my 97 E4OD cooler line sprung a leak - questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-10-2013, 07:12 PM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
my 97 E4OD cooler line sprung a leak - questions

Rolled up garage door and had a few puddles of red under my F150. Removed the front skid plate and started her up. There is a pinhole leak from one of the cooler lines...one of the steel ones that goes back towards the transmission.

Can I get a new line set still for the old girl? I have the 4x4 with tow package so it has the extra cooler outside the radiator. I can't see where the lines enter the tranny because of the cat and exhaust heat shields.

To be honest the lines and fittings are so corroded I am scared to try to remove the fittings. Any advice? How is the best way to get to the fittings on the side of the tranny without dropping the tranny?

If there are any links anyone knows of with some pics and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 08-10-2013, 08:04 PM
glc's Avatar
glc
glc is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Joplin MO
Posts: 43,192
Received 757 Likes on 702 Posts
I would cut the line at the pinhole and use a length of rubber hose and some worm clamps on it.
 
  #3  
Old 08-17-2013, 09:47 AM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by glc
I would cut the line at the pinhole and use a length of rubber hose and some worm clamps on it.
Agreed, this would be easiest. But...I think I will go with some new lines. Guess I will plumb in mostly rubber trans lines to replace the steel ones. I would like to get adapters for the tranny and cooler ports that have the flares and the bumps already in place for the clamps. Having hard time finding info and where to get these things.
 
  #4  
Old 08-17-2013, 01:22 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MI
Posts: 25,637
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Just bend up some new lines, then flare. I like using the Ridgid benders, but you can get special purpose kit. Rubber won't last by itself. There's eaiest to do is replace the entire line. Dorman sells the entire line for 25-30 bucks.

You can also incorporate a filter kit with the repair. Heres the Ford kit, -



Juts don't use fuel line lol.
 
  #5  
Old 08-17-2013, 03:54 PM
glc's Avatar
glc
glc is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Joplin MO
Posts: 43,192
Received 757 Likes on 702 Posts
If you only cut about an inch out of the steel line, then slide a 6 inch length of hose over it and center the void space, you won't need flares - just some good worm clamps.

This is a easy low buck repair - obviously replacing the steel lines is more permanent but more expensive and more difficult.
 
  #6  
Old 08-17-2013, 04:41 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MI
Posts: 25,637
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally Posted by glc
If you only cut about an inch out of the steel line, then slide a 6 inch length of hose over it and center the void space, you won't need flares - just some good worm clamps.

This is a easy low buck repair - obviously replacing the steel lines is more permanent but more expensive and more difficult.
It does require a flexible tube section for stress relief, but personally I'd have to do more than just slide it over and clamp it. If you have a Milton 1626 set up or a Oetiker Ear Clamp kit, Id clamp it that way. Regardless, for a trans line, I'd like to see a barbed fitting for that type of repair, personally...
 
  #7  
Old 09-17-2013, 11:46 AM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well my truck hasn't moved since I posted this. I had pneumonia, finally gone. Now, I got down there an took a picture of the pinhole.

Name:  IMG_7515_zpsc5820fd8.jpg
Views: 3992
Size:  93.3 KB

I need to replace these lines. I am currently trying to get the heat shield for the cats off so I can access the fittings on the passenger side of the trans. I guess I will have to cut the bracket since I see no way of getting the last heat shield bolt out of the bracket as it is right on top of the exhaust and even a swivel socket won't fit up there. Can someone point out a place for the dorman replacement lines? I tried rock auto but they don't have them.

I'm very worried about getting the flare nuts off the tranny. Any advice would be appreciated.

Winter is coming and I need my truck.
 
  #8  
Old 09-17-2013, 12:08 PM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well I went on Dorman website. I really am confused. I need at a minimum the 2 lines that go from the transmission to the radiator. I have the aux cooler so I'm not sure what lines to get. 97 4x4 E4OD with aux trans cooler 5.4 L engine extended cab.

From looking down there there looks to be 3 tubes but I'm not completely sure.

1) the tube from the trans to the radiator
2) a tube from the radiator to the aux cooler
3) a tube from the aux cooler back to the trans

I guess I would just get all 3 and be done with it if I knew what parts I needed exactly.

Greatly appreciate any trans guys that could help identify which dorman OE replacements to just replace all the rotted out stuff.

And to further aggravate me, I just noticed the transmission filler tube is also rotted out and I don't know where to get that either.
 
