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  #16  
Old 07-24-2009, 10:03 AM
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you have to take off the 2 stiffiner plates then there is only one other bolt holding on the seperator plate.



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  #17  
Old 07-24-2009, 10:08 AM
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I was a little nervous about tearing this thing apart. I don't have a clue what I'm doing really.

The directions don't have any pics really just instructions. So when they tell me to take out the main control body, stiffener plates, etc., I didn't have a clue what they were talking about. So I'm winging it here.

One thing that surprises me is that I can't find a difference between the stock plate and the Factory Tech plate! All the holes line up, they all seem to be the same size etc.

This is as far as I got last night. I needed a Brillo pad to scuff off the small amounts of rust that is on the Factory tech plate before I install it.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2009, 10:45 AM
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It looks like you are on the right path. Be careful not to bang the valve body around too much. If I remember correctly there are a couple of check balls underneath the plate. The little black screen goes between the valve body and the trans. You will need some trans gel or some vasoline to hold it up there until you get the valve body back on. There is a hole that is shaped just like the filter. If you can't figure it out I have instructions at home that show where it goes. The spring and cap are from your 2-3 accumulator. It is the front of the trans on passenger side, a big round hole with a groove around the bottom that the cap tabs sit in to hold it up. You will have to bend those tabs out a little to hold it back in place with the spring in it. The plunger is up inside if you want to replace them with the ones from the kit. I didn't as my truck was an 03 with low miles. The cone points down. The white plastic plunger with the o-ring you can chuck away it is just a plug from the assembly line for the dipstip tube that gets shoved into the trans at assembly. It means that no one has had the trans pan off before.

Last edited by grizzstang; 07-24-2009 at 01:35 PM.
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:33 PM
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looks FUN, i especially like the pic of all the trans fluid on the floor and the kitty litter on it, very funny stuff,and i'm thinking i might have somebody do it for me, i'd rather pay somebody $50-100 than deal with a pain in the azz.

p.s. are you going with the stock accumulator springs or the "firm" ones from the kit, let me know what you think either way. thanks

Last edited by JimmysotherFORD; 07-24-2009 at 12:37 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:37 PM
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Yea just when you think it has all dripped out more falls out.
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  #21  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:47 PM
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efuehrin, good work so far just take your time and get 'er back together correctly
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  #22  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:52 PM
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I have a friend that's a mechanic at the Ford Dealership here in Concordia.

I think I'll get with him and look at some drawings before I reasemble it. Or at least have him come over.

I"m still having a hard time deciding on how to set up the springs. I don't want to do this twice if I don't have too.
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  #23  
Old 07-25-2009, 12:08 PM
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I'd leave the springs in the stock positions, when I do this to teh expy I'm gonna leave 'em in teh stock places for a bit family friendlier shifting @ WOT
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2009, 12:24 PM
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i'm with you on that, and use the edge or gryphon(when its upgraded) to fine tune the firmness.
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  #25  
Old 07-25-2009, 06:13 PM
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well, I went with Dirtydogs recommendation of "install the brown spring into the upper 1-2 accumulator and remove the spring from the 2-3 accumulator then install it into the lower of the 1-2 accumulator. "

It seems kinda wierd to me to leave only the smaller spring in the lower 1-2. How does it say centered? Or does it even matter?

I took pics but won't get them posted for a while maybe monday.

Anyway I have all the new springs in and the plate on I guess I just need to figure out where that little filter goes then I can button er back up.
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Thanks for the SIG krusedisc!

Last edited by efuehrin; 07-27-2009 at 03:05 AM.
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  #26  
Old 07-26-2009, 08:37 PM
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The spring doesn't make much difference that it is a little smaller, as long as it can't go sidweays. The little filter you are talking about I assume is almost square but trapazoid shaped on one side. It goes up in the case near the front in a hole the exact same shape. You'll need some transgel(vaseline works also) to make it stay in place while you put the valvebody up.
Alan
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  #27  
Old 07-27-2009, 10:48 AM
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Well I almost have this project completed. I didn't have hardly any time to work on it this weekend.

For the 2-3 accumulator I didn't put in any spring.


This is the stock setup for the 1-2 accumulator.


And this is with the Factory Tech spring in the upper and the old 2-3 spring in the lower.

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  #28  
Old 07-27-2009, 10:49 AM
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I used a bottle jack to help me get out the 1-2 accumulator.


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  #29  
Old 07-27-2009, 10:51 AM
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It was still a pain in the butt though. I'd buy a good set of snap ring pliers. I've got a cheapo set from the bargin bin.

I did find where the little filter goes. I now I pretty much just need to get it back together.

I'm not in a huge hurry cause my rearend cover is off also. I had a leak and now I'm waiting on my Mag-hytec cover to come in that I ordered last week.
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03 Screw, 4x4, 5.4, 6+3 Lift, Xcal3, 38x15.50x20 Toyo's, 20x9.5 Procomp 7005's, Yukon 4:88's, Super 44's Dual, OBX headers, 3" AF1, magnaflow cats, Firestone Air Helper Springs, Kenne Bell 2.2 S/C'er waiting in garage to be installed, official #2 Patman Grill
<Click Here For Photo Galleries>

Thanks for the SIG krusedisc!
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2009, 09:58 AM
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Finally got the shift kit done.

Here's where the little filter goes. I used some vasoline and it worked great to hold it in place.



Valve body back in place.
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03 Screw, 4x4, 5.4, 6+3 Lift, Xcal3, 38x15.50x20 Toyo's, 20x9.5 Procomp 7005's, Yukon 4:88's, Super 44's Dual, OBX headers, 3" AF1, magnaflow cats, Firestone Air Helper Springs, Kenne Bell 2.2 S/C'er waiting in garage to be installed, official #2 Patman Grill
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Thanks for the SIG krusedisc!
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