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  #1  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:32 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Vehicle: 1994 Ford F150
Posts: 6
4R70W Removal/Installation - Advice/Tips/Tricks?

Hi all, I'd like to start fixing up my old F150, hoping I could get some advice. I have a 94 with the 5.0/4R70W 2WD, ~108,000 miles. The transmission is starting to slip bad on the interstate and even around town some, seems to occur more on longer drives (when it warms up?).

So, I've decided to replace it with one from a junkyard with a 90 day warranty. I picked up a 4R70W out of a 95 F150 with the exact same setup, and am hoping to swap it out this weekend. The junkyard said the transmission was inspected by AAMCO, so I'm hoping all is well.

My questions is, would you have any advice, tips or tricks for the install?

I also need to replace the engine rear main seal, it seems to be leaking just a bit. I'm open to replacing anything else that is recommended, maybe the transmission seals or u-joints?

I've done a bunch of searching on this site and noted the following instructions for yanking it out:
1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove Transmission Dipstick
3. Remove Inspection Plate, 2 Rubber Plugs (Bellhousing & opposite side of starter)
4. Remove Torque Converter bolts (4) w/18mm socket (turning clockwise)
5. Remove Starter
6. Drain Fluid from Pan
7. Drop any necessary exhaust (first unplug o2 sensors)
8. Remove Driveshaft
9. Support Transmission, Remove Crossmember
10. Disconnect all Electricals and Shift Linkage
11. Lower Tail End of Transmission – Remove 7 13mm head bolts
12. Remove Transmission


For these instructions, I wasn't 100% sure if it was for the 4R70W.

I've also read how to check the torque converter with a straight-edge, it seems this was already installed but good to check.

To note, I'm going to have a friend helping and have a motorcycle jack to hopefully support the transmission.

Lastly, I found what seemed to be good instructions for filling it back up:
There is no need to fill the converter. The pump will do that as soon as the engine starts to turn.

After installing the trans pour 6 quarts down the dipstick tube. Start the engine and run for 1 minute. Shut it down and add 3 more quarts. Restart it, and move the shifter to each position (PRND21) for 5 seconds each. With the shifter back in park let it warm up for about 5-10 minutes. This will also allow fluid to drain out of the dipstick tube so that you have a chance of getting a good reading. Check the level with the trans warmed up and the engine idling in park. Depending on how much was in the trans it will take 1 to 30 more quarts of fluid to top it off. DO NOT OVERFILL!


Sorry for such a long post .

Any other advice would be extremely appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 09-28-2010, 11:08 PM
Senior Member
2009 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Canton, Georgia
Vehicle: 2009 Ford F150
Posts: 214
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94inREHAB View Post
Hi all, I'd like to start fixing up my old F150, hoping I could get some advice. I have a 94 with the 5.0/4R70W 2WD, ~108,000 miles. The transmission is starting to slip bad on the interstate and even around town some, seems to occur more on longer drives (when it warms up?).

So, I've decided to replace it with one from a junkyard with a 90 day warranty. I picked up a 4R70W out of a 95 F150 with the exact same setup, and am hoping to swap it out this weekend. The junkyard said the transmission was inspected by AAMCO, so I'm hoping all is well.

My questions is, would you have any advice, tips or tricks for the install?

I also need to replace the engine rear main seal, it seems to be leaking just a bit. I'm open to replacing anything else that is recommended, maybe the transmission seals or u-joints?

I've done a bunch of searching on this site and noted the following instructions for yanking it out:
1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove Transmission Dipstick
3. Remove Inspection Plate, 2 Rubber Plugs (Bellhousing & opposite side of starter)
4. Remove Torque Converter bolts (4) w/18mm socket (turning clockwise)should be 15 mm not 18 mm
5. Remove Starter
6. Drain Fluid from Pan
7. Drop any necessary exhaust (first unplug o2 sensors)
8. Remove Driveshaft
9. Support Transmission, Remove Crossmember
10. Disconnect all Electricals and Shift Linkage
11. Lower Tail End of Transmission – Remove 7 13mm head bolts
12. Remove Transmission


For these instructions, I wasn't 100% sure if it was for the 4R70W.

I've also read how to check the torque converter with a straight-edge, it seems this was already installed but good to check.

To note, I'm going to have a friend helping and have a motorcycle jack to hopefully support the transmission.

Lastly, I found what seemed to be good instructions for filling it back up:
There is no need to fill the converter. The pump will do that as soon as the engine starts to turn.

