I got to experience the last of my comments. The oil can turn to a grease like substance from fuel dilution. Nothing like losing oil pressure on a fairly new truck and having to walk in 100F+ temps. When we pulled the pan, it was full of a grease like substance. ALL of the motor oil makers are seeing this with the fuel dilution.

It's your truck obviously and you're the guy making the payments. To protect your investment I'd strongly suggest using a quality oil, it doesn't have to be a synthetic, a blend is fine but get the crap out of the engine at no farther than 5000 miles. If you run hard or tow a lot, I'd make that even sooner. Compared to the cost of the truck, an oil change is not expensive. Why gamble it?

 

I let the ford dealer change my oil in my work trucks. I had a 2010 for 106K and they did every oil change in it, at 5000 to 6000 miles. Never had an issue. I have taken this eb to them as well, and they put the motorcraft syn blend in it. I have no reason to think that its going to hurt the engine. I have run that same oil in my wifes escape and it has 95,000 on with no issues.

 

Will be changing my oil every 5k no matter what with the motorcraft.. Cheap insurance in my opinion

 

Good choice - and changing it every 5k or sooner, why pay twice the price for a premium synthetic when the MC blend does just as good a job?

I've been a fan of synthetic oils and extended drain intervals for many years - I used to be an Amsoil dealer - but if I had an Ecoboost I'd be using the MC blend and changing it often. In my 4.2 I use Mobil 1 EP and change it every 10k.