when it is cold, idling, in park, it reads at the top of the 'hot' level. When it's hot, it's over the top of the plastic...

 

I wouldn't worry too much about that just yet. It isn't what's causing your issue.

On the new TPS, did you check the installed voltage on it? With the key on the voltage should be right around .98v plus or minus just a couple of hundredths of a volt. If that is off then you will have these problems with shifting as well.

Darrin

 

No, I didn't check the voltage. I'll check that tonight though. .98v at idle and 5v at WOT correct?

I had the transmission fluid flushed/replaced today, and had the pcm reset. I'll be able to test it out this afternoon to see if that helped any, but I'm doubtful.

Hopefully I get this figured out today, as I'm headed out on a 8 hour trip this weekend.

 

I found this thread...

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache...lnk&cd=1&gl=us

It talks about the 'torque converter clutch', and if it disengages unexpectedly, it will feel like it downshifted, but it did'nt.

And at low speed, the TCC isn't supposed to lock, which is what mine is doing as low as 37mph give or take.

Just adding to the puzzle.

 

Another thing I'll mention, after I've let off the gas, and it cycles through the problem (either tcc disengages/re-engages, or goes 4-3-4), if I hit the brakes above 40-45mph, the transmission will again do that cycle. So whatever the problem is, it's related to both letting off of the gas AND braking. Does maybe a solenoid/clutch activate or deactivate during each of those situations?

 

Drove the truck for about 120 since the trans flush. It still had problems for about 15 miles initially after the flush, but it's been nice and smooth since. It may be unrelated to the flush, but it seems to be working now. The guy gave me a sample of the old stuff, it looked dark red / cloudy grey, and smelled very different than the new oil.

 

If your fluid was that nasty, keep a close eye on it, something is possibly coming apart and some damage has been done.

 

First off, after the transmission flush, my truck has had zero issues with the shifting... until now.

My wife took my truck to work today, and on the way home (stop n go traffic, and she has a heavy foot), the transmission started acting a little funny, and the o/d light started flashing. I immediately got in the truck when she got home and drove it for about 10 minutes with the light flashing (and running pretty poorly), then it went away never to come back.

I was reading that was caused from a transmission temp overheat issue. Is that right?

Also, since I had my transmission fluid flushed/replaced at a Mobil 1, do you think they could've put non-mercon v rated fluid in there, and would that have caused this issue?

I'm going to go get the SES code read tomorrow morning, just fyi.

Thanks again...

 

Yeah, get that code read. A lot of places might not be able to read it since it won't show up on a cheapie scanner.

Darrin

 

Yes, the light can flash from a trans overheat or about 50 other things. The only way to know is to get the code read. The code will stay in the computer's memory for about a month after the last time the light flashed.

 

I think it grenaded. My truck started stalling as I was going to lunch, so I limped it into Autozone to get it scanned. I got a 0743 code, which means something about a tcc error. I hopped back in, started it up, and proceeded to reverse out of my spot, only to be met with a lot of crunching sounds from the tranny and bucking of the engine. I put it in drive and the transmission made some loud snapping/crunching sounds as it eased back into the parking spot, stalling if I didn't hold the gas pedal down.

I checked the transmission fluid... burnt and dirty after only several hundred miles.

From what I gather, my transmission is lashing out from it's previous abuse by taking a crap on it's current owner, me.

Any suggestions on transmissions, other than the Level10?

 

Level 10 is first class, but expect to pay for the quality.
They can do it to any level you decide on.
Been there already.

 

It's in route to a transmission shop. They're going to see if it's just the solenoids and/or torque convertor, hopefully save a little cash. If not, I'll be going with a built unit and upgrading my trans cooler. Might as well spend the extra right now and not have to worry about it in the future.

 

Turns out, the torque converter was the issue the whole time. In the end, it finally just let go sending metal shards all through the transmission, causing some pretty catastrophic failure.

 

Between the converter and the pump is a Torrington bearing assembly.
If these break up, the parts will go all thru the trans.
They have to completly disassemble and clean everything and should replace the cooler, flush the lines etc so none is left to start it all over again.
Ususally when the converter 'ballons' this happens.
Ford has lowered the parts quality in this area. For normal light loading the trans would last but anyone who uses the truck under high loading conditions may have the same pleasure you and I have had.
Balloning is from too high a load from towing or winding the motor to high in rpm.
If you use the truck in either of these ways, it pays to get a better convertor or the same thing might happen again.
I have had my trans custom rebuilt to take this high loading condition with diesel convertor, hi volume pump, other special parts, reprogrammed valve body, hi flow pressure control valve, Raybesto plates and band etc.
Mine happened behind a 4.6L stock motor, no tuner, no anything. It makes enough torque to do this pulling 12,000 lb. gross weights.
The steep hill I pull in 1st gear to get to my home is the worst part of any trip.
Been there.