Ball Joints & Tie Rods

DarrenWS6 · #1 04-29-2012, 01:38 PM

Well time for round 2. Went through this on my 2004, now my 2007. My front right tire is wearing bad on the outside so I am going to get it checked out this week. To be prepared, I want to get parts ready so that when I find out what it is, I can get the parts replaced with products I provide, and don't get ripped off on the labor like I did with my old truck ( $930 for lower ball joints alone ). I am quite sure it is not the alignment as I had an alignment done by the dealership back in January. I had it done because that is when I started noticing the tire wearing more on the passenger side, but it was not pulling like it does now. Perfect timing for this to come up, was just a day or two away from ordering some exhaust components to finally get that done.

. Every time I plan a modification, it seems something else always comes up.

Everyone says Moog makes fantastic suspension parts for OEM replacement, seems the obvious route to take. Any one disagree?

I found on Moog's website they have the lower control arm assemblies with ball joint, and bushings for $280 per side. The best deal I have found online is $169.87 per side from Auto Parts Express. Does anyone know of anyone that charges any less with them in stock?

For some odd reason, Summit Racing has them priced ridiculously high, right about where Moog themselves do. I am going to attempt to make an offer for them to price match Auto Parts Express for my business. If they do not accept, is Auto Parts Express reputable and timely?

RockAuto.com has them for $191.79, I could also try to have them price match Auto Parts Express if Summit fails.

Now for the upper ball joint, I can not find replacement arms for the uppers, but I swore that Moog did make OEM replacements? Or is that for lifted suspension vehicles only?

Will it also be worthwhile to replace the tie rod ends at this time? ( Granted that those are not the issue, if they are, then I will just have to anyways ). I do not want to replace what I do not have to, however if it will involve ripping the entire front end suspension apart I will just get it all done. I don't know if it is possible without accessing the tie rod ends without removing the struts or anything else. I want to buy the Rancho QuikLift setup but at this time I will most likely order a 2" AS spacer kit to have installed since the struts will be out. Someday I will order the Rancho's, I can sell the AS to a friend who has an FX4 in the future so it seems worth while.

Hopefully this resolves quickly and that I only need to replace what needs replaced. At this rate I will need new tires and I am not too well prepared to buy new ones if I need to do all of this suspension parts. Meanwhile I guess I will start looking up tire prices for a new pair of Trail Graps for when this is all done.

TJL442 · #2 04-29-2012, 02:06 PM

I looked at Rock Auto and found the upper control arms, K80306 for the L/H and K80308 for the R/H. Is that what you were looking for? How come your wanting to change the lower arm assy instead of ust the ball joint? Hope that helped.

Tim

DarrenWS6 · #3 04-29-2012, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJL442

I looked at Rock Auto and found the upper control arms, K80306 for the L/H and K80308 for the R/H. Is that what you were looking for? How come your wanting to change the lower arm assy instead of ust the ball joint? Hope that helped.

Tim

I just wanted the upper arms if I needed the upper ball joints changed.

I know that the lower ball joints can be pressed out, but I figured this way it would get new bushings and an already installed ball joint. Is it better recommended I just provide those parts and have the dealership replace the ball joints from the original arms?

TJL442 · #4 04-29-2012, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

I just wanted the upper arms if I needed the upper ball joints changed.

I know that the lower ball joints can be pressed out, but I figured this way it would get new bushings and an already installed ball joint. Is it better recommended I just provide those parts and have the dealership replace the ball joints from the original arms?

Yeah I understand having the upper arms. I have a set in my garage with lower ball joints waiting to put them in some day. As far as the lowers go, I guess its a horse a piece with just ball joints or the whole arm but I would think it would be a little less money to just change the ball joint. The upper arms and lower ball joints is just over 200, then you need the labor. I don't know for sure, maybe ask the shop which is the better choice.

