Shudder after lowering
#1
09-10-2002, 09:40 PM
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Garland, TX
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Shudder after lowering
Just finished having my 2002L lowered 2/4...Truck is now even and looks great!
A couple of problems--when starting to accelerate, the truck shudders until it reaches about 15-20 mph. Feels like the driveshaft might come thru the floor at any minute. Any ideas?
Second--I added what were supposed to be Bilstein drop shocks, but every time I hit even the smallest bump, I hear a "chirp"...I almost think Truck Performance Center sent me the exact shock I already had...
Any ideas are welcome.
A couple of problems--when starting to accelerate, the truck shudders until it reaches about 15-20 mph. Feels like the driveshaft might come thru the floor at any minute. Any ideas?
Second--I added what were supposed to be Bilstein drop shocks, but every time I hit even the smallest bump, I hear a "chirp"...I almost think Truck Performance Center sent me the exact shock I already had...
Any ideas are welcome.
#2
09-10-2002, 10:27 PM
Senior Member
RedFastnCool,
After the install did you have a wheel alignment? You are suppose to do that. If you did and it is still doing it, then the shuddering is the need for "shims" They look like metal thin wedges. Most kits come with two (one for each side). They usually come in 2, 4 or 6 degrees. My new (sold by private seller) DJM Kit came with 4 degree shims. You put the shims under the leafsprings on top of the bracket that set on the axle. The shim has a hole in the middle of it and you put the leaf bolt through that hole.
I did not install the shims at first. At a certain point at low speeds the whole truck vibrated and shuddered as well as when reducing speed at a certain point it would shudder. I put the shims in and no more shuddering.
If you have had an alignment and put the shims in and it is still doing the shuddering, then you need higher degree shims.
As to your shocks. Measure them. If I remember, the "drop shocks" should be shorter than stock shocks.
After the install did you have a wheel alignment? You are suppose to do that. If you did and it is still doing it, then the shuddering is the need for "shims" They look like metal thin wedges. Most kits come with two (one for each side). They usually come in 2, 4 or 6 degrees. My new (sold by private seller) DJM Kit came with 4 degree shims. You put the shims under the leafsprings on top of the bracket that set on the axle. The shim has a hole in the middle of it and you put the leaf bolt through that hole.
I did not install the shims at first. At a certain point at low speeds the whole truck vibrated and shuddered as well as when reducing speed at a certain point it would shudder. I put the shims in and no more shuddering.
If you have had an alignment and put the shims in and it is still doing the shuddering, then you need higher degree shims.
As to your shocks. Measure them. If I remember, the "drop shocks" should be shorter than stock shocks.
#3
09-10-2002, 10:59 PM
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#4
09-11-2002, 11:40 PM
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Pinion angle..................
What you've changed is the pinion angle of the rear end.
FActory has everything set at one spec. A person lowers the rear end, (any kit does it), and the pinion angle is changed. The U-joints are not equal as far as angle of attack on the driveshaft.
The shims are to re-locate the angle to more near 'what it was' before dropping/lowering the vehicle.
Front end alighment has absolutely nothing to do with the shuddering.
You can check the pinion angle fairly easy with a simple level. (small one, of course).
You measure the level /angle of the driveshaft yoke at the front of the driveshaft, (mark that number), and then the level (in degrees all this is, so you need a special type of level...(I forget the exact name), anyway, then the actual driveshaft level/degree, then the rear u-joint degree. They should be fairly close to each other, (front and rear).
It's late and I"m tired. I'll try to come up with a more exact explanation later............
A good reputable shop should be able to rectify your situation tho, by adding shims..............
FActory has everything set at one spec. A person lowers the rear end, (any kit does it), and the pinion angle is changed. The U-joints are not equal as far as angle of attack on the driveshaft.
The shims are to re-locate the angle to more near 'what it was' before dropping/lowering the vehicle.
Front end alighment has absolutely nothing to do with the shuddering.
You can check the pinion angle fairly easy with a simple level. (small one, of course).
You measure the level /angle of the driveshaft yoke at the front of the driveshaft, (mark that number), and then the level (in degrees all this is, so you need a special type of level...(I forget the exact name), anyway, then the actual driveshaft level/degree, then the rear u-joint degree. They should be fairly close to each other, (front and rear).
It's late and I"m tired. I'll try to come up with a more exact explanation later............
A good reputable shop should be able to rectify your situation tho, by adding shims..............
#5
09-13-2002, 12:12 PM
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