Truck has 200k on it, and on its last cross country trip, the wife called me complaining about the truck "acting up". Between Gallup and Albequergue, with 600 or 700 miles to home, there wasn't much choice but to keep going, so she did...although passing wasn't an option. She made it home, and I incorrectly guessed it was the cats...nope.

I pulled the tranny pan and found this:







I'd like your opinion. Rebuild or replace? I am going to attempt this either way. Thanks!

 

That is part of the center support retaining ring. I just did one where I found that exact same thing. It didn't cause the failure though. On his the retaining ring that holds the intermediate one way clutch was also just hanging there. That was more the issue. Along with the destroyed direct clutch pack. LOL

It sure sounds like time for a rebuild. If you need anything just let me know

D

 

Thanks, Darrin! Rebuild kit and Sure Cure will be on order ASAP. Is it good practice to replace the torque converter in conjunction with the rebuild, and if so, what source do you recommend?

 

The only Sonnax part I use is their spiral lock kit for the intermediate one way clutch. Maybe their new forward drum, but I'm still playing with that to see. I am not a fan of their sure cure stuff. People use it though.

But, always replace the torque converter every time. You can't clean out any crap in it without cutting it apart.

D

 

Mobilus, do you plan on rebuilding the tranny yourself or have a shop do it? Darrin knows his stuff. I take his opinions very seriously. I've been having tranny issues myself,ands have been leaning on Darrin for words of advice. When I was buying parts for my rebuild I made a stupid mistake and had a Kevlar overdrive band installed thinking it would prolong the life of it, but was advised that was a very poor decision due to Kevlar only being used in racing applications. When you replace your TC , I would spend a few extra bucks and go with a heavy duty TC.My issue with my 4r75w is the OD going to neutral after it warms up. After replacing the VB and gaskets, the last thing to try before pulling the tranny again is replacing the OD servo. My snap rings and e clips are all still in place with no breakage, so I'm thinging I might have a small rip in the servo seal. If you plan on building it yourself, I'd like to follow along and see how hard it really is to tear into one.

 

alsatropine, I am planning on doing it myself. We bought the wife a new car, and I plan on driving the F150 to work and back, and keeping the miles down some on the F250. So, if it takes a little while, that's fine...and if I actually accomplish the feat I get another notch in the belt of life (not to mention saving a grand).

So, what brand rebuild kit should I be getting?

 

I purchased my rebuild kit from Oregon performance transmission. I think it was around 250ish if I can remember right. It includes the red clutches and Borg Warner bands. Very friendly staff and very helpful. I learned to stay away from the Kevlar bands, and that's my delima now is to pull my tranny again and replace the Kevlar band with a high carbon material. Darrin Burch here on this forum is very helpful and full of knowledge. Maybe he will stop by and give you some insight. If you are rebuilding yourself, can I ask what materials or manuals you are using? I'd like to take a peek at them as well.

 

I decided to buy the rebuild kit from OPT because they include the steels...didn't see that elsewhere. I'm picking up the two ATSG manuals as well.

I've read that it'd be a good idea to buy a heavy duty torque converter. Does that mean a three-clutch vs. a single clutch TC? Is there a preference of manufacturer?

Also, the write-up by psynosis made me want to upgrade the valve body, but is it money well spent? I mean, I never had a problem with the truck until recently, and it used to launch pretty well. Not talking racing here, just performance like one would expect from a 5.4 truck.

For instructions, I plan on using the aforementioned manuals, the YouTube videos by Hiram Gutierrez, and a long table with craft paper to lay the parts out in order of disassembly. And a camera...can't forget to take pictures of each step.

I've been an F-16 crew chief for over 30 years, so the basic ability to do the job is there. I talked with an auto mechanic the other day, one that I trust, and he said he wouldn't attempt it himself. I think there is a paradigm here that needs to be challenged. We'll see...

 

Check into Central Valve Bodies. He is one of the most reasonable around and will sell you a remanned upgraded unit for 260 shipped which includes gaskets and ready to bolt on. That's who I purchased mine from.

 

Dude, that's high in my opinion.

I know you've been on my website and have probably seen how much I sell fully modified valve body kits for. A stock reman with gaskets can be had quite a bit less even when you add in a filter. I offer a lot of stuff that isn't on my website yet. Building that site on my own is more work than I ever imagined.

