Keep in mind that I really don't like to do things half assed, hence the equipment I plan to buy. However, I do have a budget, so let's see what I can come up with. Also keep in mind that in NJ I can't lift more than 9" above stock, which is the reason I'm going with a 6" and not an 8" lift.

For the suspension components themselves...

• Fabtech 6" lift stage 1 kit
• Camburg adjustable coilovers (for the 6" lift) for front
• Sway A Way RaceRunner resevoir shocks (14" extension)

Wheels and tires

• American Eagle 064 20x10 (4 5/8" of backspacing)
• 35" Nitto Terra Grapplers.. forget the exact size
• 4.56 front and rear, of course...

Some options that I'll probably be adding later because I don't want to spend the money now:

• Detroit Locker for rear diff
• Eaton E-locker for front diff
• Mag-Hytec diff covers and tranny pan
• Camburg upper control arms
• Fabtech steering stabilizer (if the steering sucks)

The 6" lift w/ the 35" tire would give me about 7.75", and then I can use the adjustable coilovers to push me closer to my 9" max. I also may either add an AAL or block in the rear to push the rear up a bit more (looking for some input and options on that).

Any major issues with this setup I should be looking out for? This is my first attempt to lift a truck, and I know there is a plethora of knowledge here that will stop me from making a stupid noob mistake.

 

Sounds like a great plan.

 

Sounds like a good plan and a "budget" a lot of people would like to have

 

Why all offroad stuff like[*]Detroit Locker for rear diff[*]Eaton E-locker for front diff if going to get a/t's ? get some tires if going to do all that

 

You're right... I going w/ the Toyo M/T's instead. I wasn't thinking last night.

 

Thats more like it! Toyo m/t is the best mud tire out right now.

 

Uggh I may have some issues, silly NJ laws again.

I'm running 20" OEMs right now, and NJ requires you to have a fender that covers the full tire tread. So doing the math, it would seem if I went with the eagle 064's 20x10 and 4.6, I would be sticking out about 3.5" further than stock wheel plus the additional 1.5" of the 12.5" tires? Is my math correct?

Basically, since I need to have the fender flairs to cover the additional tire, and since I can only seem to find flairs that add 2" coverage, I wouldn't be able to cover a 10" rim, at least I think?

I don't know the exact measurements of the 20" rim, but I know I read the OEM wheels were 7.5 w/ 5.5 of backspacing. Is it the same for the OEM 20s?

 

i think fender flares ruin the look of a nice wide stance imho

NJ laws suck, do what you want though, it will be worth it in the end.

as for inspections, see if you can "work out a deal" with a local gas station

i ve had tints on the front windows for over a year , with no problems

 

Welp, it's a bit different. Lifts over 4" require a special inspection that is only done at the MVC and only done at about 4 of the state wide sites. This needs to be done basically after the lift is done. They give you an additional sticker with your allowed height, etc. Can't just go to a local station, unfortunately.

I think I'm going to have to go with a 20x8.5 or 20x9 wheel with 4.5-5" backspacing, then with the wheel I can come in about 2.5" beyond the current tire which I would be able to cover with the bushwacker fender flares.

Kind of looking for confirmation my measurements are correct, I am assuming a lot about the OEM 20's.

 

heck ya ! as long as you only stay on the street !

Their super hard compound make it so they don't "self clean" all too good. The gum up pretty quickly then basically turn into big ole donuts.

Great tire for a weekend warrior, who will be seeing a lot of pavement (like these trucks) but by far NOT the "best" tire out in the off road community ! Just so ya know

 

x2 on that!