I removed the pump out from the front of my 4r70w transmission. When I reinstalled the pump and bolts, three of the bolts threaded all the way in and stripped without applying much torque. Is there any way the holes can be re-tapped without messing up the tranny case? Has anyone run into this before? Any help would be appreciated!

 

Aluminum case right? Your best bet would be helicoil

How tight do you think they were when they spun around?

 

Yes, its an aluminum case, and they weren't very tight at all when they spun (but they were tight when I removed them). Whats helicoil?

 

Thread inserts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_...nid=2528832011

 

From what it looks like, you tap the hole bigger, thread the insert in, and that's the new hole?

 

Correct

 

Yea don't require all that much torque, - 76-106 Lb/in or inch pounds. Are they 10mm ? Must be..

 

yes they are 10mm. Well dummy me also didnt clean/dry out the fluid from the bolts or the holes, so that extra lubrication probably is part of the problem...rookie mistake. If I clean all that up, and use tread locker, will I be ok if I just snug the bolts to the point right before they slip? Also, I purchased ATF silicon gasket maker to run on the edge of that round plate that those bolts go thruwhen I put it back in, is this recommended?

 

Installation

1.NOTE: Lubricate the new O-ring with Ford Super Premium SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W-30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.

2.Clean and inspect the mating surfaces replace the O-ring..
Install the oil pump and loosely install the bolts.

3.Tighten the bolts.

4. Install the three oil pump screen and cover bolts.

5. Install the timing chains. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components—Romeo Engine and Timing Drive Components—Windsor Engine in this section.

6. Install the oil pan. For additional information, refer to Oil Pan—4x4 in this section.

Yea, you need to tighten that oil pan in stages, 3 is good.

Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.

 

Yea, really no call for thread sealant, not down there or inside. I don't think it's a good idea.

When ever using sealant, don't use that colored water Permatex. You need Quickstix 248 Blue or 268 Red. Loctite. Those can be had cheap now and they are a past, sort of like a big fat tube of chap-shtick lol.

 

When torquing the pan, work from the center out, - if you didn't know already.

 

No, that won't work. You are going to destroy the transmission.

Go to any autoparts store with one of the bolts. Get enough Helicoils to fix all of the stripped holes. They are VERY easy to install and don't cost very much. Fix it right so you don't have to fix even more very soon.

 

Timing chains on a transmission?

 

I was thinking oil pump for some reason.. Yea disregard OP.

 

Is there a supposed to be a gasket around this thing? or some kind of silicone? havent pulled it all the way out yet and don't want to if i dont have to.