Lower Ball Joints

[twintips_17]

How do you remove the lower ball joints without taking the control arm off and removing the torsion bar? Can it be done?

[Ford Truckin']

Did you drive out of that unassisted?

[01Screw17]

yeah, i believe so, all you need to do is just take the cotter pin out of the lower ball joint's nut that is on the bottom. then just hit the part of the control arm that houses the ball joint, you may need a pretty big hammer, depending on how long its been since it has been replaced(sometimes they can get pretty hard to dislodge). once you give it a coulple of good licks, it should just fall apart from the control arm.

[Tat2ski]

Is it common to have the lower ball jts wear out before the upper ball jts? I have the same year truck with over 100k, and a shop said my lower jts were worn out, but my upper jts were ok.

[Rave Crusader]

On my 2000 4x4 the same thing happened, but it was not long after having the buttoms replaced I had to have the tops replaced as well.

[1bad86vmax]

On my 2001 , I had to get a ball joint press , to press them out and press the new ones in . You will never get them out with a hammer . You Must first remove the large C-clip .

[Stripersteve]

somewhere on this site there is a good article telling how to do it, it's still a pain though, I did them on my 2000. Had to let the tension off the torsion bars and disconnect the tie rod, remove the spindle nut and pull the hub assy off, to get the axle shaft out of the way. Then press them out........ have fun

[Tat2ski]

I have been reading several threads about the ball joints, and one said if you properly secured the front suspension you dont have to remove the tension from the torsion bars. Can the lower ball jts be removed without doing this?

Also, I looked at the how to thread with pictures and it showed the removal of the hub, caliper, knuckle, and tie rod end. In my tear down manual all it says is to remove the tension from the torsion bars, disconnecting the stabilizer bar links, and securing the coil springs. Is there steps that dont have to be done for certain years, i.e. 1998 differs from 2000 F150s?

Anybody that has done this for different years of F150's could you chime in and clear up the confusion?

[M4Madness]

Originally Posted by Tat2ski

Is it common to have the lower ball jts wear out before the upper ball jts? I have the same year truck with over 100k, and a shop said my lower jts were worn out, but my upper jts were ok.

Yes. I just had my lower ball joints replaced last week on my recently-purchased '99 4X4. A couple of days after I bought it, it started squeaking badly, and it turns out that both lower ball joints were very sloppy. Luckily the tires hadn't suffered wear from them yet. I was told by the mechanic that the top ones were fine, and seldom need changed.

I paid $64 for a pair of TRW's with a lifetime warranty and $100 labor to have them both installed. I feel that I got quite the bargain at $170 for the hassle that the shop had in breaking the old ones loose.

[Galaxy]

Originally Posted by Tat2ski

Also, I looked at the how to thread with pictures and it showed the removal of the hub, caliper, knuckle, and tie rod end. In my tear down manual all it says is to remove the tension from the torsion bars, disconnecting the stabilizer bar links, and securing the coil springs. :

I'm concerned about what manual you have since if you have torsion bars you don't have coil springs also!!

You guys remember this also...if you have the truck jacked up by the frame so that the suspension is hanging free under it's own weight there is very little tension on the torsion bars. If that still concerns you, then simply back off the keyway bolt. You don't have to completely remove it or the bar, but with the bolt backed full out while the suspension is hanging then there's definately almost no tension on it. Once you separate that knuckle from the lower ball joint, the only component under any tension anyways is the lower control arm. Where's it gonna go?? Nowhere. If anything, just thinking outloud, with the suspension hanging and the torsion bar still in place, that should hold that lower control arm pretty darn steady for when you start working on the joint removal.

[twintips_17]

Originally Posted by Galaxy

I'm concerned about what manual you have since if you have torsion bars you don't have coil springs also!!

You guys remember this also...if you have the truck jacked up by the frame so that the suspension is hanging free under it's own weight there is very little tension on the torsion bars. If that still concerns you, then simply back off the keyway bolt. You don't have to completely remove it or the bar, but with the bolt backed full out while the suspension is hanging then there's definately almost no tension on it. Once you separate that knuckle from the lower ball joint, the only component under any tension anyways is the lower control arm. Where's it gonna go?? Nowhere. If anything, just thinking outloud, with the suspension hanging and the torsion bar still in place, that should hold that lower control arm pretty darn steady for when you start working on the joint removal.

We were able to get it done. We disconected the CV axle and slide it out at teh same time we were able to slide tht threaded part of the ball joint out. Then it was just simple matter of taking the ball joint out with the correct press tool and the reverse to go back in. If any one wants details let me know. Sorry it took me so long to get back. Took a trip.!!!

[R1Jester]

I just got my ball joints today, picking up the tool this week and will be replacing uppers and lowers this weekend. I'll try to remember to take a bunch of pictures. Any requests, post them up now!