Another towing question
#16
#17
The problem with this method though is that it assumes the springs on the front and rear are of equal strength. As you implied in your post, with the comment about "super stiff rear springs", I don't know that they are. So, the BEST method would be to weigh the truck on a scale that has separate platforms for the axles.
I found my truck's steering was pretty sensitive to the adjustment of the WDH.
- Jack
#18
For what it's worth, I just finished hauling two loads of pellet stove fuel (25 bags / 1000# per load) at rural highway speeds for about 15 miles each trip in my 2014 F150.
I found the steering to be noticeably "lighter" and more "twitchy" with that weight in the bed. The truck still tracked straight ahead, but the steering felt more "neutral", heading towards oversteer.
So, I think a heavy load on a trailer hitch without a Weight Distributing Hitch, or, an improperly adjusted WDH will definitely effect the steering.
- Jack
I found the steering to be noticeably "lighter" and more "twitchy" with that weight in the bed. The truck still tracked straight ahead, but the steering felt more "neutral", heading towards oversteer.
So, I think a heavy load on a trailer hitch without a Weight Distributing Hitch, or, an improperly adjusted WDH will definitely effect the steering.
- Jack
#19
#20
When I first got my 25' TT, I towed it from Raleigh NC to Orlando, FL without sway control with my 86SWB 2WD F150. It was very unstable. It took both hands on the steering wheel to keep it in my lane. Every time a big truck passed me on the interstate, I would cringe because it would pull me over and push me away. I was a road hazard. I had the WD hitch which did a great job of distributing the hitch weight over the entire truck but without sway control it was an accident waiting to happen. I made it safely back home to NC and immediately installed the dual cam sway control. Steady as a rock after that with those 1000lb bars working with the dual cam sway control. So, I would guess you don't have enough sway control for your trailer.
Really scary from my point of view. I always tried to give them as much room as I could when passing but always shake my head - watching the driver with a death grip on his steering wheel. I just couldn't imagine driving like that all day - and what a hazard.
I always want to commend folks like on the forum who take the time to learn and setup their trailers properly. Thank you!
#21
I purchased a new 2016 F150 SCrew, max tow, 3.5 eco, 3.55, short bed last month. I am pulling a 7500 lb GVWR TT with a Reese WD hitch and anti-sway bar that was installed and set up by the RV dealer. The hitch weight was weighed at 730 lbs. When I left the dealership, the truck acted like it was on an icy road. Pucker factor was high. I returned to the dealer and they took up one link on the chain. Better results but still feel like the truck is driving on one of those grooved roads. Not at all comfortable with the way the truck handles. Any suggestions?
How fast were you driving?
these are important details.
#22
Update. Hit the scales this past weekend. Weighed the truck and each axle without the trailer. Weighed the trailer. 6440lbs with our stuff loaded so far. TT GVWR is 7500lbs. Attached the trailer and re-weighed. Tongue weight was at 11%. The weight difference on the front axle didn't change that much. Took up another link in the WD hitch. That made a difference. Front axle now weighs 150lbs below the GAWR. TT pulled better. Only issue now is that the back end and front end of the TT sits a little high. May have to adjust the ball location.
Gary
Gary
#24
I THINK, you should raise the ball one step to correct that condition (check your Hitch owner's manual to be sure). At 11%, you are trying to transfer about 700# to your truck axles. That's a pretty heavy load. If your front axle is still 150# under the GAWR, you may still have too much load on the rear axle. What was its condition?
Again, you really want to see an equal increase on both vehicle axles, or as close to that as possible. And, of course, you don't want to exceed the GAWR on either. It will be a fairly delicate balancing act with your trailer size.
- Jack
Again, you really want to see an equal increase on both vehicle axles, or as close to that as possible. And, of course, you don't want to exceed the GAWR on either. It will be a fairly delicate balancing act with your trailer size.
- Jack
#25
Correction to my post. The back end of the truck and the front end of the TT sit slightly high or appear to be bowed up slightly when on level ground when I took up one link to shift more weight forward. Should the ball be lowered at this point? Currently looking for someone with a good knowledge of WD hitches in the Wichita area so I am safe on the road.
Gary
Gary
#26
Gary, here's a video on setting up Reese hitches:
It gives you the starting position of the ball, and, talks about setting up the angle of the ball. If your ball is at the correct height, it appears you would adjust the angle of the ball, which changes the distance the spring arms are from the trailer tongue.
And, it appears to me that Reese's instructions are somewhat different from the guidance Equal-I-Zer puts out, so used those given by Reese.
It's a bit of trial and error. Don't be afraid to experiment.
- Jack
It gives you the starting position of the ball, and, talks about setting up the angle of the ball. If your ball is at the correct height, it appears you would adjust the angle of the ball, which changes the distance the spring arms are from the trailer tongue.
And, it appears to me that Reese's instructions are somewhat different from the guidance Equal-I-Zer puts out, so used those given by Reese.
It's a bit of trial and error. Don't be afraid to experiment.
- Jack