4.2 V6 w/manual tranny grinding 1/2 shift, HELP!!

ShawnQ · #1 02-06-2002, 12:14 AM

My cousin bought his f150 new in 99, then around august of last year he traded it in on a mustang. Well, recently we have been seeing it at the local dealer again, and he went up there and bought it back because he regretted trading it. It has the 4.2, and it's 2wd 5 speed. It had about 45k miles when he traded it, and right at about 59k now.

Now, however, the 1/2 shift grinds just about every time, unless you wait for a while to put it into gear. Could this be the brake fluid? The ABS light is on (not sure why yet, he just got the truck back), and the brakes seem weird, so I'm hoping it is just the fluid, or air in the lines.

We did notice that even when the truck is off, it is almost impossible to get the tranny into 2nd. Does this sound like synchros or clutch problems?

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks

Shawn

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Bubbadewsky · #2 02-06-2002, 02:34 PM

I used to rebuild Ford 10 bolt top loader trannys and when this problem occured it was always the synchronizer blocking rings (expanding in diameter) after changing rings a few times I would have to replace the whole synchronizer assembly. This was on a 1970 SCJ 429 Torino Cobra and always caused by "speed shifting" and mostly when a gear was missed. The newer trannys may be different but certainly not as tough.

ShawnQ · #3 02-06-2002, 05:04 PM

that's what I was worried about...

What does replacing synchros usually cost?

I really wish that a better tranny would bolt right up...

Shawn

Bubbadewsky · #4 02-06-2002, 06:33 PM

Call Ford Parts and check the price, you may only need the blocking ring, there are some dealers that sell discount and some that sell discount "on line" Since it's a 2 wd you may be able to remove the tranny and do it yourself or have a shop do it. I have never worked on a 5 speed but they shouldn't be much more difficult than the old 10 bolt top loader. You will need to get (borrow) a long pin to hold the needle bearings in place in the cluster gear.-------------Are you sure the clutch is OK make sure it is releasing completely when pushed a few in. from the flooor

ShawnQ · #5 02-07-2002, 01:33 AM

I'll check prices. The dealer just cut my cousin a check for 600 dollars to help him cover the cost, even though it is out of warranty.

It's a lifted 2wd, so the tranny will be easy to get out...that wont be a prob.

About the clutch, how can I check to make sure it is totally disengaging? This was my first guess on the problem, because this truck was honestly babied up until it was traded at 49k miles, now it has 59 and he got it back. 10k miles can't do too too much damage, you know? I do know that the previous owner ran over something and busted a brake line on the drivers front, and I am thinking maybe they lines weren't bled right for air pockets, you know? And he figured the truck was having tranny trouble so he just traded it in...

I do know that if you let the RPM's drop down a little bit before shifting, it grinds very little or not at all, but if you shift normally, it will grind. It is also almost impossible to get into gear when the truck is off.

Thanks

Shawn

Bubbadewsky · #6 02-07-2002, 10:38 AM

Easy way is to jack up both back wheels--- put the tranny is gear--- push clutch all the way to floor--- start and run engine, wheels should not turn-------wheels should not turn until clutch is atleast a few in. from floor. If the wheels are turning when the engine is running and clutch to floor it signals clutch problems