Tim

97isnotold · #5 04-29-2012, 03:17 PM

wow im in the exact same situation kind of. my right front tire has horrible wear on the outside so i replaced upper arms, lower balljoints and tie rod ends. I guess it was the messed up toe that was causing the wear since everything else was in spec.

DarrenWS6 · #6 04-29-2012, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97isnotold

wow im in the exact same situation kind of. my right front tire has horrible wear on the outside so i replaced upper arms, lower balljoints and tie rod ends. I guess it was the messed up toe that was causing the wear since everything else was in spec.

Dang, sorry to hear that! Tell you what though, I sure hope that that is all that is wrong with mine.

lakemarykid · #7 04-29-2012, 08:28 PM

Just curious have you done typical check for bad ball joints? IE: Jack the truck up and check for play in the tire? Grab top and bottom and see if there is play.

-Curtis-

DarrenWS6 · #8 04-29-2012, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakemarykid

Just curious have you done typical check for bad ball joints? IE: Jack the truck up and check for play in the tire? Grab top and bottom and see if there is play.

-Curtis-

I have not. I thought that was a check for bearing though. I will give it a try after work tomorrow afternoon. I have looked over everything and there are not any ripped CV boots, or ball joint boots and all that. The edge of the bushings look a little weathered on the lower control arms however.

lakemarykid · #9 04-29-2012, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

I have not. I thought that was a check for bearing though. I will give it a try after work tomorrow afternoon. I have looked over everything and there are not any ripped CV boots, or ball joint boots and all that. The edge of the bushings look a little weathered on the lower control arms however.

You may be right. I thought grabbing the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock was for bearings and 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock was ball joints.

-Curtis-

DarrenWS6 · #10 04-29-2012, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakemarykid

You may be right. I thought grabbing the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock was for bearings and 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock was ball joints.

-Curtis-

Either way I'll do it all even west coast time style

.

06yz250f · #11 04-29-2012, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakemarykid

You may be right. I thought grabbing the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock was for bearings and 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock was ball joints.

-Curtis-

I'm pretty sure
ball joints = up and down
tie rods = left and right

Gotts2BMe · #12 04-29-2012, 09:23 PM

jack up the truck under the lower control arm. Get a bar under the tire and try to lift it up. If it moves it is lower ball joint. Push and pull the top of the tire (12 oclock). If it moves upper ball joint. Grab the tire in the middle towards the front of the vehicle (either 3 or 9 depending on which tire, driver or passenger side) it will likely be outer tie rod, possibly inner. If you start to get movement at any time look to see where the movement is. upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, or wheel bearing. If it is the wheel bearing/hub assembly it will move at any position you push and pull the tire.

Honestly don't waste your time replacing the whole lower control arm if it is the lower ball joints. Just an fyi as well the lower ball joints on all 4x4 IFS suspensions will wear out first. Doesn't matter the make.

DarrenWS6 · #13 04-30-2012, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe

jack up the truck under the lower control arm. Get a bar under the tire and try to lift it up. If it moves it is lower ball joint. Push and pull the top of the tire (12 oclock). If it moves upper ball joint. Grab the tire in the middle towards the front of the vehicle (either 3 or 9 depending on which tire, driver or passenger side) it will likely be outer tie rod, possibly inner. If you start to get movement at any time look to see where the movement is. upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, or wheel bearing. If it is the wheel bearing/hub assembly it will move at any position you push and pull the tire.

Honestly don't waste your time replacing the whole lower control arm if it is the lower ball joints. Just an fyi as well the lower ball joints on all 4x4 IFS suspensions will wear out first. Doesn't matter the make.

I did all of this today and nothing budged. The wheel rotated when turned, that was about it. So I looked very carefully and the front right looks like it is veryu slightly turned out to turn while the drivers side does not look that way. I measured from front of tire to back of tire, there is a 1/4" to 1/2" difference. Problem discovered, it has to be the toe alignment. Earlier today I scheduled an appt. with the dealership for Wednesday to look everything over and repair the cause.