  #9  
Old 09-17-2013, 05:39 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MI
Posts: 25,637
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally Posted by boomer9999
Well I went on Dorman website. I really am confused. I need at a minimum the 2 lines that go from the transmission to the radiator. I have the aux cooler so I'm not sure what lines to get. 97 4x4 E4OD with aux trans cooler 5.4 L engine extended cab.

From looking down there there looks to be 3 tubes but I'm not completely sure.

1) the tube from the trans to the radiator
2) a tube from the radiator to the aux cooler
3) a tube from the aux cooler back to the trans

I guess I would just get all 3 and be done with it if I knew what parts I needed exactly.

Greatly appreciate any trans guys that could help identify which dorman OE replacements to just replace all the rotted out stuff.

And to further aggravate me, I just noticed the transmission filler tube is also rotted out and I don't know where to get that either.
I'm not really a trans guy , but I have torn down the E40D/4R100's in the past and successfully fixed them.

Well, keep in mind the 98's w/E40D's are the same set up. Some of the late 98's even had 4R100 Inked on the internals. Anyway, the best advice I can give about your problem is to try TASCA and/or Rock Auto for the parts. Tasca would be choice to get a look at the right stuff.

BTW-
I'm surprised your Trans filler tube is rusted, I've never seen that yet lol. I've seen plenty of rotten oil filler tubes. Make sure your wheel well skirts are still there(they just fall off after awhile lol), same w/engine guards under the front end.

These transmissions can leak right at the filler tube; where they plug into the trans, from just sitting for long periods at one time. If you don't drive them often. Not just Fords either, they all can and will after just sitting long periods of time. I believe that's from the torque converter draining down.

So make sure it's truly rotted, in order to not waste time and $$ replacing it, if it doesn't need to be. Replace the o-rings instead, if yours has those(should). It might help.
 
  #10  
Old 01-04-2014, 09:53 AM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Update...

Well I found the replacement lines on Rock Auto. Ordered the Dorman replacements. Dorman 624202 lower rad inlet and Dorman 624226 upper rad inlet.

The rear line was damaged while being packed for shipping, one of the bends was kinked. So Rock Auto sent a replacement. The 624202 went in without a problem. However the 624226 won't go into the trans. At the trans end there is a sharp 90 degree bend in the last few inches. I need a straight up to fit into the E4OD. So I ordered a Edelmann B61194 from Rock Auto. It also has that right angle bend on the transmission end which the picture on the web page does not have.

I assume that there must have been some mid-year change or something for the front trans line fitting.

I guess my only options are to lop off the right angle bend and form a new inverted flare. I have never done flares before so I am a bit intimidated. There appears to be enough length to do this on the Edelmann part, but of course it is routed in the truck already and was a real pain getting it in there.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

So just to let everyone know, the parts mentioned may or may not fit your truck for your upper rad to front transmission fitting. Saga continues.
 
  #11  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:00 AM
boomer9999's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jbrew
I'm not really a trans guy , but I have torn down the E40D/4R100's in the past and successfully fixed them.

Well, keep in mind the 98's w/E40D's are the same set up. Some of the late 98's even had 4R100 Inked on the internals. Anyway, the best advice I can give about your problem is to try TASCA and/or Rock Auto for the parts. Tasca would be choice to get a look at the right stuff.

BTW-
I'm surprised your Trans filler tube is rusted, I've never seen that yet lol. I've seen plenty of rotten oil filler tubes. Make sure your wheel well skirts are still there(they just fall off after awhile lol), same w/engine guards under the front end.

These transmissions can leak right at the filler tube; where they plug into the trans, from just sitting for long periods at one time. If you don't drive them often. Not just Fords either, they all can and will after just sitting long periods of time. I believe that's from the torque converter draining down.

So make sure it's truly rotted, in order to not waste time and $$ replacing it, if it doesn't need to be. Replace the o-rings instead, if yours has those(should). It might help.
Absolutely the filler tube is rusted through, no leaks at the o-ring on the trans. I'm thinking the best solution is some of that fiberglass matt stuff and just wrap the damaged section. There is no pressure in that tube and it looks like a nightmare to get it out, and I can't find a source for a new tube. I will try to get a pic.
 
  #12  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:46 PM
shopteach's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Unless the filler tube is a one year only special deal I would think it should still be available from Ford.
 



Quick Reply: my 97 E4OD cooler line sprung a leak - questions



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:08 PM.