Location: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 891
Question from a guy who knows nothing about tranny's
Before anyone jumps me I did a search and couldnt find anything so I'm going to ask.
I was going to take my tranny up and have it supped up a bit, but last night I was talking to the automechanics teacher from the local Votech school. He said that I can make an adjustment and achieve my desired performance demands.
The problem:
When towing a trailer I have slight slipage at low speed, and sever slippage in reverse especially while backing a trailer up hill. Shift from 1st to second is always soft at all times whether towing or empty, probably do to some slippage then too. I would definatly like to see all shifts a lot firmer.
The Auto mechanics teacher told me there was a band adjustment on the side of the tranny in the modulator valve? As they get wore they need to be adjusted to tighten the band back up.
Now I know nothing about trannys and even less about Fords. So is this true or is this Chevy guy playing a joke on a former Chevy guy "me". If this is true and I can make it perform some better with out pulling it out and taking it to the shop. Then it would be much appreciated and yet another reason to like my new truck more.
Ohh BTW it's a 2000, F150, 5.4L, Scab, 2 wd. I have no idea what tranny is in it.... yet! I'm guessing a C4 or C6 but I dont know.
If I can do this then anybody with pics or a how to adjust tutorial with out over tightening "if that's possiable" would be much appreciated.
Noooooo C6, your about two generations behind there buddy. You either have the 4R70w, or the 4R100. The 4R70w is the light duty tranny and has a door code sticker of U. Otherwise you have the heavy duty tranny 4R100 with a code of E.
Location: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 891
There is my problem then.. It's "U"nder developed.
Is there anything I can do for it to get it by until I can get my F250 or F350?
I do filter change every 30K miles, I may kick that up to every other oil change now because of the heat and the load of the boat I make it pull just about every weekend now.
Guess I'll wait until after I get the 250 or 350 before I buy a 7K lb +, 5th wheel camper then.
Now I'm depressed!
Why even offer a light duty in a truck? They should all be built bullet proof!
Edited to add:
The 150 is not leaving "or was not it may now", my wife is taking it when I get my new one. If so then I HAVE to try to make this light duty trans last. I dont want ot burn it up trying to pull a 3500-4000 lb boat! But a truck should beable to do that load with out a problem. Or I would think so anyway! Now I'm pissed! I hadn't regreted the truck until now.
This is just for discussion but why condem the truck equippage and the wear the trans has with it being a 2000?
I have the 4.6/ 4r70w and pull a lot more weight than your 3500 lb boat.
My Screw weighs in at 5400 without any passengers in, to boot.
I expect to have to repair something sometime due to the use the truck gets.
Now has 52,000 miles.
Certinaly I could use a PSD in all reality but will not complain about what I already have because it's my fault I don't have a bigger truck.
Cool your jets, man "Light Duty" is a relative term. I routinely tow my 6500# travel trailer with my 5.4 / 4R70W combo. -- No Worries.
The 4R70W does just what it was designed to do. In stock form, it shifts really smooth. To us TRUCK guys, this is very annoying at times, but let's face it. Ford trucks have been the best selling vehicle on the market for what 26, 27 years now? Ford has done this by taking market share from CARS. Therefore "Car-Buyers" have to be passified. They want car-like ride and car-like shifting---So that's what Ford gives them.
HOWEVER, there is a cure. Give our friend Mike Troyer a call. Troyer Performance is one of the supporting vendors of this site. I have personally spoken with him on the phone to do some troubleshooting and he is a "stand-up" guy. He will tell you that your "lazy shifts" are common-place and that there are several (not so expensive) ways to address them. From computer chip install / reprogramming to Factory Tech Valve body assemblies....He sells them. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can "fix" your tranny issues for under $300.
Location: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 891
Thanks guys... I'm better now... I am more aggreavated at myself, the truck was just the focus.
The fluid dosent look or smell like it's ever been burnt so I'll continue using it. I know it's slipped majorly atleast twice for extended periods since the last fluid and filter change. So it might be a torque converter issue rather than the actual trans slipping. I have some family things going on this weekend so maybe the next weekend I'll stay off the lake and put in a new converter "maybe" LOL.
How hard is it to put in those valve bodies?
I'm telling you I know nothing about auto trans. I rebuilt an older one years ago and it took me 3 times before it would work right. (Thats pulling it out instaling the rebuild kit, putting it back in, pulling it out again tear it apart check to see what might be wrong, putting it back together, puting it back in, then repeat again.) LOL
I vowed to never open up another one again. I do my own filter and fluid change but that is as far as I've went since then.
But if it's only drop the pan remove filter, unbolt valve body, unplug valve body, then reverse with the vakve bidy with bigger valves. Then I might would try something like that.
I'm probably not that lucky though, am I?
If you want more pulling power, just change your rear end ratio, it will
only cost you gas mileage.
Rear Ends is what makes trucks pull, not the engine or tranny's.
If that is true, put in a friggin honda four cylinder subford...
Matt, I wouldn't worry too much with that light of a load. Sorry I can't help you with beefin up the 4R70w as I don't have one. I do however have its non computerized daddy the AOD in my 88 bronco. I don't tow with it so I'm not worried. I have the diesel for that. LOL.
Location: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 891
It's not a power issue, it a slipping issue.
3K RPM to get the wheels to start moving wit hteh boat on.
Granted this is my first Auto in 12 years but I dont think that is normal. LOL
Location: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 891
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrianspeeder
...snip...
I don't tow with it so I'm not worried. I have the diesel for that. LOL.
Adrianspeeder
Rub it in!
I'm really thinking 1 ton dually 4x4 diesel for my next one.
I thought this truck would work hard enough to do everything I needed for a while. BUT I did not have any plans to buy the boat when I bought the truck last summer. I figured it would be another 3-5 years before I got one. I really hadn't planned on a camper! Before that it was mainly the flat bed with a car or truck on them occasionally. 5 maybe 6 times a year max and no further than 6 hour drives with them on!
If you do not think the rear end does the pulling you have not been around many Big Rigs adrianspeeder.
I certainly know it is a part, along with the engine and tranny. When I was buyin my tow rig, I was worried about having a 3.73 instead of the 4.10, but the powerstroke has enough grunt to not give me a problem.
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"Light Duty" is a relative term. I routinely tow my 6500# travel trailer with my 5.4 / 4R70W combo. -- No Worries.
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