I installed the transgo stage2 kit today using stage 1. I think I incorrectly drilled the holes in the valve body because it really snaps out of 1st and 2nd. The original problem between 3rd and 4th was why I installed it in the first place, this part (D to OD) is great. Exactly what I was looking for. No more fishing for that lower gear going up a hill. Perfect. I was just hoping that going out of 1st and 2nd wouldn't be so harsh.
Anyone out there remember the specifics of drilling the holes in you valve body. I drilled at the X's according to the diagram but drilled straight down going though to the other side at least with one hole at .067". I think maybe I was supposed to go in at an angle into the valve cavity, relieving that pressure. Maybe I didn't drill deep enough or wide enough. Help, I'm clueless here. Is it supposed to pop so hard? Even at half throttle? Might have accidentally drilled the race pack option. 2nd gear wants to stall.
Anyways, I might be looking at buying a non-mutilated valve body and starting over. Any thought here? Part numbers, Good source for cheap?
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97 XLT SC 3:55, 4.6L, 3.5" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, 6CD, Auto, BFG 285/75/16 on stock alloys, Trans-go stage 2 (using stage 1)
FUTURE mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's, ARB air lockers @ 4:10, 4:34 or 4:56
<creativepen@yahoo.com>
Bad news, it's a dealer part and your not gonna find it aftermarket, part number is F81P-7A100-AA. (that's a 98 part number, but I think it's the same, be sure to specify the year when you order the part, the main difference from any given year would be minor but they do change them every few years. As a general rule, you can go up in years but not back, for instance you can use a 97, 98, 99 or 00 but not a 96, also there was a major change on the '01 so it prolly won't work.)
The drill was supposed to go between the chambers not through the valve body.
Just pull the valve body back off, clean and dry it and solder the hole you drilled and drill the correct hole. Should be a little work but not a brain drain. If solder doesn't work use something like J B Weld. That stuff stick to anything.
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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, Gaylord Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs,Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Sway Bar Bushings, 265 70 16 tires, Rancho RS9000 shocks
HI!... THE WHITE MONKEY : I hope your "WORDING" of what you drilled out was just incorrect. You are supposed to drill out existing holes in the separator plate, not holes in the valve body. If you drilled holes in the (ALUMINUM) valve body then it is pretty much screwed! I've installed many shift kits in my time, HURST, B&M, TRANS GO, and a BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit in my F-150, on stage 5. Most shift kits out there you only drill out existing holes in the separator plate to larger ones according to the stage og kit you desire. You also usually have to swap out some springs in the valve body to softer or stronger ones, and occasionally a check ball if your going with a severe drag race program. Hope this helps you out.
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NEAL [ the horsepower freak ] NEWMAN
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, modified POWERAID spacer, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan.
FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD, traction bars, and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA supercharger.
ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 345H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.
OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc
Well, took it into the shop (the valve body & the instructions) and after a stern talking to, a few laughs, some public humiliation and lots of ribbing we figured it out and I got everything installed correctly and working. Luckily I didn't screw up bad enough to need a new valve body. The holes went into a closed chamber. So in theory, once that chamber is full the kit should operate as designed. Next time I have it apart I'll either jam some alum. welding rod in there or replace it with a used one ($125) or just leave it as is. I didn't do the 2nd accumulator. Wish I had. That'll be a next time too. At least I know there's plenty of clean fluid in there.
Okay, here's the gag. I had done the springs and valves and reinstalled the whole thing without using ANY checkballs.#$%^ OR a under the plate gasket. Honestly, having never done it before. The instructions were a bit confusing. It said checkballs, so I looked down and said, "Yeah, I've got two." Honestly, I didn't see any checkballs when I took it apart. Anyways, problem solved, trouble thwarted again. Let's just say I won't be making those 3 mistakes over again anytime real soon.
Almost embarrased to reply and tell everyone about my bonehead move, but, luckily all turned out well in the end. "Check balls"
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97 XLT SC 3:55, 4.6L, 3.5" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, 6CD, Auto, BFG 285/75/16 on stock alloys, Trans-go stage 2 (using stage 1)
FUTURE mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's, ARB air lockers @ 4:10, 4:34 or 4:56
<creativepen@yahoo.com>
Never be ashamed to post anything here, including mistakes, as it all helps to increase the knowledge level here, and that's what F-150 Online is all about.
Thanks for sharing & contributing, & glad to hear it was rather simple to correct!
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Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer
Don't be embarrassed by that. I forgot that I had read about the white nylon plug from the filler pipe and when I found it in the pan I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out where it goes until it was decided it goes in the trash can.
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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, Gaylord Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs,Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Sway Bar Bushings, 265 70 16 tires, Rancho RS9000 shocks
I did notice when the checkballs were out it did a really nice firm shift between 3rd & 4th. Especially downshifting to third while in cruise. As it stands now, it's back to fishing around for 3rd, (@#$%^) i.e. it finds its way to right in between gears when the computer says it needs more power. Seems like my clutch plates are spent, but I'm not quit ready to pay for a new trans. I truely think it can be dialed in to work. I can manually override with the OD off switch but was hoping the shift kit would fix this. Which it did with all the checkballs out, at least for 3-4 only. By the way, I haven't changed my VSS gear so this may be contributing to my problem. So, I'll try and find out from Transgo which checkball or checkballs I can take out to correct this kick down problem.
If it's worth doing... My reusable pan gasket's getting a workout.
It does perform much better than stock. WOT is pretty cool. You can really feel the computer starve the engine in the higher RPM's. Half throttle is a little soft for my taste. Gee wiz, I've always kinda hated these AODE's. But I hate shifting stick in a truck even more. It's 98% there, just gotta figure out the 3-4 thing. And save up for a chip.
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97 XLT SC 3:55, 4.6L, 3.5" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, 6CD, Auto, BFG 285/75/16 on stock alloys, Trans-go stage 2 (using stage 1)
FUTURE mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's, ARB air lockers @ 4:10, 4:34 or 4:56
<creativepen@yahoo.com>
Location: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F-150
Posts: 5,074
Like a supervisor where I used to work says,,,"If you've never messed anything up,,,,,You've never done anything....."
I've mentioned one of mine on here before also. I was replacing the carb on one of my old cars once,and one of the rubber gasket grommets stayed on the intake..After two hours of tuning and idle screw adjusting,,,Trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. I saw that the carb wasn't sitting level. I said a few curse words and
removed it and it ran fine after that. I was
lucky I didn't warp the baseplate....so,don't feel too foolish, It's happened to all of us,,,,,,98
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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam, etc..etc.......
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.Billet grilles on order
Hoping for deliverance from door crack hell.
Thanks 98, I generally learn by trial and error. Just seems to work out that way.
Here's another question for you guys:
Would sub-par brake booster peformance be at any way related to transmission line pressure?
I called the guy at transgo. He mentioned a couple holes I could drill 10% bigger on the plate to make the upshifts more immediate. (2nd & 3) I'm considering the B&M line pressure mod if that doesn't work($40). Still, I need to get that 2nd accumulator piston taken care of once I have all the appropriate gaskets in place AND change the VSS gear for my 285/75/16's. Any hints or trick here? Anything and everything is appreciated.
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97 XLT SC 3:55, 4.6L, 3.5" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, 6CD, Auto, BFG 285/75/16 on stock alloys, Trans-go stage 2 (using stage 1)
FUTURE mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's, ARB air lockers @ 4:10, 4:34 or 4:56
<creativepen@yahoo.com>
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I think I fried my valve body
Linear Mode
