Un bolting lower "A" arm from frame.
#1
05-20-2008, 04:00 PM
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Un bolting lower "A" arm from frame.
I was thinking I may do this in order to bend back the metal flange near where the bolt connects the front A arm to the frame. A small sledge hammer should bend it back after a few good whacks. I must have hit something off roading and the flange is slightly bent back and is rubbing on the A arm.
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05-20-2008, 04:05 PM
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#3
05-20-2008, 04:25 PM
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Wow. I just read that myself and it made no sense...LOL.
I just took a couple pictures. Its the front bolt on the lower A arm. I am asking if I can unbolt the lower A arm without anything flying apart. In order to bend that flange back I need to remove the lower A arm so I can whack the flange from behind.
I just took a couple pictures. Its the front bolt on the lower A arm. I am asking if I can unbolt the lower A arm without anything flying apart. In order to bend that flange back I need to remove the lower A arm so I can whack the flange from behind.
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05-20-2008, 04:30 PM
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05-20-2008, 04:38 PM
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#6
05-20-2008, 04:42 PM
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just call the place that did the alignment and say that they didnt tighten the bolt enough and it came loose, they will be willing to work with you, mine actually did come loose and they did it for free
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05-20-2008, 04:47 PM
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#8
05-20-2008, 06:42 PM
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Alignment- fix the frame cup
The pictures you posted of the front frame cup did not show any alignment cams on the bolt. How did the shop align your truck? Also was the damage done after the alignment?
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
#9
05-20-2008, 07:03 PM
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The pictures you posted of the front frame cup did not show any alignment cams on the bolt. How did the shop align your truck? Also was the damage done after the alignment?
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
#10
05-20-2008, 07:15 PM
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Alignments at the assembly plant are done prior to frame flip (no more pit). The machine that does it is huge!
Alignments at Ford dealers must use the cam bolts for service.
Some after market shops can use straps to pull the two LCA's together. But may have a problem holding torque as they try to adjust them around. (your came loose right?) Depending on model year, there is a reaction clamp pad as well. That other little hole in the picture in this thread is used for the clamp.
There is always several ways to do things, but usually only one right way.
Them cam bolts can be purchased at some auto parts stores and your Ford dealer.
Alignments at Ford dealers must use the cam bolts for service.
Some after market shops can use straps to pull the two LCA's together. But may have a problem holding torque as they try to adjust them around. (your came loose right?) Depending on model year, there is a reaction clamp pad as well. That other little hole in the picture in this thread is used for the clamp.
There is always several ways to do things, but usually only one right way.
Them cam bolts can be purchased at some auto parts stores and your Ford dealer.
#11
05-20-2008, 07:33 PM
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The pictures you posted of the front frame cup did not show any alignment cams on the bolt. How did the shop align your truck? Also was the damage done after the alignment?
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
In any case. Do Not un-bolt the joint yourself. Like another reply said, you will need to align after that. And yes the alignment does require cam bolts to be done correctly.
So If your truck does still run true. Try to just bend the flange out of the way with that hammer you talked about. Be careful not to hit the aluminum control arm. You would only need to bent the metal so it does not contact the arm through travel. The steel frame scraping the aluminum control arm is not a good idea.
As far as a lower skid plate there. No chance, like you said, that point is already the lowest point up front.
I do not really know what you are talkign about but I think they align it with by adjusting the tie rods. All I know is that it is aligned now and runs fine.
#12
05-20-2008, 07:37 PM
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yeah thats how they adjust the toe in/out but to adjust camber and caster they have to adjust the bolt you are wanting to take out
#13
05-20-2008, 07:44 PM
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BigMan, I wouldn't let that frame cup ride on the aluminum lower if it were my truck.
Don't worry though, it will wear a groove in the arm and make it's own clearance eventually. Still not a good idea. Hammer that bad boy out if the way!
And yes, a full alignment is more than tie rod adjustments.
Don't worry though, it will wear a groove in the arm and make it's own clearance eventually. Still not a good idea. Hammer that bad boy out if the way!
And yes, a full alignment is more than tie rod adjustments.
#14
05-21-2008, 02:11 AM
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i had my frame cup look very similar to this.... but it was the result of jacking my truck up one day..... so now i dont put the jack there anymore.
as for the whole alignment issue..... yes, the shops have to use straps/come alongs to get the camber/caster adjusted..... the aftermarket bolt kits just make the whole process easier. i do have a set for sale by the way.... i took them out when i installed my lift kit.
as for the whole alignment issue..... yes, the shops have to use straps/come alongs to get the camber/caster adjusted..... the aftermarket bolt kits just make the whole process easier. i do have a set for sale by the way.... i took them out when i installed my lift kit.
