i have a 2001 f150 4.2 it has a 150000 miles on it my clutch slave cylinder is going for the second time my question is ive done a few repairs myself and was wondering if i could tackle this on my own or is it better to leave it to the pros?
The hardest part is going to be getting the tranny out and back in - this is not an easy job if all you have is a driveway and jack stands. The guy that did my clutch (using a lift) told me the trans has to be turned 90 degrees to clear some stuff getting it out and back in.
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2003 F150XL 4.2 short cab/bed 4x2 5 speed manual 3.55 LS
When I had mine done, the bill was $1250. This included a full Brute Power clutch kit (pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing/slave cylinder), a master cylinder, resurface the flywheel, a fresh load of ATF in the tranny (had to be drained to avoid spillage whehile the tranny was being removed) and all labor at $80/hr. Remanufactured OEM parts would have been about $200 less.
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2003 F150XL 4.2 short cab/bed 4x2 5 speed manual 3.55 LS
If you have no money you would be surprized how much you could do on your own
I've been "playing" with my 1982 4x4 for a while: pulled the tranny and the transfer case in my garage on jack stands, by myself. Damn it's heavy, and awkward to boot.
Next, last Sunday I layed in the dirt and dropped yet another tranny and T-case out of a donor bronco, again all alone Worst part was after it was all out and laying next to the bronco, there was no one to help me load it up in my trunk (trucks broke, right?) so I got mad and grabbed the whole shebang and somehow managed to get it in the trunk. Couldn't get it out by myself but I sure as heck managed to throw it in by myself.
Just picked up the clutch pilot alignment tool (ie. butt plug) so sometime soon I'll throw it all back together and have a working truck again.
Remember, there's no such thing as a "$500" truck.
If it's the newer version of an M5R2, you can easily handle it yourself. They're super light. I've install and pulle mine a couple of times without even using a jack. There is just no weight to them. Now if you're were talking about a ZF, I would'nt suggest and twirling under the truck without a few helpers and a lift.
It's allot easier it you get one of those transmission cradles for a floor jack. Its really a bugger if you got a 4x4, transfer case makes it awkward. Try to get a couple guys with muscles. I did it by myself..
And plan on unexpected parts replacement while your at it. Pulled the bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch and found the flywheel had a groove in it. So now I have to get the flywheel turned, good thing is I have a local hookup so it's going to be free, just have to drop it off and will have it back the end of the week. So now that the flywheel is off, it's gonna get a rear main seal (4.9 inline six) and pilot bearing replaced.
I swear if anything else goes out after I get it back on the road I don't know what I'll do, lol.
And plan on unexpected parts replacement while your at it. Pulled the bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch and found the flywheel had a groove in it. So now I have to get the flywheel turned, good thing is I have a local hookup so it's going to be free, just have to drop it off and will have it back the end of the week. So now that the flywheel is off, it's gonna get a rear main seal (4.9 inline six) and pilot bearing replaced.
I swear if anything else goes out after I get it back on the road I don't know what I'll do, lol.
If the groove in the flywheel is deep enough make sure that you use shims behind the flywheel to take up the space that grinding took off the wheel.
JMC
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Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD 5speed w/Modified Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, Troyer E-fans, Procharger @12psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
FLYWHEEL MACHINING
Flywheel resurfacing is critical to clutch performance and longevity. It is extremely important to restore
the proper step dimension where applicable. Dimensions for maintaining the proper step can be found in
the ARI Clutch catalog, Alldata or Mitchell on Demand. There is no specification for maximum
machining of a flywheel. However, the amount of material a flywheel is machined can vary anywhere
from .005 to .050 of an inch, depending upon its condition. Removing too much material from the
flywheel can cause release problems. The clutch set up geometry is changed as the overall thickness of a
flywheel is reduced; in fact, the clutch assembly is moved further away from the release bearing.
Flywheel shims are often available to solve this problem. ARI does NOT recommend this procedure.
Shimming will not allow the starter drive to engage the ring gear properly. Use of flywheel shims could
encourage installation of a flywheel that is too thin and flywheel balance could be compromised. Lack
of structural integrity may cause a "thin" flywheel to explode.
ARI recommends using one of their Quality Remanufactured Flywheels with each clutch installation.
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Worst part was after it was all out and laying next to the bronco, there was no one to help me load it up in my trunk (trucks broke, right?) so I got mad and grabbed the whole shebang and somehow managed to get it in the trunk. Couldn't get it out by myself but I sure as heck managed to throw it in by myself.
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