Is this why body lifts have a bad rep??
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I had an older guy (and self-proclaimed mechanic) ask me why I spent a couple hundred on my lift. I, of course, told him it was cheaper than a susp. lift and I don't go offroading that much. He looked at me goofy and started telling me all about how I could just buy some hockey pucks and get it done for under $50. And here I thought he was joking :o
#13
Yeah, hockey pucks are one of the old-fashioned cheapie body lifts. If you use good regulation pucks, they'll be a good quality vulcanized rubber...but the cheap ones, lord only knows what they're made of.
A single stack of regulation pucks will work just fine but will only get you a 1" lift. Don't double- or triple-stack them...you'll get too many shear points on the bolts and it'll be weak. Also, don't use the cheap Wally-World pucks since, as Jason9301 mentioned, they can split on ya and fail too.
Besides that, enough regulation pucks to do a body lift will cost just as much as a proper lift kit anyway so might as well do it right the first time.
If you live near a scrap yard, go round up a chunk of solid 3" steel shaft material, cut your blocks, and drill em. Once in place, weld them to the body mounts on the frame and use the stock rubber insulators on top of them. This is how we did a 3" lift on my '76 F150 and a friend's 76 Chevy 1/2 ton. Never had one even come close to bending or breaking and both truck got used hard. That Chevy wound up getting balled into a tree a few years after my friend sold it...the body lift was still intact even though the frame and body looked like h***.
A single stack of regulation pucks will work just fine but will only get you a 1" lift. Don't double- or triple-stack them...you'll get too many shear points on the bolts and it'll be weak. Also, don't use the cheap Wally-World pucks since, as Jason9301 mentioned, they can split on ya and fail too.
Besides that, enough regulation pucks to do a body lift will cost just as much as a proper lift kit anyway so might as well do it right the first time.
If you live near a scrap yard, go round up a chunk of solid 3" steel shaft material, cut your blocks, and drill em. Once in place, weld them to the body mounts on the frame and use the stock rubber insulators on top of them. This is how we did a 3" lift on my '76 F150 and a friend's 76 Chevy 1/2 ton. Never had one even come close to bending or breaking and both truck got used hard. That Chevy wound up getting balled into a tree a few years after my friend sold it...the body lift was still intact even though the frame and body looked like h***.
#14
I have seen 2x4's cut to make body lift "blocks", seen 1/2" plywood used for wheel spacers, maglights taped to the hoods of trucks as makeshift headlights and the list goes on. Give the man a chance to save $50 but risk his life in the process and its only a matter of time before someone takes ya up on it
#15
An old neighbor of mine has an old 4x4 chevy, (dont know the model), body lifted on 4x4" box steel. They were cheap mild steel, rusted to hell, and I dont think he used graded bolts. Anyways he had it up too high to use his 4x4 so he just dropped the front drive shaft from his transfercase, Slapped 44" tires on it and used blue spray paint to cover his gray primer with "Cookie Monster" on the rear fender and "44"" on the door, much like the "donks" and their 24"
Thats why body lifts get a bad rep....thrillbillies
Thats why body lifts get a bad rep....thrillbillies