I've never really tried to do a break stand in my truck, but this weekend I was feeling sassy and tried, but couldn't get the rear wheels loose. Also the engine wouldn't rev past 2K. Is this due to my 3.55 gears and disk brakes in the back? Or is something wrong?
Any input would be appreciated, thanks
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I think you are talking about power braking. Your truck won't do this because of you ltd. slip axle, and your tires probably have a good amount of tread. Besides, its really bad for the truck.
Yeah, I know it's bad for it, that's why I've never really tried. I just got really spooked when nothing was spinning and the engine didn't rev about 2K.
It sounds like you are applying too much break.
Apply only enough break pressure to keep the front wheels locked. Too much pressure and the rear wheels will lock too. Practice makes perfect. get a plastic jug and wet your tires first. Do this till you get the hang of locking only the front wheels. Good luck.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD 5speed w/Modified Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, Troyer E-fans, Procharger @12psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
You know I was hoping Neal wouldn't see this post (for fear of smart A$$ remarks, but I always thought it was better to be a smart A$$ than a dumb A$$). And I've seen those 1 minute burn outs Neal, impressive!
Thanks for the tips there JMC. I was putting the breaks to the floor.
I'll give it a try later. My dodge buddy with his puny 318 and 4.10 gears does then real easy, so I tried and nothing....man was he laughing at me! I still just point out that he only runs 16.3 and I run 15.7! That shuts him up good!
Quick question, I have tried this today for no reason what so ever, on a loose dirt. The wheels do spin and go beyond 2000 rpm on Drive and and on 1st Gear but it wont budge on 2nd Gear and Reverse, it just revs up to 2000 RPM.
Is this mean my tranny is messed up? I have a '98 Lincoln Navigator 4X4.
HI!... 5150PHD : Actually the tires only had about an 1/8TH of tread left on them before the burnouts. All burnouts were done on the same afternoon. The reason I did them was because the tires were ready to be changed, so I figured I'd have some fun before getting rid of them. I had the four new tires and rims in the bed at the time of the burnouts. That was done in a new industrial area on a brand new concrete road with 26PSI in the rear tires. The big burnout was done in 1st and 2nd gear. There was NO WATER usage to get the tires to spin. It was done dry.
I would not dare try this with my new expensive truck. I won't give away my age but back before all these new hitech antilock brakes stuff we used to put a clamp on the hose to the back brakes. This would render the back brakes ineffective and only the front would work. This used to work with the old muscles cars of the late 60's and early 70's. I would not try this on a new truck as I am not sure if this would have adverse effects on proportioning valve and antilock stuff.
Neal...
Hence forth you will no longer be called the HP Freak, your new title will be "Baron of Burnout".
I figured you had some shot tires to do that on. I sent that mpg out to some friends and they all said "Damn!" If I get the opportunity, I try and capture my burnout, once I get the hang of it.
Ricekicker, I hope you got some reading time on your hands cuz untill recently Neal had a list of mods about a half mile long in his signature, LOL!!
PHD, the front brakes on a car or truck do about 75% of the stopping, for that reason the proportioning valve only sends pressure to the front brakes when you apply moderate pressure to the brake pedal to keep the rear brakes from locking up all the time. Only when you really mash on the brake pedal do the rear brakes begin to opreate. Try just enough pedal effort to keep it from rolling or just enough that it rolls very slowly.
How about the "PRINCE OF PEELOUTS"??
What........you could do better? Give it a shot!
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