right now im sittin with a 04 lariat 4x4 with a 2.5" AS and 35" toyo m/t's and i need suggestions about lifting. either way im wanting 37's or 38's (preferably 38's) but i dont want to go any higher than an 8". My question is will 38's fit ok with an 2.5"AS and an 8" suspension or a 6" and my AS with 37's? PICS???? also does anyone have any good suggestions on a good 6" or 8" that is decently cheap? also note that i do the majority of my driving on the highway and i tow a boat a lot in the summer so i dont want a lift that is too firm or stiff. also i will be changing the gears (possibly adding a locker), getting a tuner, and intalling an intake so i would like some ideas or suggestions on those as well. right now im thinking 4:56 or 4:88 with an edge evo (only because no one around memphis will tune my truck), and a K&N cold air. sound good??

thanks ahead of time!

 

do you have pics with the 35's with your 2.5as? i plan on going with the bilstiens and maybe 35 cooper stt's

 

check out my gallery i got a few in there

 

I have the Procomp 6" with a 2.5" spacer for 8.5" lift and I'm running 37's with no problem. The procomp is fairly cheap and IMO a pretty good lift. Some will say go with a Fabtech. IT all depends how much you're wanting to spend on a lift. I paid $1500 for my lift w/ shipping and $200 for my 2.5" front spacer and AAL. They're are several options to go. An 8" Rize + 2" Bilsteins or a 6" lift + 3" BL will allow for 38's. You'll want at least 9" ift for 38's.

 

I have an 8" Rize(which actually measures 8.5") and 38x15.5x20's on 20x10's w/ 4.5" backspaceing. I have very minimal rubbing and it only comes at just about full lock when I hit a harsh bump. I did a decent amount of trimming but it works great. I'm getting ready to change out my rims to some 20x10's w/ 6" of bs and that will completely sure all my rubbing issues from what I can tell.

I'd suggest going with a Fabtech 6" in conjunction w/ your 2.5" spacer and throw on an AAL for the rear. The critical part to fitting 38's is the rim specs and tire width. Go w/ a 38x13.5" tire on a 10" wide rim with 5" bs and you will be golden if you do a small amount of trimming. You might be able to use a higher bs to get better clearance but I'm not sure. I know I can use the 6" bs on my lift only because they are 20's. If they were anything smaller, the tire would rub on the spring.

Also, know that anytime you change the width of the rim, you have to do a different baspacing in order to get the same fittment. Think about it this way. A 20x10 allows a 13.5" tire to hang over 1 3/4" on each side. A 20x9 allows the same tire to hang over 2 1/4" on each side. If you were to use the same bs on both rims, the 20x9 would actually have 1/2" less clearance to the suspension components. So if you need a 5" bs for a 20x10 then you need a 5 1/2" bs for a 20x9, a 5 1/4" bs for a 20x9.5 and a 5 3/4" bs for a 20x8.5. Basically, for every 1/2" decrease in width of rim, you need to increase backspacing by 1/4" with the same size tire.

Let me know if you have any specific questions about it and I'll be glad to help.

 

tlt008 is correct. Your wheel will determine what size lift you will need. I'm running an 11" wide wheel so 37's fit with ease on my truck, but 38's would envolve trimming.

There's a truck on cardomain who's running a 6" lift with a 3" body on 20x10 KMC Diesels and 38" Kumho's and rubs a little on the bottom fender flare.

My recomendation if you're wanting to run 38's is buy the Rize 8" and see if they fit. If they don't you can add the 2" Bilstein shocks or use your front spacer.

 

Rize is gonna cost you $2500 or so for the entire thing. I'd suggest going that route too. You're going to end up spending almost $2k if you go any other route so why not spend the extra $500 and get a true 8" set-up.

 

very true! i thought the rize was a whole lot more expensive but if i can find it for $2500 then i wont even think twice. but is there any problem with just keeping my 2.5" AS and the 8" rize with an AAL and fiting 38's? and would you happen to know where i can find a 8" rize for $2500?

 

I don't think you'll have a problem using the 2 1/2" spacer in conjunction w/ the Rize. I remember atleast 1 person doing it but I think 2. The only issue is that it throws off your ball joint and cv shaft angles. On a non-lifted truck it works out great. On a lifted truck w/ big 37's or 38's the pressure is magnafied on some parts due to the weight of the tires. It works but it puts more strain on those components. Most opt to bump it up 2" through various routes instead of 2 1/2. As for the back, if you want to go the AAL route, you need to get a 4" AAL which Skyjacker or Superlift makes. The Rize 8" acheives it's 8" of rear lift via a 6" block and 2" AAL. You won't need the 2" AAL portion of it if you opt to jump up to 10-10.5".

I bought all my stuff from Exalt Motorsports a few months ago and paid $2350 for the basic front kint kit, the brake lines and the rear blocks/u-bolts. They were going to give me the rear Bilteins for another $150 but i ended up going another route. Another member bought the same stuff + the 2" AAL and his choice of rear shocks for like $2500 from Top Gun Customz. These places don't advertise those prices but you can negotiate just about anything in life if you try. No matter who you call just remember that you don't need the 2" AAL so use that as a bargaining tool. Texanavitor has the Rize bumped up to 10" and 38x15.5x20's by the way.

 

so what should i do for the front then if i remove the 2 1/2" AS? i really dont feel like replacing a bunch of front end parts every year so i might as well come up with a good solution before a problem arises.

 

i think 39.5 would look nasty on there. not good for everyday driving though

 

I'd either buy a 2" spacer or, even better but slightly more expensive, go with the Bilstein adjustables set at the 2" mark. The Bilsteins are a better route because not only does it give you the desired lift, it gives you new struts and it allows you some adjustability because they have a 1" and 0" setting also. You can just set them on the 1" mark which will give you enough clearance for the 38's(w/ the right bs and width), lower the wear rate on your front end stuff and give you a slight rake so that it doesn't sag when you tow.

I have a set of custom leaf packs that gave me 10"+ of lift. I dropped the front end of my truck down to the normal 8" Rize height and left the back at the 10"+ height for about 2 weeks. I just got around to dropping the rear down 1 1/2" or so today but with the rear up aout 2" higher it wasn't even that noticeable to me. Now the rear sits about 1/2" or so higher than the front. Still no clearance issues other than what I described above. I'll have my new rims on in about 2 weeks I guess(after I paint them and get the tires switched over) then I should have no rubbing ever!

 

He'd need to go w/ 12" of lift to fit 39.5's. And you're right they wouldn't be good for everyday driving. Specially because they wont fit in the wheel wells so he'd have no flex capabilities and most likely wouldn't be able to tow.

 

very true; 39.5's crossed my mind actually but i think once you get to 37's you lose the ability to tow and thats what i need my truck for. i just want it to look good but still be able to tow my boat around with no problems

 

In regards to gearing I would go 4.88 since you will be towing, it will also handle those 37's no problem.