I have put tons of time and money into my truck trying to get it the way I want, and I'm just about fed up because of the JUNK 5-speed. It has bucked and jerked and grinded for 45K mi. now and I am fed up. Just 4K mi. ago the slave cylinder went out and factory ESP wouldn't cover. Now it's grinding into 2nd. about once a day as if I let the clutch out half way into 2nd. In order to get smooth shifts, I have to ride out the clutch in every gear and it usually surges when I finally get it all the way out due to a little too much throttle. It's gotten to where I don't enjoy driving it at all, leave it parked on nights and weekends and would MUCH prefer to take the ol' lady's Sunfire out. I don't even wash the POS anymore.
My plan is to either take the HUGE loss in time and money and trade the POS in and start all over with damned payments, or drop another ton of money to try and make things right. I plan on getting the mythical "Hurst short throw" if they ever decide to sell them, and in 14 months it will be paid off. At that time I figure I can take the next two months payments and sink that into upgrading the tranny. Question is, are there aftermarket parts for these POS trannys to make them bullet-proof? I want a smooth, tight, positive shift with no bucking or grinding. I'd imagine that will require all new syncros, etc. Any idea how much I'm looking at spending? Are there any swaps for a decent tranny to go in instead? HEEELP!!! I want to enjoy my truck again. I may have to consider a damned car (Mustang?) with a hitch and trailor to haul my dirtbikes.
If you're referring to the infamous M5OD you are stuck. You may be able to get a good rebuild but the problem with these MOFO's is usually the hydro system. I have a 4.2 with the same piece of junk tranny, just had the good old slave/master rplcmnt @ 24,000. I have researched endlessly. It is hard to do a Temec swap because the shifter location changes drastically and you would have to fabricate cross members and get a custom drive shaft. The Ford ZF 5sp can be swapped it'll cost you about $3000-$4000 grand after all is said and done. In addition it is also a hydro clutch and a long throw shifter, so lack luster performance.
The best thing I've found for the M5OD is to bleed the SOB every oil change. They have a tendency to get air and moisture in the line. Also shift at high rev's and don't even try to power shift. Go with the long throw and ride those gears out.
Good Luck
And yes I have been looking at Stangs also! TREMEC"S
Your choices are limited by the transfer case. Even if you find a tranny you will need an adapter to connect to the T-case.
Amsoil or Redline Synthetic ATF will help a little. Keeping the Clutch system free of moisture will also help. Someone drained and switched to DOT 5 oil in the clutch hydraulic system. I feel your pain. I am on my 4th slave. The first one I paid for with a clutch change. I got a FORD one. A year later it was leaking so I got a free one. I STILL HAD TO CHANGE THE SOB. Well a year later it was leaking again. I bought an aftermarket from Carquest. Now it is showing signs of leaks. The clutch is also starting to go. On the positive side I can now R&R the slave in just under 8 hours in my driveway. The 3 inch body lift allows me to pull the tranny without having to remove the lower shifter.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD 5speed w/Modified Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, Troyer E-fans, Procharger @12psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
If you go to www.troyerperformance.com they have the "infamous" hurst 5 spd. shifter. they claim 30% shorter throws. all for only 215.00. i think i am going to put one in my 98.
Location: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F-150
Posts: 888
I have a 97 reg cab 4.6 5 speed and have had no trouble with it. I do agree that it leaves allot to be desired shift wise. I have not had to replace slave or clutch as of yet with 100,005 miles on the clock. It shifts into gear every time with little effort and i have never changed the fluid, (which i really should do). I like the shifetr from hurst and would anyone recommend it or has anyone put one in yet?. I hate to touch anything thats not broke but i guess i will change the fluid, what kind and how much goes in.
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1997 F-150 XLT 4X4 4.6 Shortbed REGULAR CAB, FLARESIDE PACFIC CLEARCOAT GREEN, 5-SPEED. WESTIN NERF BARS, EX-TANG SOFT COVER, BED LINER (FORD). Magnaflow SI/DO with Polished 4" Rolled S/S tips also 2002 toyota Rav4
I changed my fluid last year (70,000miles) & it made a huge difference as far as shifting.. While towing I would always try to drop her into 3rd real quick when on a hill & needing more torque, half the time I couldn't get it in & would loose all my momentum after changing the tranny fluid, never had that problem since & even kind of like it now My manual states it takes 3.75 qts of Mercon ATF.
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98 Ford F-150 ext. cab XLT 4x4 4.6L
5 Speed
K&N Air Filter
1715 Microtuner
Magnaflow Exhaust
My 2000 F150 has a little over 50k and I haven't had any problems with the 5 speed. I hope it stays that way. You mentioned bucking. I had that with my Wrangler and after the flywheel was ground smooth again the bucking was gone. It's nice to have a cool neighbor who happens to be a tranny guy
My 5 speed was getting pretty hard to shift. So I changed to synthetic ATF which didn't do anything at first but a week or so later it shifts fine now. Goes into gear when cold now.
It amazes me when people upgrade their trucks then complain when stock parts don't work right. For example, this post is started by someone who has put larger tires on their vehicle and then gets upset when his stock transmission/clutch go out. These larger tires put more strain and stress on all vehicle components, including transmission. Its harder on the clutch, synchros, and lubricant. Most problems encoutered when using the M5OD are due to slave cyclinder problems, not transmission problems. These slave cyclinder problems usually are caused by water entering the fluid and the eating away seals in the slave cyclinder or master cyclinder. Have you tried fixing the problem? A clutch replacement.slave cyclinder replacement is easy and fairly inexspensive if you do it yourself. Most items like that are not covered because driver error or excessive use usually leads to premature failure. I assume your truck was fitted with original tires when purchased (245/75R16 maybe?) and that is what the warrenty covered. Why should Ford pay to replace parts because YOU chose to put bigger tires on the vehicle. Bigger tires require more clutch slipage which generates more heat which kills stock parts. Next time you want to upgrade your daily driver consider the ramifications of doing so and don't blame Ford for your mistakes.
What put the burr under your saddle? You want a post on the M5OD POS tranny with stock tires? Here it is. I had stock tires on both my trucks and the POS tranny was replaced once on the 97 and repaired on the 2000. It is at best a pos. Ona light car or Ranger if you put any power to it the rear tires will spin. On a heavier truck parts will let go becasue the weight on the tires will casue the tires to stick. Something has to give. If you are lucky the cluth will slip and spare the tranny. You are correct about the slave cylinders. They leak. I would love to meet the engineer that designed that fiasco. The part is made of plastic.
I have been searching everywhere for the mythical "F150 short throw shifter"!!! Thanks for the information. I have the same issue with my truck where it is almost easier to take my wife's car than try to fight rush hour traffic with my 5-speed.
The 5-speed is the reason that I bought my p/u. I love it!!! I've had no problems with it (knock on wood) and it has runs fine. Have 92k and like others I have not changed transmission fluid. I have driven through city stop and go traffic many times and I still love the 5sp. Yes stop and go traffic is rare in my part of the country.
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Jeff Sedler
'99 150 4x4
4.6, Hurst 5-spd
Retrax Bed Cover
SuperCab XLT
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