Towing & Hauling

Stainless steel hitch

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  #16  
Old 07-29-2015, 12:30 PM
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The rust is most likely due to using 303 stainless, which does not retain it's proprties if welded. The hitch would have to be made from 304 or 316 stainless.
 
  #17  
Old 08-19-2015, 03:03 PM
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stainless isn't as strong structuraly as steel.

I have no issue with my hitch on my 2007 in montreal.
I have the truck rustproofed every year.
 
  #18  
Old 08-19-2015, 04:51 PM
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I just take the hitch out of the receiver when I'm not towing, and I store it in the garage when I'm home. No rust problems.

I spray the receiver insides with WD40 now and then.

- Jack
 
  #19  
Old 01-04-2016, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by araz2114
Nope, I want the hitch. The part that attaches to the truck. I can get a stainless ball mount no problem.

I am a Machinist and Tool and Die maker and for the life of me I can't understand why this isn't done. Stainless steel isn't that much more expensive than regular steel. Most of the cost of a trailer hitch is in the labour, insurance, lawers, and shipping. We can get rid of the powder coating cost.

Still want to find one... I may have to get one made custom... crazy!
Stainless steel is not as ductile as normal steel. Stainless steel is brittle and more prone to cracking as compared to steel. If you have strong jerking or lurching, or hard loads from your cargo, the SS can crack, whereas the normal steel can flex or even bend slightly.

Rolled or formed steel has a density of around 7850 kg/cu.m (around .2835 lbs/ci). Stainless steel can vary, depending on alloy composition, from 7480 to 8000. That's +1.02%/-1.05% variance. It isn't the weight, its the brittleness.

Also a reason why you should avoid stainless steel cutting tools or wrenches. You want flexibility. Stainless steel for precision work, rolled or formed steel for heavy duty work.
 
  #20  
Old 07-18-2016, 03:42 AM
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Thats it.
 



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