I have an 2005 XLT with the basic stage I 6in. lift. with 17in moto metals on 35x12.50 pro comp xtream allterrians. I want to be able to run 37's and was thinking about putting coil spacers and add-a-leaf. I dont want the 8inch RIZE though. Will this work?
I'm thinking you mean coil-overs not spacers since you already have coil-spacers (you have the stage 1 and you don't really want to be stacking spacers on top of spacers), but yes it will work with the adjustable coil-overs (raised up 2") or you could keep your current 6" spacers and get a set of bilstein 5100's designed for 0-2" of lift and put at the 2" setting when you install them. Would get the height you need to clear 37's and would be cheaper then the coil-overs. I would also recommend getting a fabtech 5" rear block or pro comp 5.5" rear block to replace your stacked blocks (pro comp 2.5" with the stock 2")that you have right now, plus the AAL, so you'll sit level (or very close to it).
another idea i have fiddled around with. just dont have the money at the moment.
get bilstein shocks for a 6" lifted truck. struts longer and you mount your coil on it. so it gets away the big spacer used for the lift. then you can use a 2" spacer on top of that and not have to worry about the spacer ever failing you. just another idea since your going to be spending the money anyway.
i think thats how it was explained to me. someone im sure will notice if its wrong and correct it tho.
Yep, well aware of that route too but those shocks are a little more expensive and then you have to spend another 100 or so for a leveling kit. The spacer won't ever fail (maybe if you're jumping your almost 6000 lbs truck but by that standard you're going to fuc* up whatever shocks your running and god knows what else) although it's quite entertaining to see people constantly say it will and don't have a lift that uses a spacer let alone off-road with it. I recommended what I did because it's still cheaper (by about 200) then what you mentioned and much cheaper then coil-overs and will do the job just as good as the others
Yes it does have the factory bump stop cast into it. They work great, but after you install it will lift the back considerably. If you were to add another add a leaf, you would also have to purchase the drive shaft spacer to push the yoke back in the tranny. Lots of people forget to get this!
Good Luck.
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2004 F150, HELRAZR, 6"ProComp,5.5 lift blocks, ProComp Traction Bars and Skid plates, Rear axle truss and Trick Flow cover with stud girdle, 35" BFG's with AR racing wheels. Custom Diamond plate interior. Edge and Fram Boost cold air. Billet tow bar and billet dash plaque. Dual exhaust with MagnaFlow.Westin Bull Bar with PIAA's, Windows Blacked out, Bed cover, Alpine TV, Timbrens.
I was just curious if it was tapered or not. That would have saved me from having to shim my leaf-pack.
Right now, I'm running a "5.5" inch RCD block and and add-a-leaf. Actually, the block is only 5 inches. But it isn't isn't tapered, so I had to shim it. I put a shim between the block and leaf spring, which added about another .5 inch.
The problem with a tall, non-tapered block is that they'll increase your wheelbase by about an inch.....which doesn't help driveshaft length. After I shimmed the block so it sits vertical and added the add-a-leaf, I actually have MORE slip yoke in the transfer-case than I did with the block alone. This is partially because my pinion is rotated farther up that what it should be. I have a nearly zero driveshaft angle at the pinion. It "should" vibrate.....but doesn't. So I seem to be alright without the driveshaft spacer. My yoke is only about .75 inches farther out than stock. I could see how it could be a problem with the shorter supercrew driveshaft.
Hey thanks Jspeers!! I don't have a gallery cause I haven't had a chance to wash my truck since I got my wheels........had to wait nearly 2 months for them. But when I get it cleaned up, I'll try to snap a few more pics. For now, this is all I got:
Linear Mode
