I believe Ford says every 30,000 miles (but I might be wrong). Here's what I do...
I drop the pan, change filter at 10,000 miles. After that, I just pull the plug on the pan and torque converter every 10,000 miles or once a year, unless I find the oil is burned or contaminents are seen (yes, prior to disposing, I use a magnet and my fingers & eyes to check the fluid while its in the drain pan). If it calls for Mercon 1, I use mercon III (semi synthetic). If it calls for Mercon V, then use Mercon V. I prefer Valvoline ATF and Wix filters.
I pick up the oil on sale for about $1/qt.
FYI, I'm not real big on having a system pressure flushed...this is why;
It requires you to loosen/disconnect pressure fittings and then reconnect when you're done. The more a fitting is "Broken", more more chance of a leak occurring. Now although it is true that you cannot get all of the fluid out with the way I do it, with only 1/2 quart remaining in the entire system, thats about 98% fresh fluid. Combined with the frequent "Dumps" which are "clean & easy", most if not all of the contaminents are removed from the system. Also with the pressure flush, they are reversing the flow which pushes all the contaminents out the filter & back into the pan. If you have trapped contaminents in the filter, IMO, remove the filter.....don't flush it out into the pan where they are re-suspended.
Many have had excellent results with pressure flushing and other techniques as well, and I do not want to imply that pressure flushing is "inadequate" or a "bad thing", because it is not.
I have done this in all my vehicles with auto's for 20+ years, never had a tranny failure yet. (and belive me, my wife knows how to race!)
Jeff
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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
[This message has been edited by beechkid (edited 03-03-2001).]
When I went to the dealer to have my fuel lines checked they said that my tranny fluid needs changed. I don't know how they know if it does. When I bought the truck it had 54,000 on it and I don't know if it has ever been changed. They said it smelled burnt so I smelled it and it does smell a little burnt. I might get it changed but not through them.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by beechkid: Now although it is true that you cannot get all of the fluid out with the way I do it, with only 1/2 quart remaining in the entire system, thats about 98% fresh fluid. Combined with the frequent "Dumps" which are "clean & easy", most if not all of the contaminents are removed from the system. Also with the pressure flush, they are reversing the flow which pushes all the contaminents out the filter & back into the pan. If you have trapped contaminents in the filter, IMO, remove the filter.....don't flush it out into the pan where they are re-suspended. </font>
Jeff,
There is no way to reverse flush a transmission. It isn't possible.
The flush systems open a cooler line. As fluid is drained out new fluid is pumped into the other half of the cooler line. The flow is maintained in the same direction as when the transmission is operating.
I think you said that your method of draining the pan gets out all but 1/2 quart. Actually your method gets out all but the 6-7 quarts that are in the torque converter and other parts of the transmission.
The systems might have changed in terms of flow direction, but it still does not remove the contaminents in the filter. When I dump the ATF oil at the pan & the converter (in my wifes V8 Cougar for example), this requires about 13 1/2 quarts to replace. According to the factory manual, the total system capacity is 14 quarts, so we have removed about 98% of the fluid. However you are correct, that if I only pulled the drain plug on the transmission (and not the torque converter also), I would only be dumping about 5 quarts.
Jeff
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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
I'm going to get my tranny flushed and have my filter changed on the 12th. $145 for both at dealer. I have 55k and have no idea if it has been done or not.
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1997 XLT Teal 4.6L Flareside 4x4 ORP. Automatic, Reg. cab, 3.55LS, tinted windows, bug deflector, Dual exhaust, K&N Generation 2 air filter, BullDog keyless entry/remote start(installed myself), Modern 16" wheels, bedliner, Covercraft tonneau cover, White faced gauges, electronic shift on the fly, Clarion ADX5655z Double Din Cassette & CD, 2 Pioneer TS-A6865 speakers and superchip. Going to add headers.
While at the Ford dealer yesterday to get my first oil change (on the house)
I inquired about the trans flush system.
The guy said they hook into the cooling line and flush out the old while injecting the new, behind it. SOUNDS GOOD SO FAR
Then I asked So how do you change the paper filter in the pan. He said in a 97 T-Bird with the 4.6 V8, there is no paper filter, there is only a screen. And it gets back flushed and cleaned as the system works.
Does anyone know if the filter thing is true or not??
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2001 Lariat SCrew Oxford White / House of Kolor Sunset Orange Pearl 2Tone.
TruckMaster Designs FD630-S AirDam,AirAid,Gibson9504/Split Rear Exhaust,Fac Moon Roof,3:55LS,6CD,Gen III/Beige,Steps,Slider,Tow,Capt's,Bed Extd, Bell Tech 2" Shackles
In my wife's 97 Cougar Sport, V8, it has a paper filter. However, if it does have a metal screen,the screen is permanent, it is also a good system. If they made a replacement one for my wifes car I'd do it in a minute. However, something to consider...
Between residual items from assembly and initial wear factors, I would definitely request the pan be dropped and the screen removed, cleaned and reinstalled, just to get rid of anything that might be floating around.
In regards to disconnecting the cooler lines, yes that is how it is accomplished, but I just have a concern about loosening a pressure connection that is not leaking, numerous times over the life of the equipment when there are alternate methods to drain the oil in the pan & converter....I just dread fixing pressure line leaks, just my own "thing"...opinion, etc.
Jeff
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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
[This message has been edited by beechkid (edited 03-07-2001).]
After changing the fluid on Nick at 12,000 miles, the filter was opened for inspection (I posted something about it in a thread about 6 months ago) -- and the filter is substantial enough that I'm not planning on changing it at 24,000 miles when the fluid will be changed again. I'm thinking of using a run-till-empty, 5-qt fill, and run-till-empty method someone outlined somewhere on this web.
Things you should know about your car's transmission
1. Why do automatic transmissions wear out?
An automatic transmission is usually considered worn-out when it slips. Slippage is caused by a loss of fluid pressure due to the shrinking of the internal seals and/or worn or torn clutch facing.
2. What do you do when you rebuild a transmission?
An automatic transmission rebuild kit only contains gaskets, seals, and band materials. In some cases clutch disks and other hard parts also need replacement.
3. What causes a transmission to shift rough?
Varnish buildup in the accumulator valves preventing the piston from moving up and down freely during fluid engagement causes rough shifting. This shock can cause the clutch faces to tear and rebuilding the clutch pack will become necessary.
4. What causes a transmission to hesitate before engaging?
Varnish buildup in the valve body causes the valves to stick until sufficient pressure builds up to break them loose. This condition can also cause blown seals.
5. Why do manufacturers recommend changing a transmission’s fluid and filter?
To get rid of suspended contamination such as: varnish, band and clutch fibers, and other materials that have not already deposited out and to restore full volume flow through the filter.
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Flush and fill of fluid?
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