This is a great write up. Excellent pictures, labels and explanation. I'm about to replace my timing cover gasket as well.

I'm curious, did you inspect the timing chain while you were I there? Any reason to replace it? What symptoms would indicate wear?

My 1997 has 150k miles on it now.

 

If you have a 1997, also replace the lower intake gaskets.

 

Did those about 5 years ago, was going to do the timing chain cover gasket then, but after replacing the lower intakes, there were no leaks (until now). Thought I would have sold the truck by the time I would have to worry about the timing cover gasket, but the truck runs great, is in good shape, and its paid for. Going to just keep driving it.

So in that case, since I have 150k on it and plan to drive the truck as far as it will go, is it worth putting a new timing chain in while im in there doing the gasket anyways? I usually say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," but this might be one of those rare exceptions. Thoughts?

 

If it were mine I would replace the timing chain.

 

Thanks

I looked at the chain and tensioner, and they looked like new (102K). I'm not sure you could really tell if the chain was worn ...

I made the decision not to change the chain/tensioner out based on not hearing much about failures of these engines caused by timing chains.

Good luck on your repair ...

 

Thanks for the ideas. I guess I will make a decision once I have everything apart. I'm hoping to not do anything with timing chain, unless it is pretty clear that it needs servicing. Thanks everyone, I'll keep ya posted on how the repair goes.

 

Got everything apart. Timing chain looks fine to me, so I'm going to leave it alone.

For the new replacement gaskets, would you recommend using new Ford ones from the dealer, or a parts store brand such as Fel Pro? I think Oreilly's has a set. I'm under the impression that the 1997 4.2l had the most issues with failing gaskets, so I want to be sure I'm putting in better ones.

For installation of the new gaskets, smear of RTV, high tack non hardening, or dry (nothing)? I know to put a bead around oil pan and noticed Fairlaner put a smear of RTV on his gaskets (again, well done write up, clear pictures and details

 

I have been using this as a tutorial to do my '99 4.2 v6 and I am here to confess my sins, and get some ideas: EXCELLENT WRITE UP BTW!!

First, some questions...
1. Wondering myself about the answer to the RTV question that metal13x had above. I have found great debate online, but I am leaning towards brushing Permatex High Tack (Reddish) on all surfaces of the timing cover and water pump.

2. As I removed the four water pump studs from the block, one of them let loose some liquid into my catch pan from somewhere...it was a quick "pee", and I didn't see exactly what it was or where it came from; the stud is badly rusted and now I am wondering if any of these penetrate the water jacket? If so, does anyone have a part number for these studs or know where to get them? None of them look that great, and I would like to go ahead and replace all of them...also what to use to seal the one(s) if they do penetrate the water jacket?

3. When re-installing the timing cover, does it go straight on or do you set it in the top of the oil pan and then lift the top to the block from there? I guess what I'm asking is, what is the best way to ensure the dowels are aligned so I don't mess up my bead of sealant?

Now for the sins:

Thou shalt not maketh an alignment mark for the cam position sensor on the timing cover, and then wash it off once the cover is removed.

Thou shalt not use an easy out on the broken temperature sensor bolt.

Thou shalt not ever, under any circumstances, and with any amount of heat, brute force, or ignorance applied, be permitted to pry that metal heater hose ASSembly from the top of the old water pump...it made me want to punch a puppy.

 

I need the timing gear sprocket on the back of the harmonic balancer since mine broke, I have a 1999 for f150 with a 4.2L V6 engine, and it needs to have the timing cover pulled to replace the component that drives the oil pump, and I broke the timing gear on the back of the balancer the other night trying to jack the motor up and remove the pan, stupid I know, but if you can tell me where I can find that ring, id appreciate it.

 

So I am going to answer my own question, or at least describe what I did:

I ended up using a Fel Pro PermaDry gasket as my replacement. They recommend installing these gaskets without the use of any sealer. I called an 800 number on the package and talked to a Fel Pro rep/tech and he confirmed the instruction of NOT to use any other kind of sealer (i.e. RTV) with the PermaDry gaskets.

HOWEVER, he personally suggested applying a coat of the high tack gasket sealer to assist with the installation of the PermaDry gasket. He made it clear though that using the high tack sealer, or any other sealer, with the gasket would void the warranty of the gasket.

Long story short, I applied a coat of the high tack spray-a-gasket to the new Fel Pro PermaDry timing chain cover gasket, applied a bead of RTV to the oil pan, slapped it all back together, and have been leak free since. Probably have put about 5000 miles on it since repair.

I really think there is more than one way to do something, so I'm not saying the way I did this is the best or right way, but it ended up working for me. Truck is still running strong with no leaks.

 

Gaskets is one of the places on any repair where I feel unsure as to exactly what to do. My thought is that too much sealant may get in the way of things fitting right. My thin layer of RTV on the gasket is kind of a hillbilly version of your spray gasket.

I too, have about 5000 miles since my repair, but its been three years ... obviously not driving the wheels off this thing lately.

 

If I had used a conventional style gasket, I would have done the exact same thing you did with yours. I've used a thin smear of RTV on regular type paper/cork gaskets for years on just about every gasket repair job.

The Fel Pro PermaDry gasket I used has 3 small fins or ridges along them that act as the "seal," therefore no need for RTV. Just wanted to try something different and share my experience with this gasket replacement approach. So far so good. Thanks again for the great write up. It was a huge help