Just received my Transgo kit and was looking over the instructions and tape. I've turned wrenches for years but I've never done a shift kit before so I hope I don't screw it up!! I noticed other posts mention of setting different levels, just how exactly do you do this?
I just received mine as well and have secured the oil, filter and drain plug kit. I do have a couple of questions that maybe some of the other folks out there can answer (since I went cheap and bought the kit w/o the video).
1. The TransGo kit came with two orange seals, about 1.5" in diameter, bagged seperately. There isn't any explanation as to where these are to go, except for a half sheet of paper stating basically, install these correctly or they won't work." What are they for?
2. Since I have a 4wd with a 4R70W, there is a mini-sump in the bottom of the pan. I assume, judging by the new filter, that the filter's intake "snout" extends somewhat into this area. Would it be safe to install the drain plug in the center of the bottom of this sump?
3. If it is safe (#2 above), has anyone ever drilled the sump prior to dropping the pan so as to allow the oil to drain out there? I know that it will run all over the drill until I get the bit out of the hole, but better that than have it go God knows where when I drop the pan.
JPBigony,
In my kit the two large O rings were for "if you have the transmission out", I did not install them. Also, maybe someone in your area would be willing to share their instruction video with you. It really helps in the removal and reinstallation of the valve body if you have never done it before. Post your area and see what replies you get.
I have my transmission drain in the "snout" but not centered. It is more to the front drivers side at about 10 o’clock and worked fine. I think it is a great idea to drill first to remove the trans fluid (where were you when I did mine). I think many will benefit from that idea in the future. You may want to use a smaller drill bit to save your drill some mess, and then open it up later. Remember to leave room for the drain valve on the inside.
There are quite a few posts here with what stage to use. Mine is drilled between stage one and two using my own drill bit. It will chirp second at WOT but not if I remove the Superchip (I had it out while on vacation). The shifts are firm but comfortable while easy driving.
The best of luck to both of you.
__________________
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JPBigony,
I just noticed in your signature that you live in Bowie. I live in Manchester and work in Baltimore. Send me an Email with a phone number and maybe I can get a copy of the tape to you.
Make sure you put the rectangular bowl shaped screen back into the trans before you re-install the valve body (DOH).
Make sure you remember to remove the paper clip or cotter pin holding the EPC valve together after you bolt it to the valve body (DOH#2).
On mine, the picture in the directions did not exactly match my valve body for check balls. Before you dump them out, note (by picture or sketch) exactly where they are. Then you'll replace all but one of them!
__________________
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WLF,
Thanks for the info. Again I notice that you mention stage 1 and stage 2, I didn't find any mention of these stages in my Transgo kit. Are there more than one type of these Transgo kits?
The first drilling instruction is for drilling two holes in the valve body. The second instruction is for drilling the valve body plate.
It is this second drilling instruction when you drill the first hole in the valve body plate (cant remember if it is 1 or A) that you are given a choice of three different drill sizes. That is what determines how hard it shifts. The larger the hole, the harder the shift. Three drill sizes are provided and so three stages of hardness..
WLF,
Thanks!! I see where the instructions show to drill two holes in the body but it didn't mention any options, it just said to drill two .093 holes!! Now I understand your other post regarding the .093 drill bit. I guess it worked out to be the 3/32". Appreciate the help, I'll give it a go this weekend hopefully.
01screw,
It is not the .093 holes that are adjustable. They are in the valve body.
It is the first hole you drill in the PLATE. This is a seporate instruction and a different part of the valve body. The plate is the first thing removed from the valve body and has many holes in it. The instructions direct you where to find the holes that need to be drilled and what size to drill them.
The two holes in the valve body are .093. Do not drill them any other size...
If you don't see what I mean then when I get home today I will find the page on the instructions to refer you to.
WLF,
Wow, thanks for clearing that up!! I think I found what you're talking about, directions state exactly:
"Plate hole sizes"
#1 & 1A = .067
#2 = .067 Police-taxis-truck & mild street rod
#2 = 3-32" Hot rod with original converter
#2 = 1-8" with smaller diameter high stall converter
#3,4 and 5 = Leave as is.
#6 = 1/8"
I guess the option lies with the #2 hole. Sorry, I'll get this right sooner or later!! Better to ask stupid questions than to make dumb mistakes!!
Yea thats it. Must be the #2 hole then. That makes the difference in the three firmness settings. Mine is between th .067 and the 3/32 size.
Hope everything goes well. Have fun. Not really that hard of an install.
On mine, the picture in the directions did not exactly match my valve body for check balls. Before you dump them out, note (by picture or sketch) exactly where they are. Then you'll replace all but one of them!
[url=Transgo Check Balls]
What do you mean by dump the check balls and then you'll replace all but one, I did not see any replacement check ball in my kit, the instruction page just shows where they are located but no other instructions, now I am
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dragonboy,
There is one check ball that does not go back in.
I hope you did not put them all back in. If so, I hope you put in a drain valve while you had the pan down, you will need it.
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