Is it possible shop put wrong transmission in my truck?
#1
Is it possible shop put wrong transmission in my truck?
I have a 2004 5.4 new body style supercab auto transmission.
When I look at Ford ETIS build sheet and when I check the code on the door sticker, I see that my truck was built with a 4R75E transmission.
Recently, at 140,000 miles, that transmission bit the dust, so I took it to what I believe and heard from many is a reputable transmission shop.
For $3,000, they put in a rebuilt transmission. The one in there was damaged beyond repair.
Interestingly, the invoice says that they put in a 4R75W transmission.
From my research, the difference between the 4R75W and 4R75E is confusing, but seems to be that the E model has a turbine speed sensor whereas the W does not.
Is it even possible that they put in a W model? Would it even work? It seems like it would throw all kinds of codes without the sensor output feed.
I have driven it and it drives fine... smooth and shifts cleanly.
I crawled under it and looked for some kind of identifying mark, but I couldn't see the model stamped on it and I really don't know what I'm looking for on the sensors. But I am able to crawl with a flashlight if there is some key identifier you know about.
Thanks
When I look at Ford ETIS build sheet and when I check the code on the door sticker, I see that my truck was built with a 4R75E transmission.
Recently, at 140,000 miles, that transmission bit the dust, so I took it to what I believe and heard from many is a reputable transmission shop.
For $3,000, they put in a rebuilt transmission. The one in there was damaged beyond repair.
Interestingly, the invoice says that they put in a 4R75W transmission.
From my research, the difference between the 4R75W and 4R75E is confusing, but seems to be that the E model has a turbine speed sensor whereas the W does not.
Is it even possible that they put in a W model? Would it even work? It seems like it would throw all kinds of codes without the sensor output feed.
I have driven it and it drives fine... smooth and shifts cleanly.
I crawled under it and looked for some kind of identifying mark, but I couldn't see the model stamped on it and I really don't know what I'm looking for on the sensors. But I am able to crawl with a flashlight if there is some key identifier you know about.
Thanks
#3
Thanks, GLC. I agree that's usually good advice.
Here's why I'm interested. The shop originally quoted $3000 for a rebuild, but was unable to rebuild it. When the guy called, he said he had good news that he could replace it for the same price. So I'm wondering... was he able to do that because he found some way to get a W model in there instead of an E. The invoice does say W.
Also, this was just last week and I've been out of town, so I've driven it about 50 miles. I am scheduled to go back for a 2-week leak check (and yes, it is leaking) and I want to know as much as I can.
Thanks for sharing what you know. I know the W/E issue has been discussed a lot, but I can't find the answer to the question I'm asking.
Here's why I'm interested. The shop originally quoted $3000 for a rebuild, but was unable to rebuild it. When the guy called, he said he had good news that he could replace it for the same price. So I'm wondering... was he able to do that because he found some way to get a W model in there instead of an E. The invoice does say W.
Also, this was just last week and I've been out of town, so I've driven it about 50 miles. I am scheduled to go back for a 2-week leak check (and yes, it is leaking) and I want to know as much as I can.
Thanks for sharing what you know. I know the W/E issue has been discussed a lot, but I can't find the answer to the question I'm asking.