Tranny Problems

BARNEY44 · #1 03-01-2005, 05:51 PM

MY 1992 F150 351 DOESN'T SHIFT WELL. IT SLAMS INTO GEAR. REVERSE IS THE WORST. I PUT IT IN REVERSE AND WAIT 2 SECONDS THEN IT SLAMS IN.. I REALLY DON'T WANT TO PUT A NEW TRANNY IN IS THERE ANYWAY TO FIX THE PROBLEM. -JB

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BARNEY44 · #2 03-01-2005, 05:52 PM

CHANGE THE FILTER

zapster · #3 03-01-2005, 05:58 PM

when it wont move (probably a c-6) in reverse and then slams itself in...i'm afraid its gone...had a van that did the same thing..clutch packs are wasted sorry ...zap!

dirtyd0g · #4 03-01-2005, 06:56 PM

It likely has an e40d in it.

BARNEY44 · #5 03-01-2005, 07:00 PM

WHATS AN e40d-COST TO FIX

dirtyd0g · #6 03-01-2005, 07:11 PM

e4od= electronic 4 speed overdrive transmission.
This is the tanker that is basically what the c6 became when they added overdrive and a lockup torque converter. Not to mention electronic controls. The e4od never was a very reliable transmission and the torque converters had major problems until 97. 89 units were the worst ever built, they slowly got better and better until they evolved into the 4r100. Now they have similarity's with the 5R110 transmission.
Hope that helps.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that transmission sucks. I can tell you how to make a good unit out of it but it can get very expensive.
Alan

BARNEY44 · #7 03-01-2005, 07:14 PM

WHAT WOULD BE THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE WAY TO FIX IT. JUNK YARD TRANNY OR I'M I LIKELY TO GET THE SAME PROBLEMS IN THE FUTURE

dirtyd0g · #8 03-01-2005, 07:51 PM

I dunno on that. Doing the job over and over usually costs more in the long run. I guess it just isn't the way I think things should be done. You need to find someone local knowledgeable enough on that transmission to build it properly. I won't map it all out for you but here are a few tips.
Torque converter.
You want a singleplate unit, your engine doesn't require a dual spring lockup piston,but it should definately be of the 97 up design. The stock front cover is weak, but expensive to replace. If the converter is built with the clutch surface taller than the top of turbine hub you shouldn't have front cover damage so a billet front cover isn't really required.
The fins in the pump are prone to coming loose, you definately want to make sure that piece is brazed or at least welded to secure them in place. Welding the turbine would be a good Idea as well. Brazing is better.
Those engines pull soo much better with low stall converters.
Ok enough with the part that probably confused the heck out of you. What I said was don't cheap out on the converter get someone who knows what they are doing to build it. You don't have to buy a $1000 unit to get a good one. You definately don't want some cheap $150 unit however.
Engine Computer
You need to take this unit out and send it to your ford dealer for updating or replacing. Those PCM's seemed to fail alot and some of them had programming problems.
Transmission Cooler
You need a pretty good size external unit run on the return side of the lines in conjunction with the radiator. Don't forget to flush or replace the radiator. The life of the transmission greatly depends on it's operating temperature.
Transmission
You should have the unit built with many later model components such as steel planetary's in place of the OE aluminum ones. I don't have a whole lot of info for you there. The best thing to do would be to get a Factory Tech unit (IMHO)

I hope that helps
Alan

Edit: The caps lock button is on the left just above the shift key, please turn it off. Thank you

zapster · #9 03-01-2005, 09:42 PM

thanks alan for clearing that up...zap!