Yea this Hyundai was FWD and removing the oil pan wasnt a big deal. Just a pain because it was extra work just to get the engine to spin over. You could also remove the cylinder heads and try putting lube in the cylinders or even tap the pistons with a dead blow

 

I gave it 1 last try last night, removed fan and got a big socket on the crank bolt, braker bar, cheater bar, it wont move! At least I got the bolt out.

I'm about to start dis-assembling, getting those heads off would give me alot of room, then I could also lube and tap the pistons.

I have never pulled a engine out with the converter attached, dont know what to expect!

(see if this works)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...in/photostream

 

I got a good start yesterday! More today! 107 yesterday another 107 degrees coming today!

missing
fan
power steering bracket
upper intake
raditor hoses
heater hosed
some vac lines
coil
spark wires


http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...n/photostream/

 

You could take the engine out with the converter attached but it will make a huge mess and possibly damage the converter or transmission shaft.

 

Todays progress and other pictures of the head and lower intake, you gatta see this!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...57630755277554

Do more tommoro! 108 today (that sucks)

 

I got alittle more done! Pully the harmonic balancer, starter, exhause pipes, moter mounts threw bolts

One of the torq converter nuts is in doable range of getting to! 3 to go!

I did read where a guy stuck a box end skinny whench between the rear engine schild and the flex plate and got to the bolts. Anyone know anything about this practice! This could open some doors for guys with stuck engines.

Afew new pictures are up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18130316@N07/7663869674/

 

If it was me, I'd pull engine and trans together then split on the floor. Much Much easier.

Just my opinion.

 

That's what we wound up doing! We pulled the trans back just far enouigh to get a 6 point 9/16" boxend wrench on the torq converter nuts. That wrench was a must!!!!

After that we placed the block on a eng stand and removed the oil pan. Expected to see something twisted up or broken! But see nothing apparent.

Oil pump screen was not clogged but did have a few piece's of crud on it!

We did find metal shaving in the bottom of oil pan, some were large!
picture are up!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...in/photostream

Have not removed heads as of yet!

That's where i'm at now!

 

This same exact thing happened to me last year... i've yet to pull it apart. I'll be following this very closely. Are you planning on rebuilding that engine, or getting a new one? It seems that oreillys has crank rebuild kits for them.

 

I don'T know what I'm going to do! But money will half alot to do with any desision!


1 of the 4 main bearing was shot (didn't spin), took all the pistons out today, all the bearings are shot, lools like some moved within the rod!

Now the engine rotates! lol

I really dont know what I should expect when it comes to machine shop work are the cost.

Anyone help with this!!!

New pictures are up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...in/photostream

 

I think I found the problem tonight! 3 of the teeth on the oil pump drive gear are stripped, all the gears are worn sharp.

I had to use a puller to remove the cam gear, it does not slide off! LOL

If you ever have the timing cover off for any reason this would be something to look for!

new pictures are up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...in/photostream

 

Looks like the thrust washer might be missing or shot on the crank.

 

I'm not quite sure what your refering to. If its the large washer that the bolt go's thru, then to the center of the crank, I have it!

Got the cam and balance shaft out now, it looks rough!

New pictures are up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...in/photostream

 

There should be (for want of a better word) a shim on the crank shaft to keep it from moving front to back.

The pic of the rod bearings look like the crank has been moving back and forth, so the bearings are worn on the sides.

 

getting it a little warm for extended highway drive at 2,000 will chew up crank/rod bearings