Drilling Converter Drain Plug

swetich · #1 05-24-2005, 03:10 PM

I have a 2003 F150 (4X4 - 5.7L) that is due for a transmission oil and filter change (40K) but in reading the posts on this site it looks like most likely it does not have a converter drain plug. Does anyone have detailed instuctions on how to drill and tap for a plug ?? Do I have to be carefull how deep I drill ?? Size and thread of plug ?? Tap ?? How do I know exactly where to drill ?? Can I do it with just removing the inpection plug or is there more involved like removing the inpection cover?? If I add the plug will it unbalance the converter ?? I am pretty mechinically incliend but have never done this proceure before and think it would be necessary to get the most out of the oil change.

Sorry for all the questions but screwing this up would be a big fix ....

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casey_1 · #2 05-24-2005, 04:47 PM

Instead of adding a drain plug I'd use THIS method. It will change all of the trans fluid without a drain plug.

I'd be REALLY scared to drill into the torque converter. It's expensive if you make a mistake!

zapster · #3 05-24-2005, 05:49 PM

do not ever drill and tap a converter!..the chips will contaminate the fluid and the converter will be out of balance..so dont do it!

...zap!

dirtyd0g · #4 05-24-2005, 06:28 PM

I do it all the time for people, if you drill it in the vehicle and full of fluid no chips can go up into the converter. Sure is messy and you had better be good with a drill, there is the possibilty of drilling the hole out of round and ruining the converter.
Alan

max mitchell · #5 05-24-2005, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zapster

do not ever drill and tap a converter!..the chips will contaminate the fluid and the converter will be out of balance..so dont do it!

...zap!

NOT !

Bluegrass · #6 05-24-2005, 10:08 PM

Most single event operations (little experience) is a dangerious operation for many. The drill goes in to far and hits the turbine or some other problem occurs and you have an expensive repair to make.
Don't do it.
It's just as easy to pump the convertor dry with the engine at idle.
Those who have taken the chance or have done it under more favorable conditions are better equipped for sucess.

dirtyd0g · #7 05-24-2005, 10:26 PM

The location where the drain plug goes is right between the turbine and the lockup piston. There is a little forgiveness in it but if you get off too much you'll ruin it. Like I said I drill them I have drilled many of them. I do not recommend anyone without experience doing it unless you are prepared to remove the converter if you damage it.
Alan

swetich · #8 05-25-2005, 09:02 AM

What is everyones thougths on doing the flushing thru the cooler line like "CASEY1" suggests ??

casey_1 · #9 05-25-2005, 11:43 AM

I like it!!!

dirtyd0g · #10 05-25-2005, 01:51 PM

It's an okay setup you just have to make sure you shut it off as soon as you see air. I'd do that before I'd have someone run one of those stupid flush machines on my transmission that all the dealers are doing nowadays.
Alan

zapster · #11 05-25-2005, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by max mitchell

NOT !

hey max 'ol buddy whats happening?...zap!

zapster · #12 05-25-2005, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtyd0g

The location where the drain plug goes is right between the turbine and the lockup piston. There is a little forgiveness in it but if you get off too much you'll ruin it. Like I said I drill them I have drilled many of them. I do not recommend anyone without experience doing it unless you are prepared to remove the converter if you damage it.
Alan

alan...what size and kind of plug do you use? 1/8 pipe?..do you use the plugs with the square protrusion..or one with a allen in it?..and how thick is the converter mat where you drill ??...zap!

dirtyd0g · #13 05-25-2005, 06:50 PM

I get plugs identical to the stock one. They are 1/8npt I then put a little pink loctite thread sealer on them (that stuff is awesome). If you have a hole that just won't seem to quit leaking you can get the brass ones, they become a 1 time use only but they will seal a screwed up hole pretty well. I prefer steel ones because with a little thread tape or sealer you can reuse them many times.
Alan

zapster · #14 05-25-2005, 09:27 PM

thanks alan for your reply...i really dont think i'll be drilling any converters soon...but (as a machinist) when you drill with the converter full of fluid i see your point of no chips IN the converter...but after its all drained out and now you tap...would the excess chips(if any) have anything to do with anything? and as in my previous post ..how thick is the material where you drill? thanks...zap!

dirtyd0g · #15 05-25-2005, 09:48 PM

Like i said it's messy but i tap it with fluid still coming out of it. That way i can not have contaminates go in. The fluid slows nicely when you get the tap in bit, getting it started sucks. If you get ships int he converter they will probably get stuck on the lockup clutch and cause problems there.
Alan