Torque Converter

[jjboods]

I have added a K&N FIPK and a Borla Catback exhaust. I am not getting the speed that I want from these add-ons. I know that both HP gains boasted by the companies are "maximums", but there must be something more than I am getting. So, I have decided that my next mods will be a superchip and a torque converter. I have decided on a Superchips brand chip, but not on a torque converter. I have seen B&M and some other big names for $600+. I have also seen others for low to mid $200's. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ------------------ 1998 F150 Nascar Edition(removed the decals) 4.6L V8 4x2 Reg Cab Short Bed K&N Generation II FIPK Borla Split Rear CatBack Exhaust Stull Billett Grill KC Hilites 150watt daylighters behind the grill PIAA 1700 foglights in bumper APC Clear corner lenses Pirelli Scorpion ST (265/70/16)on factory Nascar Black Mag Wheels Bug deflector Side window deflectors Snapless Tonneau Cover Duraliner Bedliner Alpine Head unit Alpine Amp Boston Acoustics Speakers Bazooka Tube behind passenger seat Future Mods: Superchip Torque Converter JBA or Gibson Headers Edelbrock Throttle Body Airaid throttlebody spacer Traction Bars IAS or Reflex Shocks Anti-sway bars Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor Vortech Supercharger Underdrive Pulley Set Go Rhino Nerf bars Crystal Eyes Projector headlamps APC Euro Taillights

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[98SCREAMER]

Def. get a chip,they help quite a bit in my opinion. Also,instead of a TQ,you could try changing the rear gears for a 4:10,maybe.
If I remember correctly,the Nascars have a 3:73,right? We 98's are also lucky enough to change speedo gears to get the gauge to read correctly,from what I've heard..Good luck deciding,,,,98
Oh,one more thing,some have put the TB spacers in and lost power. Supercharged engines might benefit more from them,though.

------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT 4x2 Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
Yep,it has alot of stuff installed on it,I just got sick of lugging that huge sig. around,hehe
Come and see my newest pictures@ www.my-f150.com

Everything is shown there,except for the Superchip,Thanks Mike T!!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!

Now,if it only looked like this in real life

[max mitchell]

jjboods- Higher Stall TC tips: Add a trans cooler if your truck doesn't have the auxillary one (sorry, I didn't know on the Nascar). Make sure you price the TC installation as to know if it fits into your project budget ( trans removal can be VERY expensive).

------------------
2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.

[speeder]

Hi jjboods

If you want more low and midrange speed change the factory Y pipe. I just changed mine and the power i gained was amazing.
If you do this mod look at the factory Y pipe after it`s removed from your truck and you will see what a piece of crap it is.
It`s called a Y collector you can get one from jegs part# 389-Y250300A cost 37.99
or summit part# FLO-Y250300A cost 37.95
Hope this helps you out.

Larry.

[jjboods]

Speeder,

I checked out the part at Summit, yes, I am a rookie, but I don't see where this Y pipe will fit. Will I need additional pipe? Also, I believe the Borla exhaust is 2.5", this Y pipe is 3". Help?

JJ

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by speeder:
Hi jjboods

If you want more low and midrange speed change the factory Y pipe. I just changed mine and the power i gained was amazing.
If you do this mod look at the factory Y pipe after it`s removed from your truck and you will see what a piece of crap it is.
It`s called a Y collector you can get one from jegs part# 389-Y250300A cost 37.99
or summit part# FLO-Y250300A cost 37.95
Hope this helps you out.

Larry.</font>

------------------
1998 F150 Nascar Edition(removed the decals)
4.6L V8 4x2 Reg Cab Short Bed
K&N Generation II FIPK
Borla Split Rear CatBack Exhaust
Stull Billett Grill
KC Hilites 150watt daylighters behind the grill
PIAA 1700 foglights in bumper
APC Clear corner lenses
Pirelli Scorpion ST (265/70/16)on factory Nascar Black Mag Wheels
Bug deflector
Side window deflectors
Snapless Tonneau Cover
Duraliner Bedliner
Alpine Head unit
Alpine Amp
Boston Acoustics Speakers
Bazooka Tube behind passenger seat

Future Mods:
Superchip
Torque Converter
JBA or Gibson Headers
Edelbrock Throttle Body
Airaid throttlebody spacer
Traction Bars
IAS or Reflex Shocks
Anti-sway bars
Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor
Vortech Supercharger
Underdrive Pulley Set
Go Rhino Nerf bars
Crystal Eyes Projector headlamps
APC Euro Taillights

[jjboods]

Thanks for the info. How would I know about the cooler, where would it be? How much should I expect to pay for the install? Do I need to spend the big money on the big name product or is the no name just as good?