But wow, selling a stock reman for more than you can buy well modified ones. I don't know how they can do it.

D

 

You are going to need some special tools to rebuild it correctly;

lip seal protectors for direct and forward clutch. http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-1600-K-AOD-AODE-4R70W-Lip-Seal-Installer-Protector-Kit-7-Piece-Kit-/271275665397?hash=item3f294a27f5&item=271275665397&vxp=mtr
piston spring compressor (I use a stand up one that mounts in a vise) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Transmission-Clutch-Drum-Spring-Compressor-Tool-T-0158-HD-Bench-Mount/190812034767?rt=nc&_soffid=5005008206&_soffType=OrderSubTotalOffer&_trksid=p5731.m3795
End play check tool - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-End-Play-Clearance-Gauge-Transmission-Tool-AOD-AOD-E-4R70W-T-1643-/190657469052?hash=item2c64121a7c&vxp=mtr
special tool to install solid direct teflon seals - http://www.ebay.com/itm/307-516-OTC-FORD-ROTUNDA-SERVICE-TOOL-TEFLON-SEAL-INSTALLER-F-150-TRANSMISSIONS-/161813727212?hash=item25acd987ec&item=161813727212&vxp=mtr
a good set of snap ring pliers

micrometer and depth gauges

seal pick

tube of assembly lube

 

I pulled the tranny out with no help in four hours, and I should have planned out the move from the jack to the workbench. It was definitely heavier than anticipated, and I should have used a hoist or a helper. So plan that out if you do this!





My dear wife gave me the jack stands for Christmas, and they really came in handy.








This much more of the center support retaining ring fell out.





That left about 5" of the center support retaining snap ring doing its job. Part on order.





OD band a little burnt, but not bad for 200K...will be replaced.





Intermediate clutch friction were pretty dark...will be replaced.





Again, expected wear on the clutch basket...to be replaced.

Everything else looked good. Suggestions and/or comments welcome.

 

Intermediate clutches are made from a high carbon material and are supposed to be black. those clutches look perfect. No need to replace the clutch basket/sunshell. its normal wear and will not effect anything.

make sure you update the OD band to the latest part. 7L3Z-7F196-A

 

Thanks, mitymerc! I appreciate the advice, and the savings!

It'll be another week before I get back in the shop to work on this, so if there's anything else that anyone has for me, please post it. This forum is awesome!

 

Ok, with me being me, I just can't not say something about that sun shell. It's just killing me.

I always replace every one that has obvious wear or allows too much clearance to the reverse drum contact points. Once they start cutting they just get worse because any extra clearance allows the contact points on the shell and reverse drum to bang against each other, often times cutting into the tangs on the reverse drum as well. Particularly on the non hardened ones.

To me, it's just not that expensive of a part if you want to get the job done right. My goal when I build one of these is to make it the last time anyone ever needs to go into it. To do that you have to replace, at the bare minimum, anything that shows wear and then any and all clutch surfaces both friction and steel. I strive to make mine better than they were when new by a good stretch.

The most important tip I can give is clean, clean, clean. Nothing is ever clean enough. I run all my tools through the parts washer when I'm done with them. Hell, I'm surprised I haven't worn the top off my bench as often as I clean it. At least 3 times during each build I spray it down with solvent, squeegee it, spray it with brake cleaner and wipe with paper towels until the paper towels stop picking up residue. Then after I clean it for the final time when I am done for the day, I spray a coat of silicone spray and wipe that around to make sure it doesn't rust. Just don't EVER try to stand on it. I can tell you that from experience. It's like trying to walk on the oiled part of a bowling lane. LOL

Clean parts, clean tools and a clean workspace are critical.

But so you know, I'm that guy who will take everything apart and check, measure then put it back together until I hit a specific numbers on each clutch and the total stack. If I don't hit those numbers within a few thousandths then I'm back in it. It's freaky how when you use the exact same high quality parts every time that you can get them to build up exactly the same every time. When I don't hit my numbers I know something is wrong and something else is getting replaced.

Yes, I'm that crazy when it comes to these. It's like a total OCD fest when I build one. This is why I have never been able to have anyone work for me to build them. Nobody will put up with me, nor I them.

But, that's just me

D