After installing the trans pour 6 quarts down the dipstick tube. Start the engine and run for 1 minute. Shut it down and add 3 more quarts. Restart it, and move the shifter to each position (PRND21) for 5 seconds each. With the shifter back in park let it warm up for about 5-10 minutes. This will also allow fluid to drain out of the dipstick tube so that you have a chance of getting a good reading. Check the level with the trans warmed up and the engine idling in park. Depending on how much was in the trans it will take 1 to 30 more quarts of fluid to top it off. DO NOT OVERFILL!


Sorry for such a long post .

Any other advice would be extremely appreciated. Thanks in advance.
t/c nuts are either 15 or 14 from the factory (they use both different years/models) and also for refill you can just add 6 quarts, and then start the truck then let it run add 3 more then check the fluid level. depending on what kind of driving you do you may want to overfil 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. (only if you idle in park alot) it will create splash lube on a bearing that tends to fail when trucks idle in park alot... Before anyone starts bashing never overfill, this is a field fix for a trans problem... and several tranny guys at the dealership have used this technique...
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  #3  
Old 09-29-2010, 10:05 AM
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Location: Iowa
Vehicle: 1994 Ford F150
Posts: 6
Thanks for that note on the T/C nuts.

I guess the other thing I was considering were the torque specs for the T/C or Bellhousing bolts, anybody have those offhand?
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  #4  
Old 09-29-2010, 11:35 AM
Member
1997 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94inREHAB View Post
Thanks for that note on the T/C nuts.

I guess the other thing I was considering were the torque specs for the T/C or Bellhousing bolts, anybody have those offhand?
I just bought a haynes manual today, trans leaking, and it says for the 4r70w trans, the torque:

torque converter nuts: 22-30 ftlbs
trans to engine: 30-40 ftlbs
trans range sensor retain screws: 62-89 inlbs

The manual is for 97-2003, but same tranny.
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  #5  
Old 09-29-2010, 05:27 PM
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Thanks Noggin, that's great to know.

Anybody else recommend anything else to replace while I have the tranny out?
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  #6  
Old 10-01-2010, 05:54 PM
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I'm putting a 4r in my 94 right now too. My engine oil pan was gettin rusty so i replaced it while the trans was out. If you pull the flex plate and drop the oil pump into the pan you can do this without pulling the engine. It's a pain, but i didn't want to disconnect my a/c that still works. Make sure you get the one piece pan gasket.
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2010, 02:44 PM
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Location: Clinton Twp. MI
Vehicle: 2001 SuperCrew
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if you already have the trans out, replace the rear main seal on the engine..
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2010, 03:07 PM
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Alright, thanks for all the advice guys, I will be starting the removal in t-minus 30 minutes .

I'll keep ya posted how it goes.
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2010, 07:42 AM
Member
1997 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 21
Update on my experience.

My trans was leaking from the front. So I wanted to replace the pump seal.

Took the tranny out, not too horrible. Replaced the front and rear seals. Took me 5 trips to a few different auto stores to get the correct seal.

Put everything back together, had a helluva time with the bracket connecting the exhaust and tranny, above the cross-member. Finally used some pipe-clamps and magic cuss-words to get it right.

Got fluid back in, started up and warmed it up, checked fluid level. Took it drive around the block a few times, shifts fine, no slips.

Got back home and it's STILL leaking.

So any ideas on what could be still wrong?

My guess is that the internal bushing/bearing at the input is warn causing the seal not to seal correctly.
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:04 PM
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Where's it leaking from? Front, rear?
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  #11  
Old 10-05-2010, 04:40 PM
Member
1997 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by illness95 View Post
Where's it leaking from? Front, rear?
Leaking from the front.

Trying to decide what to do.
Got a couple quotes yesterday:
$1200 - 1400 complete rebuild
$800-900 just to repair the pump

The more I think about it, junkyard might be the way to go. I know I can take it out and put it in, already done it once.

Suggestions?
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2010, 10:34 AM
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Vehicle: 1994 Ford F150
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If you feel comfortable with putting it in yourself, I'd say take a chance with a junkyard. I just got mine for $400 + tax with a 90 day warranty from a junkyard. They also had it inspected by AAMCO, but I don't know much of what they did.

Quick update on my 94', I was not able to remove the transmisison last weekend as hoped. I thought I did enough research, but apparently this isn't a job to do in your driveway with the truck on jackstands.

I drained the fluid, pulled the driveshaft, pulled the inspection plate cover for the T/C bolts - but couldn't get them out. I'm fairly certain the exhaust needs to be dropped for these bolts and also for the coolant lines, but I definitely could be wrong. Anywho, I decided it was a little much for my abilities so I dropped off the truck/parts to a tranny shop yesterday. Supposed to be wrapped up by end of week, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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  #13  
Old 10-06-2010, 12:51 PM
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Send a message via AIM to ssj4shane
i pulled my trany 3 times in the grass lol....
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:51 PM


 
 
 
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