JJ

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by max mitchell:
jjboods- Higher Stall TC tips: Add a trans cooler if your truck doesn't have the auxillary one (sorry, I didn't know on the Nascar). Make sure you price the TC installation as to know if it fits into your project budget ( trans removal can be VERY expensive).

</font>

[max mitchell]

jjboods- Higher stall speed increases transmission heat. If the Nascar has a cooler, it would be in front of the radiator on the left side facing the front of the vehicle. It has lines that you can follow to the driver's side of the radiator tank (the non-auxiliary cooler). Cost?? Although the convertor only costs several hundred dollars, the install would cost 3 or 4 times that much. You have to remove the transmission. Any reputable mechanic would inspect the front pump bearing and seal in the transmission at the least. Personally, I wouldn't let my vehicle be disassembled and pay through the nose for such minimal improvements. It is a good addition when the transmission is removed for other reasons. I would use all that money for a gear change or towards a supercharger. If you do buy one, go with a good name (even B&M makes the convertors with modified/improved "USED" cores). Also, the Y-pipe will fit; it requires custom installation on all 3 pipes. You use the size exit that your cat back takes; either 2.5" or 3". You use the largest one that the pipe is after it. Even with a 2.5" Y-pipe, the design and flow is better than the OEM one. I'm shocked that an engineer even signed off on the OEM unit. I hope this helps you some.

[jjboods]

Well, since the people at Borla are liars and only concerned with the sale and not customer service afterwards, I am in a jam. The catback system that their salespeople and their website claim fits a reg cab short bed, does not fit without modifications. I had to cut one of their pipes and the pipe between the cat on the passenger side to just where it splits to the pipe for the cat on the driver side. Flowmaster says that cutting their ypipe will affect performace. So...there is not enough room between the muffler and the cat unless I can eliminate the pipe that they supply for that area. Then, I am replacing the stainless steel for aluminized steel. I'll take a peak this weekend, but any further advice would be great.

Thanks,
John

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by max mitchell:
jjboods- Higher stall speed increases transmission heat. If the Nascar has a cooler, it would be in front of the radiator on the left side facing the front of the vehicle. It has lines that you can follow to the driver's side of the radiator tank (the non-auxiliary cooler). Cost?? Although the convertor only costs several hundred dollars, the install would cost 3 or 4 times that much. You have to remove the transmission. Any reputable mechanic would inspect the front pump bearing and seal in the transmission at the least. Personally, I wouldn't let my vehicle be disassembled and pay through the nose for such minimal improvements. It is a good addition when the transmission is removed for other reasons. I would use all that money for a gear change or towards a supercharger. If you do buy one, go with a good name (even B&M makes the convertors with modified/improved "USED" cores). Also, the Y-pipe will fit; it requires custom installation on all 3 pipes. You use the size exit that your cat back takes; either 2.5" or 3". You use the largest one that the pipe is after it. Even with a 2.5" Y-pipe, the design and flow is better than the OEM one. I'm shocked that an engineer even signed off on the OEM unit. I hope this helps you some.</font>

[max mitchell]

The Y-pipe is installed back further from the factory one so the driver's side pipe can be 90 degreed. Both pipes then run straight back into the Y-pipe. So, both inlets and part of the intermediate pipe (the exit)are modified (shortened or lengthened). After re-reading the thread, I realized that in fact "this Y" would be your only non-stainless steel part. Billycouldride (another member) had this same problem and had a custom stainless steel Y-pipe made. I'm sure he'll be along soon to enlighten us fully. All of my exhaust mods were planned in aluminized steel. If you do this "all stainless steel" method, I would suggest that you also order a universal stainless steel 2.5" mandrel bent 90 degree pipe for the driver's side to Y-pipe/intermediate pipe mod (not likely that your custom pipe installer will have this).

[jjboods]

What do you think of a T pipe instead of a Y? That way I could run the 90 degree pipe from the drivers side straight into a T that connects the passenger side cat and the muffler.

[max mitchell]

A T-pipe will give you a larger outlet, and fix the reduced inlet diameter of the driver's side pipe to the OEM Y-pipe; the OEM one is practically a T-pipe. This is not remotely a good design for flow though (neither is the OEM one). You don't want the driver's side exhaust flow to bombard/compete with the passenger's side flow at a 90 degree angle, nor do you want the driver's side flow slamming into the side of the passenger's side pipe, then making a drastic turn. A smooth transition and merging is optimal, that's why all the aftermarket one's are designed the other way. The preferred method is a smooth, funnel design merging at the same angle.

[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 06-01-2001).]

[jjboods]

Thanks, I'll have to look into it and figure something out.