BTW were you at the monster jam a couple weeks back? I defiantly saw the black superduty there. I don't know how the chick there was climbing in and out of it.
trimble, have you talked to Zach? (zabeard) He has all kinds of formulas and excel spreadsheets to help in suspension geometry. He used that kind of stuff the 2nd time he SASed his ranger and redid the suspension. He is very helpful and knowledgeable, might be something to look into.
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Problem number 1: Tires measure out to 36.5" without air in them some im geussing the biggest they will get is 37.5. The reason this is a problem is that i have 5.13 gears and not sure how that will compute for highway RPMs
Problem number 2: The low pinion D60 is causing some problems. The front drive shaft will be pretty sharp of an angle. To fix this we will be either; Run a CV joint on the front Dshaft, Clock the transfer case, or rotate the diff, or run a devorced t-case, or run dual t-cases.
now im looking for trades for bigger tires. I would like at least a TRUE 40" tire.
The lowest point of the fender (the back part of the fender flare) will be at least 40" high.
heres the pics got more coming monday:
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"Project 1ton150" build thread coming soon keep an eye open
Problem number 1: Tires measure out to 36.5" without air in them some im geussing the biggest they will get is 37.5. The reason this is a problem is that i have 5.13 gears and not sure how that will compute for highway RPMs
Problem number 2: The low pinion D60 is causing some problems. The front drive shaft will be pretty sharp of an angle. To fix this we will be either; Run a CV joint on the front Dshaft, Clock the transfer case, or rotate the diff, or run a devorced t-case, or run dual t-cases.
Problem one: Ouch ! They were supposed to be 40" tires ?? My ole Ground hawgs measured out to just a tad over 39.5" tall. Sucks man. But the gearing wont be an issue I wouldn't think. Might be a tad high, but the 4.2 will do fine. Adjust your speed, you know how to drive, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just start looking for a good trade, like you said. Or sell them, save up for some other ones. Something.
Problem 2: This really isn't much of a problem. I would talk to the shop, and see about cutting the knuckles, and rotating the dif. See how much extra they are going to charge you for that. It is by far the best bet for your situation. Dual t-cases would be awesome, always recomend them, but I doubt it will give you enough room to be fine. Maybe dual cases plus a cv joint front driveshaft. Or a double cv front DS. STAY away from divorced t-case. Bad news ! Being divorced lets it twist and move with the torque under load. Rips frame mounts off, explodes, twists, binds, etc etc etc. Bad. Samurai's come stock with the divorced t-case, once you start getting more and more seriouse of a build, you begin looking for a dual case, solid mount right away. Mine is still currently divorced, and you should see the bracing and extra mounting I have, and it still gives me trouble (geared extremely low) !! The t-case is a torque multiplier, you want it as solid as can be.
If it were my truck, I would look into clocking the front diff, cut and turn the knuckle, and look into running some kind of dual case setup. The dual cases can come later, if need be. Thats my 2 cents anyways.
Last edited by MercedesTech; 03-05-2009 at 12:37 PM.
so you do need a cut and turn after all. kind of thought you would since the wheel base on your truck is pretty short for how much lift your going with. cut and turn shouldn't be to much.
have you found any disc for the rear axle yet?
can't remember if you said what wheels your using yet, but have you decided?
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