Rebuilding trans - should I replace torque convertor?
#1
Rebuilding trans - should I replace torque convertor?
Quick rundown:
2004 F150 screw
4WD, 4R75W trans
5.4 engine
I origionally lost overdrive, and replaced the O/D servo. O/D would not engage, and had a few broken servo springs when I dropped the valve body. These were replaced, and transfer put back together.
Afterward, trans seemed to work properly, but I underfilled it by A LOT. Like 6 quarts. It wasn't driven more than back and forth in the driveway a couple times. That was corrected and I went about my merry way.
A week later, I lost virtually all forward movement. I had to rev the engine to get drive to engage. Checked fluid, still full.
Therefore, I decided to rebuild the trans. I found the lip seal inside the forward drum damaged, and the forward drum clutches and steels are toast.
So, on with the rebuild.
I have been having an issue with my truck shuddering when coming OUT of overdrive. While it does exhibit the same "rumble strip" symptom others describe, I don't think that this is the traditional torque converter clutch issue that many people are experiencing. Theirs all seem to be when the torque converter is going INTO lockup, not OUT OF lockup.
This is the time to do it, though. Do you guys believe I should replace my torque converter? Or is it a needless expense?
2004 F150 screw
4WD, 4R75W trans
5.4 engine
I origionally lost overdrive, and replaced the O/D servo. O/D would not engage, and had a few broken servo springs when I dropped the valve body. These were replaced, and transfer put back together.
Afterward, trans seemed to work properly, but I underfilled it by A LOT. Like 6 quarts. It wasn't driven more than back and forth in the driveway a couple times. That was corrected and I went about my merry way.
A week later, I lost virtually all forward movement. I had to rev the engine to get drive to engage. Checked fluid, still full.
Therefore, I decided to rebuild the trans. I found the lip seal inside the forward drum damaged, and the forward drum clutches and steels are toast.
So, on with the rebuild.
I have been having an issue with my truck shuddering when coming OUT of overdrive. While it does exhibit the same "rumble strip" symptom others describe, I don't think that this is the traditional torque converter clutch issue that many people are experiencing. Theirs all seem to be when the torque converter is going INTO lockup, not OUT OF lockup.
This is the time to do it, though. Do you guys believe I should replace my torque converter? Or is it a needless expense?
#2
Failure to replace the torque converter and cooler then flush out the lines is the absolute most common cause for repeat failures. Without cutting the torque converter apart there is no way to clean it out. And it's just totally impossible to clean out a stacked plate cooler like we have on these vehicles.
That means, no matter how clean you thought you got it, when the heat and cool cycles do their thing on the junk that was trapped in the cooler or torque converter and it lets loose that stuck ball of junk that was hiding in there and it clogs up a valve or check ball, you will be removing and rebuilding again.
It's not by any stretch a waste of money. Not much could be further from the truth in this situation.
D
That means, no matter how clean you thought you got it, when the heat and cool cycles do their thing on the junk that was trapped in the cooler or torque converter and it lets loose that stuck ball of junk that was hiding in there and it clogs up a valve or check ball, you will be removing and rebuilding again.
It's not by any stretch a waste of money. Not much could be further from the truth in this situation.
D
#4
#5
Failure to replace the torque converter and cooler then flush out the lines is the absolute most common cause for repeat failures. Without cutting the torque converter apart there is no way to clean it out. And it's just totally impossible to clean out a stacked plate cooler like we have on these vehicles.
That means, no matter how clean you thought you got it, when the heat and cool cycles do their thing on the junk that was trapped in the cooler or torque converter and it lets loose that stuck ball of junk that was hiding in there and it clogs up a valve or check ball, you will be removing and rebuilding again.
It's not by any stretch a waste of money. Not much could be further from the truth in this situation.
D
That means, no matter how clean you thought you got it, when the heat and cool cycles do their thing on the junk that was trapped in the cooler or torque converter and it lets loose that stuck ball of junk that was hiding in there and it clogs up a valve or check ball, you will be removing and rebuilding again.
It's not by any stretch a waste of money. Not much could be further from the truth in this situation.
D
Reusing the old torque converter is the best way to have to rebuild the transmission a second time.
#6
I understand, thanks.
Fordparts.com lists my trans as a 4R75W, the dealer lists it as a 4R75E. Both methods were using the VIN. I'll verify the tag when I get home.
Any torque convertor you guys would recommend? My truck is 4WD, so performance isn't really a concern. Links would be welcome!
Fordparts.com lists my trans as a 4R75W, the dealer lists it as a 4R75E. Both methods were using the VIN. I'll verify the tag when I get home.
Any torque convertor you guys would recommend? My truck is 4WD, so performance isn't really a concern. Links would be welcome!
#7
regardless of what designation you use, the 4R75 is same (E or W)
I have been buying torque converters from Johnny at Torco for 10 years and NEVER had an issue. all of the torque converters, except 2 have had drain plugs installed... drain plugs are nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Torque-...AAAOSwBahU2X~T
I have been buying torque converters from Johnny at Torco for 10 years and NEVER had an issue. all of the torque converters, except 2 have had drain plugs installed... drain plugs are nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Torque-...AAAOSwBahU2X~T