Manual Clutch Problem

[jimfagan]

Well, just purchased an F-150 Supercab(1997) last week and already have my first real problem! Went to go work this morning and it seems that the manual clutch is not working. Transmission won't shift into gear without great resistance or grinding. I also noticed that a squeaking noise that the clutch was making when depressed when it was working is now gone. Obviously, I need to buy a service manual on the way home today, but I thought I might get a jump on it here. I found all the posts on the pitman squeak problem and cured that yesterday! Thanks. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to isolate the problem? Anyway to pinpoint if it's the master or slave cylinder? If so, what is involved in replacing these? A quick run down would be greatly appreciated. I noticed the the cylinders are not to expensive, and am hoping I can replace whatever is bad in my driveway! Any input on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. Jim

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[Roadie]

The squeaking noise when the clutch is depressed is probably the throwout bearing. They normally make a noise when the bearing in them gets dry or starts failing. They are only used when the clutch is depressed. One side of the bearing is motionless against the clutch lever and the other side is against the clutch which is spinning at the speed of the engine.

I have never had a vehicle with a hydraulic clutch but checking the fluid and inspecting for leaks should give you a clue.

[jimfagan]

If the squeak is the throwout bearing, I guess a hydraulic problem would be a good guess, as the squeak is gone, the bearing is obviously not being moved! Thanks for your advice. I checked the fluid. It is full. Suspect Hydraulics, have found out since my first post that the slave requires transmission pull. Hope that's not the cause. Anyone know a good test for the master? Thanks again. Jim

[ffdemoss]

Something to keep in mind...I thought these trucks had a throw-out bearing that was always in contact with the clutch. The squeaking you refer to maybe the spring of the slave cylinder moving. Have a buddy push the clutch while you watch through the acess port and see if the slave moves. If not, new slave or master cylinder is your future.

[wittom]

I recently had my clutch replaced and had the mechanic replace the slave cylinder while the transmission was down. The slave cylinder is actually a pretty simple piece. I don't think there is much that can go wrong with other than a leak. I guess a worn through out bearing could be an issue. The through out bearing is basicly an integral part of the slave cylinder. I suppose you could just replace the bearing but it would cost $60-$70 for the through out bearing and about $100 for the slave cylinder that has the bearing in it. The labor would be the same.

Another possible cause would be a bad 1-2 syncronizer. I think that this situation would give the symtoms you are having. These syncros are known to be sloppy even new. This situation sucks more than a slave cylinder because not only do you have to take down the transmission you also have to dig inside to get at the syncros.

I think if you get that service manual you should be able to get a good understanding of the possible causes. I know a service manual helped me out a ton.

Let us know that you find. There are a bunch of us who might end up in your shoes some day.

Good luck!

[JMC]

How does the pedal feel? Your Clutch is self adjusting and could be at the limit of its usage. Most of the problems are with the slave leaking. Open the access plug on the tranny and look for oil. Check the lines going from the master to the slave and also look for leaks on the inside of the cab where the rod goes into the master.
You should also bleed the system. If it fixes the problem you have a leak. Monitor the clutch fluid level. K eep it topped up. You may well see one morning that the oil level is quite low. If you have been topping it up you have a leak. Like it was said if the slave is leaking the tranny must be pulled to replace it.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

[Mr_Bentwrench]

most times if the slave is leaking to where you have no pedal make sure you got fluid in resivour and pump the clutch like crazy you should beable to build enough pressure to go a short distance just be careful. anytime you replace the slave its a good idea to replace the master too and while tranny is out maybe clutch.

i recently did my slave and master. i replaced every part of the hyd. system and then filled with dot 5 silicone brake fluid hoping it will last longer with dot 5. if you use dot 3 the clutch should be bleed once a year atleast. best time would be right before it gets cold gets the water moisture out. this water freezes then it rips the seals out. mine always failed when it was -10 F out but i never bled it out from time to time like i should have.

[jimfagan]

Thanks everyone!
Played with it again when I got home yesterday. Clutch pedal feels the same as always. No low fluid or leaks. I can shift the transmission into any gear when the engine is not running(you can actually feel the difference that the clutch makes when pressed then), but when the engine is running, it has to be forced and it grinds. I can start the truck with the clutch in and the transmission in any gear, but I feel a very slight movement of the truck when I do so. Is this starting to sound like a bad clutch?

[JMC]

A warped clutch disk or pressure plate will grab and cause the vehicle to creep forward. A leaking hydraulic system will not provide enough pressure to move the release bearing against the clutch pressure plate forks and release the clutch disk. This will also cause the vehicle to creep forward. The second scenario is the most likely. I don’t disagree with Bentwrench about replacing the clutch while the tranny is off. I have a leaking slave too and the tranny needs to be replaced. As soon as I have the $$ everything from the pilot bearing to the output shaft will be replaced. I will be using a Centerforce DF clutch.

JMC

[jimfagan]

Well here's the latest on my tranny/clutch problem. I called the car lot that I purchased the truck from and he was gracious enough to have it picked up and taken to a transmission shop, where they determined the clutch was bad.
He is having them replace the clutch, pressure plate, slave/bearing, and resurface the flywheel at his cost. He has offered to do this if I split the cost with him(my cost half would be $160.00). I thought this was a pretty good deal as the truck came with no warranty.
Is there anything else in there that I should have replaced while the transmission is out? Thanks again all for your input! Jim

[wittom]

That's all the stuff I had done to my truck. It sounds like your working with a good dealer. You should be all set.